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Posted

Hello,

The Ferrari 308 GTB got its first color coat. Cobra Colors California Azzurro Metallic. After the first light coat, I did a medium coat. It looks so good it can almost go to clear now. But I'll let it sit and will check it carefully tomorrow and continue with color coats. The picture is horrible. It looks a gazillion times better in person than in the pic.

DSCF2928.JPG

Thanks,

Posted

Very cool Ismael! I've always liked that Ferrari a whole lot, going back to, well, I don't know when, but the extent of my car knwledge came from Hot Wheels! :shock: (long time ago, 80s probably!)

There was a pearl white one for sale here for the longest time. Probably 4-5 years. I think it's probably still there, sometimes they have it in the garage but the last time I passed it was not there.

I really want to just stop and ask them what they are selling it for, see if that's why it's been there since the last millenium :lol:

Posted

Color looks great on it!

If you are layering color coats and still planning to add more, I can suggest a trick that helps the final appearance.

I generally lay down color coats in two steps; I get the color up to the level you show now; I Micromesh w/3200/3600, and then apply panel lines w/a Pigma Micron pigment liner, a black pen sized .005. It's relatively clean, any excess cleans w/a damp towel or swab, and then you lay on a few more color coats. The "sandwiched" black panel lines become a darker tone of the surrounding area. Works very well w/Cobra Colors (and Tamiya, and Testors..but the Testors lacquers are pretty color-dense). I find it easier than doing an acrylic panel line wash after the paintjob is finished, but sometimes I still do that. The "sandwiched" panel line trick is nice and subtle, and eliminates mixing some odd colors...yellow and white cars are the most difficult to do panel lines w/ a color wash. The sandwich technique is ideal on lighter colors.

Posted
I Micromesh w/3200/3600, and then apply panel lines w/a Pigma Micron pigment liner, a black pen sized .005. It's relatively clean, any excess cleans w/a damp towel or swab, and then you lay on a few more color coats. The "sandwiched" black panel lines become a darker tone of the surrounding area.

Thanks Bob,

I tried that once but I could never make the ink to flow evenly. I don't remember what brand pen I used, but it was a .005 as well. I got only short lines, and when I tried to join them it would blotch. Any idea why this happened? Any tips? I'll look for it to try again.

Thanks,

Posted

Thanks Bob,

I tried that once but I could never make the ink to flow evenly. I don't remember what brand pen I used, but it was a .005 as well. I got only short lines, and when I tried to join them it would blotch. Any idea why this happened? Any tips? I'll look for it to try again.

Thanks,

One thing I don't like about the pens is the very short working tip; sometimes a panel line is so tight to get the tip in there and the ink to flow. Sometimes you have to go back and forth w/the pen to get the ink to flow. While I say it's easy; I do tend to go over the spot several times to get the line as uniform as possible. In general I make three passes; one perpendicular (and to make sure the line is complete), one at an angle facing one of the panels, another facing the opposite panel. This gives good coverage and a uniform line when viewed at different angles. Another option is to do the panel lines w/a brush and a black wash before the second round of paint. The panel lines need to be pretty black for the effect to work underneath the final layers of color. With a bit of practice I've had nearly perfect luck w/the pens, and definitely find it easier than mixing a colored wash. I don't like black panel lines on light-color models, too harsh, too much contrast, and as I said before yellow models are especially hard to mix a darker yellow wash that looks convincing, and white isn't easy either.

Posted

looks great Izzy, I just started polishing mine yesterday, I noticed that your going to attach the front and rear fascia's after painting, I attached mine before. I don't have the instructions so I don't know how Monogram suggested how to do it, but in test fitting I noticed that the chassis can be slid into place during final assembly with the fascia's attached. plus, for some unknown reason I can not get light color paint to match body panels during the painting process. so I attached them before paint and primer.

Posted
looks great Izzy, I just started polishing mine yesterday, I noticed that your going to attach the front and rear fascia's after painting, I attached mine before. I don't have the instructions so I don't know how Monogram suggested how to do it, but in test fitting I noticed that the chassis can be slid into place during final assembly with the fascia's attached. plus, for some unknown reason I can not get light color paint to match body panels during the painting process. so I attached them before paint and primer.

I have the same problem, I usually tape fascias in place when painting so they match the body, unless I know I can glue them ahead of time and still get the chassis to fit. Separate hoods are even worse to get to match, I always paint the underside and underhood area first then loosely (but securely, just don't want the paint to "glue" it in place) attach the hood in place for the rest of the color coats so everything matches.

Posted
Ish,

do I need to get a passport?

Want me to bring you anything? Tillamook Cheese? Moosehead Beer?

(*beer*)

Jairus

Passport? Isn't that a radar detector? :D

No you don't need it, unless you plan to hop from here anywhere else :D

Let me know the date so I can block it in the calendar.

Thanks,

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