Formed Metal panels for large scale?

[Sebringmgb]

Ive been playing with the idea of building a large scale vehicle (1:8 - 1:6) using "hand formed" aluminum panels... I just cant figure out how to do it! I can make scale vehicle bodies out of clay or styrene, and i can make fiberglass molds.... But not much in the way of metalworking. What im imagining, is to "hammer a sheet" into some sort of mold... I dont think i have the skills or experience to just hammer out panels without a mold... Can anyone help and point me in the right direction? Id like to avoid too much soldering and cutting. Any help is much appreciated!

[Pete J.]

Ive been playing with the idea of building a large scale vehicle (1:8 - 1:6) using "hand formed" aluminum panels... I just cant figure out how to do it! I can make scale vehicle bodies out of clay or styrene, and i can make fiberglass molds.... But not much in the way of metalworking. What im imagining, is to "hammer a sheet" into some sort of mold... I dont think i have the skills or experience to just hammer out panels without a mold... Can anyone help and point me in the right direction? Id like to avoid too much soldering and cutting. Any help is much appreciated!

Go to Amazon and search for Gerald Wingrove. His books go into great detail on building body bucks and making metal bodies. It is amazing stuff. Unfortunately the only way to get experience at this is to do it! This is not something you will get right the first or even the third time. The trick is to keep after it. Sheet aluminum is cheap so good luck. I have never taken the time to try it, but it looks like fun. Pete J.

[Aaronw]

Hand formed metal panels are usually hammered over a wood buck. If you have seen how vacformed parts are done it is similar, except the metal is hammered into shape instead of using vacuum.

At one point I saw a website showing Gerald Wingrove building a large scale car (Bentley as I remember), it was pretty impressive as he was basically building a small car, down to the individual working pistons.

[JHDrew]

You will probably have to use copper or brass formed over the wood buck after you carve it. Aluminum is real hard to work with when it comes to joining seam lines.

Here is Gerald Wingroves web page. It will be very helpful.

Gerald Wingrove Web Page

I tried to work in aluminum but with the scale thickness being so small I couldn't get anything to weld or solder it together without burning it. Here's a shot of a fender I tried a while ago.

Good Luck

[Sebringmgb]

Thanks for the fast help guys! Ive never done a wood buck before... Although i imagine with some trial and error i could manage it... Ive done a tiny bit of wood working... Ill check out Mr Wingroves literature... I just scanned over his builds... I love the scale-mania builds. My local hobby shop has a Maserati birdcage thats pretty insane... No moving internals... but ALL the wiring is represented... and runs a complete circuit as it would on the 1:1... Again, non-functioning, but its the fact that its accuratly represented is what i like... I could care less if they have a copper core leading to a LED or something!

Anyway, i hope that i can make use of this info... I realize that ill have to do stuff over and over... Thats my M.O.! For every one thing i build... there is a full garbage can of failed examples of different parts of it. In some cases, i actually went back and raided the can and made a second, less refined example.

Thanks again for the fast responses guys... Ill post up some stuff here if i have any success.... though you may all be appaled at what I do with the finished project.... Or maybey not. But thats why is why im trying to steer away from copper... Any chance thin steel sheeting could work? Part of the idea, is i would like it to have it be and approximate "scale sturdyness" of real body panels... I should say, this will be a highly detailed build, But it will see some use, and i would like the signs of that use to be apparent, scale, and not require faux weathering, so that this project can develop a visual history over the years.

That aluminum fender looks pretty good too! I think im going to have to look around this site a bit... I kind of build in a vaccuum... I havent really ever showed most of my stuff untill a few months ago, and never really looked at stuff that i didnt just happen to stumble across (such as that 1/3 scale 312 that im SURE has been discussed here at length) or hand-made models for sale.... Im really not even sure how much full-scratchbuilding goes on in car modeling???? Ive seen a lot of super-detailing, but "scratch built model car" never really gets me much good info on google.

Edited October 29, 2008 by Sebringmgb

[JHDrew]

Ive seen a lot of super-detailing, but "scratch built model car" never really gets me much good info on google.

FYI if you are looking for scratch built the engine shown under my signature is all scratch built. Also, if you are going to do scratch building, prepare for a long period before the finished product can be shown.

Here is a link to the rest of the pictures:

Corvette Grand Sport Build Pictures

[LDO]

Thanks again for the fast responses guys... Ill post up some stuff here if i have any success.... though you may all be appaled at what I do with the finished project.... Or maybey not. But thats why is why im trying to steer away from copper... Any chance thin steel sheeting could work? Part of the idea, is i would like it to have it be and approximate "scale sturdyness" of real body panels... I should say, this will be a highly detailed build, But it will see some use, and i would like the signs of that use to be apparent, scale, and not require faux weathering, so that this project can develop a visual history over the years.

...

Don't steer away from copper. It's perfect for model cars. It can be (relatively) easily shaped, easily cut, and easily soldered together. Brass is good for panels that don't have a lot of curve in them.

Here's a stretched hood for Revell's 1/8 scale '32 Ford. It's 3/4" (6 scale inches) longer than stock.

New hood beside stock. Also pictured is the hammer I used to shape it and the chunk of cold-rolled steel I used to hammer it out on. If you want, I can give more details later. I'm on my way out the door to take my dog to play with her friend Daisy the Doberman.

Edited October 30, 2008 by LDO

[Sebringmgb]

Hood looks great man! The only reason im trying to steer away from copper, is when it scratches through to copper... the colour will be copper.. Half the reason is to avoid the scratch-through to white styrene... Although, i suppose when tarnished, copper might look a bit like oxidization. What do you guys think? Perhaps doing a spray-on aluminum coat over the finished body? Chrome-plating the copper, and sanding the finish down prior to paint may resolve this perhaps? I think i may NEED to do copper based on what youve said, as I'll be doing a more modern vehicle, so im guessing whatever i decide to use for this project, itll probably have a bunch of modern gobbledegook on the panels! (undecided on which, but it will be post-1980 for sure)

Thanks again for your guidance guys... Dont let me interfere with your dog's schedueled appointments!

Edited November 1, 2008 by Sebringmgb

[Pete J.]

Actually copper is a very good choice. First it is easy to anneal. As you work it it hardens and needs to be heated and re-softened. It also solders very nicely and paint sticks to is very well. Many high end craftsmen us the metal almost exclusively.

Pete J.