Paint problems

[martman]

Guys I am having troubles with my painting from the spray can. I am getting excesive pebbleing or what ever you want to call it. I am them left with a very rough surface.Then I have to sand and polish it..Which is not a problem but. I have 2000 grit and polishing compound. I have done some real painting in my time so I understand the basics of painting.I am heating the paint in warm water, I am sprying from about 12 inches back, i am using light mist coat, but I seem to be doing something wrong

I have always used the small duplicolor automotive touch ups from local parts store. Primer works good and I give it a good wet sand after, then the top coat, sand and polish and then clear.

My 70 302 Boss, and 70 Roadrunner turned out very nice from this process.

This time I used tamiya black out of the spray can and I had the pebbeling, and the paint seemed very soft after drying and when I tired to we sand it went right to primer with very little sanding effort so

my 65 mustang fastback project turned out ot be a disaster and had to sand all the way down and start over again. Broke a C pillar in the process. I am adding the hood scoop wing, and mirrors from 429 boss, 302 boss engine and wheels so I want it to look good. But I am left with a mess and may buy another kit to get a fresh body.

Will an airbrush make that big of a difference? What recomendations do you have for a good airbrush.

Any tips would be helpfull.

[Zoom Zoom]

You have to modify your technique going from cans of automotive spray to cans of Tamiya. At this point thinking of using an airbrush isn't going to solve the basic problem.

Tamiya sprays apply in thinner coats than automotive, and it tends to shrink more too. What may have seemed like adequate wetsanding of the primer under auto paint may still have too much texture for the Tamiya paint to cover. And Tamiya sprays can be shot a lot closer to the model than from 1 foot away. Depending on how fast you move the can back and forth, you can spray it just inches from the surface. The Tamiya spray doesn't have a chance to get a wet enough coat to end up smooth and glossy.

Before trying a new paint on a model, test it on plastic spoons. Prime/paint the spoons to test the color and finish. This is how you learn how a new paint works for you.

As for when the paint is dry, Tamiya does dry softer than automotive paint, and it will be easier to polish through if you are using the same techniques as automotive paint. Tamiya's own compounds work best on Tamiya paint. You have to adjust your polishing technique as well if you want success w/Tamiya paint.

I decant and airbrush Tamiya paint all the time. Really doesn't matter what airbrush you use, if you spray it at the right consistency and pressure and from the correct distance. It's all dependant on the paint, the airbrush, and conditions. Tamiya paints work very well, but you need practice with them to find out how they work best. Apply on the absolute smoothest surface as possible, apply wet coats after a couple mist coats, and carefully polish them out. Using the same techniques w/Tamiya sprays as in using automotive is kind of like using an anvil when a scalpel is necessary. If you don't get the hang of using Tamiya, go back w/the Duplicolor spray and use that black. It will be more familiar to you and the techniques you're already comfortable with.

[Eshaver]

Martman, if I remember correctly you said you live in western Canada, right? Im curious as to how humid the air is when you are spraying. I too suffered from the same problem using arisol touch up paint in humid conditions too here in Virginia . you might want to invest in a walmart dehumidifier. That might be the source of some of you're problem. Ed shaver

[tabsscale1]

Sound like to me that the can was to far away from the model and the paint was drying before it hit the model. I have always shot within 6 inches with testors or Tamiya paints and don't have any problems. Duplicolor is shot the same way.

[martman]

You have to modify your technique going from cans of automotive spray to cans of Tamiya. At this point thinking of using an airbrush isn't going to solve the basic problem.

Tamiya sprays apply in thinner coats than automotive, and it tends to shrink more too. What may have seemed like adequate wetsanding of the primer under auto paint may still have too much texture for the Tamiya paint to cover. And Tamiya sprays can be shot a lot closer to the model than from 1 foot away. Depending on how fast you move the can back and forth, you can spray it just inches from the surface. The Tamiya spray doesn't have a chance to get a wet enough coat to end up smooth and glossy.

Before trying a new paint on a model, test it on plastic spoons. Prime/paint the spoons to test the color and finish. This is how you learn how a new paint works for you.

As for when the paint is dry, Tamiya does dry softer than automotive paint, and it will be easier to polish through if you are using the same techniques as automotive paint. Tamiya's own compounds work best on Tamiya paint. You have to adjust your polishing technique as well if you want success w/Tamiya paint.

I decant and airbrush Tamiya paint all the time. Really doesn't matter what airbrush you use, if you spray it at the right consistency and pressure and from the correct distance. It's all dependant on the paint, the airbrush, and conditions. Tamiya paints work very well, but you need practice with them to find out how they work best. Apply on the absolute smoothest surface as possible, apply wet coats after a couple mist coats, and carefully polish them out. Using the same techniques w/Tamiya sprays as in using automotive is kind of like using an anvil when a scalpel is necessary. If you don't get the hang of using Tamiya, go back w/the Duplicolor spray and use that black. It will be more familiar to you and the techniques you're already comfortable with.

Thanks for the plastic spoon tip I will test spray that first.

Regards,

[martman]

Martman, if I remember correctly you said you live in western Canada, right? Im curious as to how humid the air is when you are spraying. I too suffered from the same problem using arisol touch up paint in humid conditions too here in Virginia . you might want to invest in a walmart dehumidifier. That might be the source of some of you're problem. Ed shaver

Yea I live in the middle of the prairies (Regina, Saskatchewan) The air is quite dry right now and I work in my garage and usally turn the heat on when I am painting to speed up the drying process.

Regards,

[martman]

Sound like to me that the can was to far away from the model and the paint was drying before it hit the model. I have always shot within 6 inches with testors or Tamiya paints and don't have any problems. Duplicolor is shot the same way.

Thanks I will try it a little closer and see what happens.

Regards,

[bobss396]

Yeah, get in as close as possible. Personally, I cringe at the mention of "mist coats". This to me is an invitation to achieving a grainy mess like you described. On the first pass, I go for coverage on all those hard to reach spots and make sure I get paint on areas where I need to polish without blowing through it.

I'll admit that I tend to have a heavy hand with my paint and once in a while get a sag that has to be dealt with. Another thing that I do is avoid overspray on things that I've just shot.

Bob