El Caballo Posted January 18, 2018 Posted January 18, 2018 As decals age, they get that gold-ish color on the clear portions and become brittle and flake off sometimes. Has anyone here used clear over the decals and had any problems with it? I'm wondering if there have been chemical reactions or anything like that.
geemoney Posted January 18, 2018 Posted January 18, 2018 I have shot PPG concept clear over a bunch of decals, no problems as of yet.
espo Posted January 18, 2018 Posted January 18, 2018 The problems with the aging decals are an unfortunate problem. Using a Clear Coat over them has proven to be about the best solution. I have only used either Tamiya or Model Master clears with no problems. Many others here prefer sometimes "Hotter" paints and they would be better able to tell you of any problems if that is your choice.
Steamboat Posted January 18, 2018 Posted January 18, 2018 I've used Tamiya lacquer, Model Master clear enamel, and Future for clear coat. I've gotten yellowing decals when using the Mode Master enamel, but never with the Tamiya lacquer. With both Tamiya lacquer and Future, I've had problems with the decals wrinkling, but only occasionally. It's still too early to tell whether Future allows yellowing as I've only been using it for about a year.
Dirkpitt289 Posted January 18, 2018 Posted January 18, 2018 Before you clear your decals make sure you place them in sunlight (I tape mine to a window that faces DIRECT sunlight). After a day or so you will see that the yellow is gone or at least BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH close. Its at this pint you can spray them with clear. I use two or three LIGHT coats of Testors Decal Bonder. Let the decals dry for at least 24 hours. I've heard people do less but I like to be sure. Better safe then sorry. They of course when you go to use the decals to use a new sharp blade and trim as close as you can to the decal. When dipping in water I see some people drop the decals in and leave them tell they separate from the paper. I don't like that and have had issues. I just dip to get them completely wet and then rest them on the side, wait and see if they can easily be pulled free from the paper after few minutes. If not I dip again and repeat till the decal breaks free of the paper. Lastly after the decals have completely dried to the model I would clear coat the entire model. This helps prevent silvering, yellowing and pealing later on I hope this helps.
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