How do I lower the Revell 41 Willys?

[Tuffy's Garage]

Want to lower the front end of this was wondering if anyone has some pics on how they lowered theirs

[Ace-Garageguy]

It depends on whether you have the straight-axle "gasser" version or the independent front suspension "street rod" version.

[Kris Morgan]

Assuming it is the gasser kit you could simply locate the pro street version and, use that front end.

[Tuffy's Garage]

its the pro street version

 

[Mark]

The pro street Willys has a Mustang II based independent front suspension.  Lowering would involve moving the wheel mounting position higher up on the front spindles.  If those are already "maxed out", you're stuck with shifting the entire suspension setup upwards versus the frame rails.

[Ace-Garageguy]

35 minutes ago, Mark said:

The pro street Willys has a Mustang II based independent front suspension.  Lowering would involve moving the wheel mounting position higher up on the front spindles.  If those are already "maxed out", you're stuck with shifting the entire suspension setup upwards versus the frame rails.

Exactly. The online instructions (I don't have that kit in stock to look at) show the front spindles to have stub-axles molded in about the center of the spindle. Carefully cut the stub-axle free from the spindle and re-glue it UP in relation to the chassis, as far as you want the car to go DOWN.

OR...perhaps an easier way...file material off the TOP of each spindle, and add a spacer (of the same dimension as you removed from the top) to the BOTTOM of the spindle. Re-create the mounting pins with rod stock, if you want to retain the "steering" ability.

Either method duplicates in scale exactly what you do when you replace stock spindles with "dropped" spindles on a real car.

NOTE: Exactly how you do it depends on how low you want to go.

To lower the thing even more, the upper control arms can be cut loose from the chassis and raised relative to it with spacer blocks. This will move the spindles up relative to the chassis, and you can either add spacers of an equal thickness to the lower ends of the spindles, or file the crossmember mounts to allow it to move up as well.

Careful measuring of the stock ride height, and a mockup of the ride height you want, is essential to determine how much you cut...and where...BEFORE you start modifying.

Edited November 9, 2018 by Ace-Garageguy

[Deuces]

Wow, I thought the front end on the street rod version sat low enough....?

[Ace-Garageguy]

5 minutes ago, Deuces said:

Wow, I thought the front end on the street rod version sat low enough....?

"Low enough" is a relative concept.     

[Deuces]

I always went the nhra 24 inch rule when it comes to a Willys ..... But, that just me.....??

[Ace-Garageguy]

4 minutes ago, Deuces said:

I always went the nhra 24 inch rule when it comes to a Willys ..... But, that just me.....??

The 24" rule was the maximum height for the crank centerline.

I believe, in the gasser days, the minimum was 16".

Edited November 9, 2018 by Ace-Garageguy

[Deuces]

They look better @ 24"..... ??

[dodgefever]

There.  That's "low enough".

[Deuces]

Thank you sir!..... ??