Any epoxy out there worth a damn?

[KENNEDYJR]

I just dont have any luck with 2 part epoxies. I used to buy the 2 in 1 applicator type but those always made a mess of things.

So I switch to the 4 oz hobby lobby type in separate bottles. I cant use more than an inch out of the bottle before the activator (?) dries up and the set becomes useless. Just a waste of money.

I cant use super glue for everything - what do you guys use?

[clamm]

I just dont have any luck with 2 part epoxies. I used to buy the 2 in 1 applicator type but those always made a mess of things.

So I switch to the 4 oz hobby lobby type in separate bottles. I cant use more than an inch out of the bottle before the activator (?) dries up and the set becomes useless. Just a waste of money.

I cant use super glue for everything - what do you guys use?

Kennedy Jr: I use Epoxy most, Tamiya bottled second, Tenex third, CA 4th, and GS Hypo 5th, I'd say. Each one has its own tricks to use it successfully. But I think you shouldn't give up on Epoxy yet.

I couldn't get Epoxy to work either, but after reading this forum and emailing some folks and reading a bit I decided to give it a shot and guess what after some messing around and experimenting EPOXIES REALLY RULE!!!!

--Get Devcon 5 minute epoxy. Devcon is really good! Don't get anything else, don't get the generic Ace hardware 5 minute one for instance. For me that Devcon 5 minute one is the very best. It comes in plastic bottles that don't get yucky/slimey after a few uses. It's easy to mix and store. It's not too expensive. It dries clear.

You can order it online if your local hardware store doesn't carry it. That's what I ended up doing. It's worth the extra trouble.

--Get a 8 1/2 x 11 piece of white paper, like what you'd use at work in a printer. It can already have been used to print something (better for the environment to use something you'd otherwise pitch)

--Put equal size beads of the 2 parts right next to each other, and then with a toothpick stir them together "with vigor". The beads don't have to be exactly the same size but they do need to be pretty close. The beads can be small--you can't use much devcon in 5 minutes so you'll learn to make your beads the right size after you use it for awhile.

--Don't put your parts on the white paper, ever. That way you won't accidentally drop your parts in some epoxy. I usually work with 2 sheets on my bench--paper for mixing/applying glues and paper towel for the parts, and the two never meet.

--Prep your parts really well! You **must** remove all chrome and paint before you join because Devcon won't stick to either (especially chrome--it really doesn't stick to that well at all). In fact, I have found this for pretty much every kind of glue, except maybe CA + accelerator in some cases.

You can read more about Devcon on my model car blog

http://modelcarbuilder.blogspot.com

Have fun!!!

[Fuel Coupe]

the best epoxy I have found is at Hobby Lobby. its a five minute type and It works great for me. I mix it a bit "hot" and find that works best....

[Harry P.]

All brands of epoxy work the same, via chemical reaction between part A and part B. There is no "better" brand than another. As long as you mix it correctly–equal parts A and B–they all work just fine.

I use all sorts of epoxies, 5 minute, slow setting, etc., and I use all brands...Devcon, Loctite, Elmers and many more.

I prefer the type that comes in a 2-part plunger, where you automatically get the right amount of A and B when you press the plunger. Wipe the tip(s) off with a paper towel after you dispense the stuff and replace the cap. I've never had any problem with the stuff "drying up", because it can't! Epoxy will only "dry" when parts A and B come in contact with one another, and the 2-part plunger dispenser prevents that from happening.

Like I said, I've used many different brands, and they all worked perfectly for me. I've NEVER tried a brand that didn't work well. If you're having a problem getting epoxy to work, you're probably not mixing it correctly.

Edited July 12, 2008 by harrypri

[cruz]

I use the Devcon myself and never had any issues, works great for me. Just make sure that the parts you are putting together are aligned and ready to glue, you have to work quickly with this stuff and like Clamm says, don't get anything generic, always pay a little extra and go with the name brands, that's why they cost extra!

[Joe Nunes]

I use both Devcon and ZAP brands of epoxy. Using the separate bottles I sqeeze an applicable amount of each part (A & B ) onto a small paper plate, mix well with a coffee stick or toothpick and apply. Easy does it as epoxy can spread quite a ways. Epoxy can also be heated with a heat gun whereby it becomes thin like water, and "painted" onto large areas (I use this method all the time to fuel proof balsa or plywood areas on my R/C planes). Have plenty of ventilation when doing this. Epoxy can be cleaned up with Isopropyl Alcohol.

Edited July 12, 2008 by rhoadapple

[Brendan]

Like harrypri said, all epoxys are the same. Doesn't matter which brand you use. Some brands will be clear when they dry and some will yellow when they dry. Just depends on what chemical they were using to dye the A and B parts. Will mention this though...when you're prepping the part, make sure you rough up the surface. That way it gives the epoxy something to bite into. If it's a smooth surface, it will hold but you can peel it up. Another way to make it dry more quickly is to mix it into a small disposable cup and microwave it for 5 to 10 seconds. This gets the chemical reaction going quicker which will make it dry quicker. Another thing, make sure you use the right type of epoxy. There are several types out there. Some are meant for wood, some for metal, and some for plastic/general purpose. I don't have a favorite brand. I use whatever is the cheapest. As for the hardener drying out, it does occur but not very often. Try to store it in a cool, shaded area out of direct sunlight. And make sure you clean the bottles after use. That way you can make sure you have an airtight seal. Hope this helps.

[Modelmartin]

I barely use Epoxy anymore, maybe once a year. It does come in handy once in a while where I really need some strength. The strongest stuff out there is JB Weld but it is gray in color. I used epoxies alot about 20-25 years ago and once in a while I take a look at those old models and the Epoxy has turned dark amber! I used Devcon exclusively.

I use CA, Crystal clear white glue, and Plexiglass type glue(similar to Tenax and Drumhead brands, essentially there are just hotter versions of tube and bottle glue but no filler agents). I use the plexi glue because you get a pint for the same price as a few small bottles at the Hobby Shop.

I use the hot solvent glue and, rarely, the JB Weld for fabrication and initial assemblies before paint. I use non-fogging CA and Crystal clear almost exclusively in final assembly. It works very well for me.

Andy Martin

[Rick]

I find myself using epoxy more and more lately. I have found that the brand doesn't matter much, but mixing it well makes all the difference. It needs to be mixed at least a full minute or it won't cure properly

Rick