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For You Guys That Like To Build Beat Up Cars


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Hobby Lobby sells a BIG (12" x 30") roll of K&S Engineering aluminum for $5.99. It's .005 thick, or 36-gauge.  As for making fenders, I've seen people "form" metal sheet over plastic fenders, then carefully cut away the plastic and glue in the metal.  I haven't made that work yet but I have 10 thumbs.  I did buy one of those K&S rolls long ago and have used it on smaller projects, like 1/35 scale straight fenders, shell-holders in tanks etc.  HL also sells very thin brass sheets.

https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Wood-Crafting/Hardware-Tools/36-Gauge-Aluminum-Roll/p/21909

 

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3 hours ago, Atmobil said:

It would be fun to learn how to replicate body panels in metal, one could actually get real rust on them.

Actually, it's pretty easy. Time, patience and some scratchbuilding skills are all that's required. I've used .016" brass and aluminum sheet to fabricate parts like landing gear and bomb bay doors for a 1/48 scale B-52C and door skins for the Revellogram '59 Impala. The .016"  brass needs to be annealed so it is easier to form over a buck such as a cut out door. I've also made new hoods, for kits such as the AMT '70 Coronet, using .016" aluminum. Round tip pliers

image.jpeg.398f1de5ec27eda89af5a96cb6739448.jpeg

are especially useful in forming and shaping the complex curves as found on the Coronet's hood.

image.jpeg.ad7ea9a3384a5ea6beadb0f281d2ffab.jpeg

As far as rust goes, it ain't gonna happen using non-ferrous material. Unless you plan on using steel sheets, which require far too much work, you'll have to simulate rust with weathering pigments or paints.

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