Thoughts on paint

[THarrison351]

I’m putting this in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials because I’m not sure where else to place my observations/frustrations/questions. When I was young (way before the internet or access to model magazines), I discovered the hard way most spray paints that weren’t Testors or Pactra, wouldn’t be compatible with styrene, and ruined some kits. I do mean ruined too, you might be able to get the paint off, but the plastic is wrinkled forever. So, unless I wanted a smooth custom body from sanding all the wrinkles out of the plastic, I had better get another kit. It only took a couple of ruined kits out of my meager allowance to never attempt alternative paints. In the ‘80s as an adult, I discovered I needed a primer under the topcoat to prevent a wrecked model. PlastiKote was my go to primer for a long time. The only consistent problem I’ve ever had with this method, was ghosting from the flash and parting lines that was sanded off. I know I could try silver paint as recommend as a barrier, but was reluctant due to past problems of paint lifting off silver paint. So, back to my reason for this topic in the first place.
 I still see multiple posters on this forum who paint their cars with non-polystyrene compatible paint, but no one ever makes comments or suggestions on this problem. I don’t make comments because, well I don’t build so much anymore and feel it’s not my place to criticize other builders. I will show an example of what I’m talking about. 

It’s from a quick build I did of Challenger a few years ago. The paint I used was some auto interior vinyl dye. I had used this brand and color before on other kit’s interiors and chassis’ without a problem, but as you see, this one went funky. I don’t spray heavy coats. My first coat is always a mist and I allow it to flash off before I add several light coats until it is covered. I noticed it was wrinkling after the first light coat, so the damage was done. Fortunately, it was the chassis and interior. 
What I hope to get out of this is: a) what are people using for primer, b ) I worked at parts store that sold PlastiKote for years, but now sell Duplicolor and in my experience, it’s not as good so, my question is where do I find PlatiKote primer, c) Has anyone used acrylic floor wax as a primer, and how did that work out?

Edited July 2, 2018 by THarrison351

[GMCMAN52]

I still use Plastikote and I purchase it form Amazon. I use their flat black for classics and use their white and grey primer depending on the body color being used.

[High octane]

I've used Tamiya Silver Leaf on plastic for a "color barrier" and never had any paint "lift off." Over the years I've also found Testors, Tamiya, Black Gold, MCW, and Dupli-Color to be compatible with each other. In the last few years I've been using Tamiya Primer and I know that it's pricey, however I get good results with it and you can get it at Hobby Lobby with a 40% off coupon.

[MrObsessive]

Ok, I'm gonna be the contrary one and HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you learn to barrier coat ALL of the newest kits BEFORE you put on any color coats. Reason is this: The plastic they're using these days is NOT the same as it was 10-15 years ago. Today's plastic is "softer" and doesn't take to even some automotive primers as well as they did years ago, and I'm going to include the latest iteration of Plastikote (my favorite) in that mix.

Paint manufacturers are forever changing formulations without notice, and you can end up with that hotter can of paint which will have you gnashing your teeth in frustration, as all the prep work you did in getting the model ready for paint, is now one crazed mess.

What do I use for a barrier?...............this.

This is basically a shellac, and it's my go to solution for putting a barrier coat on any plastic I suspect will give me trouble which is 'bout anything new these days. You'll need an airbrush to apply this (an old one is best) and it will thin with alcohol. This does come in a spray can, but I don't like it as it comes out REALLY heavy and just makes a mess.

Kits cost too dang much these days to leave painting woes up to chance, and if you take a look at the pic below, this Viper was painted with some mighty hot automotive paint, and was barrier coated with the above.

As you can see there's nary a crazed body panel on 'er, and while it's more work, trust me it'll save you a LOT of grief. And yes, many years ago I tried the silver paint barrier method using Testor's spray can silver and like you said, I too had lifting problems with the color coats. Never again.

Just my 2¢ worth agree or disagree.........your mileage may vary.

[BigTallDad]

Or you could just go with enamel. This was done using Ace Hardware rattle-can (no airbrush) and a dehydrator.

[MrObsessive]

Raymond, that looks EXCELLENT!

Your idea is a good one except that if one wants to use the factory colors that you can't get in enamel, I'd still strongly suggest putting some kind of barrier coat on the plastic.

I've simply become cynical of the kit/paint manufacturers of late because in order to keep costs as low as they can, they'll switch up on processes and materials to do what they can to save money. Meanwhile, those that aren't up to speed about what's happening with the business end of things, can't figure out what used to work without a hitch for years, is now all of a sudden giving them all kinds of grief.

This has just been my experience and with kits costing upwards of $30 (or more) these days............I don't like surprises when it comes time to painting and such.

[THarrison351]

I have B-I-N and never once thought about using it on models. I'm going to try that. Thanks for everyone's input.

[Howard Cohen]

I have started to use Tamiya Clear (TS-13) as a barrier coat (hint from a friend who was a professional painter) to prevent fogging from body work and sanding and it works quite well. I start by doing whatever body work I need, then use Tamiya Fine White Primer, sprays on thin and covers, then shoot a coat of TS-13, then my colour coat. I wait about 20 minutes between coats, then let it sit for a few days to fully cure