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Posted

Hi guys, after reading about it on the internet  on several different forums, I thought I would try tamiya extra thin cement on some clear parts. It works!! No fogging and strong. So I guess there is no need to use other types of "clear glue" when it works well. There must be quite a difference between the regular orange top tamiya cement and the tamiya extra thin cement. The only thing I will say, is if the windscreen is not a good fit for the surround, a thicker glue may work better.

Posted

It is basically acetone (listed on the label).  I'm surprised that it has not crazed the clear plastic.  Just don't get it anywhere on the visible parts of the clear parts.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I am way to fumble fingered to even attempt to use a solvent glue. I use Elmers Clear Glue. Takes a while to dry, but if I goof it up, I can just pop it out, clean it up and try again. No harm done.

My current project is a glue bomb. The glass had to be dremeled out. I was able to break out the chunks after I cut out the glue. Lucky for me it is a Semi truck and all the glass is flat. I used clear sheet from HL and gluing that in place. Solvent would not work on it either.

But, if it works for you, that is awesome. Best served for those with good skills and steady hands.

I use MEK as a "thin" glue. It works the same as Plastructs glue and is 100 times cheaper. I get a Quart (32oz) for less than I pay for 2oz of "thin" glue. So, maybe 50 times cheaper.

Edited by Oldmopars

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