Protecting paint

[Hws5283]

I finished painting the engine on one of my kits and wanted to know what I should spray the parts of the model with in order to protect the paint. Also would I want to spray this for example before applying weathering pigments or washes or after?

Thanks

[Dave G.]

Well all that depends on what type of paint you used and the type of wash you want to use. I recently brush painted an engine with craft paint over stynylrez primer and did oil wash onto it directly with no clear coat. When I do clear an engine I use either the lacquer used on the old Model Master Metalizer paints or I mix a concoction of Liquitex varnishes which are available in matt, satin and gloss. But I think this engine I will leave as is, which is often the case for me. Once it's in the chassis it will never be touched again only by eye sight lol ! So what is there really to protect it from ?

It was actually oil based stains I used which go right over acrylic paint, least mine do.

Edited February 20, 2021 by Dave G.

[StevenGuthmiller]

I quite often clear coat engine parts with one of the Testors clear gloss spray lacquers.

I use flat enamel colors very often for engine parts because I like the properties and workability of flat paints over gloss, and then I can clear coat to add the amount of shine that I want.

This also protects the paint underneath as you stated.

With the gloss coat method described above, you would be better served to apply your washes after the gloss.

Otherwise your grime will be unrealistically shiny.

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

 

 

[Hws5283]

Thanks thats a great idea, ill give that a shot. 

Also could you tell me what you did to the transmission to give it that dirty look, ive been looking for a way to dirty up the engine and make it look more used. 

 

Edited February 20, 2021 by Hws5283

[StevenGuthmiller]

I used a thinned mixture of black and brown acrylic craft paint for this wash.

I mixed it to about the consistency of 2% milk and then just brush it on all over the parts.

After the paint has dried for a while, I then took a slightly dampened Q-tip and wiped over the entire part to remove the wash from the high spots.

I did this for the engine, engine bay and all of the chassis parts.

 

 

 

 

Steve

[Hws5283]

Thanks, really appreciate it

 

[Dave G.]

I do something similar to Steve when I use acrylic paints for washes but make the washes quite a lot thinner, then mop up with a tissue. You can get creative with colors, good to have is tans ( earth colors),raw umber, burnt umber, sienna, gold or copper with a very fine fleck in it and black.  Armed with these you can simulate dirt, a little oil residue, radiator spill or hose weepage, traces of rust  etc. Not to mention shadowing for firewalls etc as mentioned. I never leave the under hood area bare paint, even if just a very light duty wash will bring realism and depth.

I also use artist acrylic paints and as mentioned in my first post those transluscent stains ( my go to presently). Black artist acrylic thinned way down does a great job on a grill wash to shadow the recesses. And artist acrylics have more flex and stick than craft paints to hang onto chrome with. Artist oils are good too but can get expensive and of course now odorless mineral spirits becomes the agent of choice instead of water or water/alcohol mix.

[OldNYJim]

On 2/19/2021 at 10:41 PM, StevenGuthmiller said:

I quite often clear coat engine parts with one of the Testors clear gloss spray lacquers.

I use flat enamel colors very often for engine parts because I like the properties and workability of flat paints over gloss, and then I can clear coat to add the amount of shine that I want.

This also protects the paint underneath as you stated.

With the gloss coat method described above, you would be better served to apply your washes after the gloss.

Otherwise your grime will be unrealistically shiny.

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

 

 

The weathering on that engine looks GREAT, I really like how that came out

[TransAmMike]

Great looking Pontiac engine?