1:12 scale Ferrari 312T

[JohnnyK]

Update April 14

The weather is too crummy for gardening, so I'm back to modeling.

The fuel supply hoses and oil hoses have been installed. This thing has more hoses than Home Depot.

The rear suspension is complete.

[Chris Smith]

Looking good ?

[AL.]

Johnny, this is fabulous work, well done mate and keep at it.

I've just bought one of these myself and will be starting it when I finish my 1:12 Matra MS11, so i'm looking forward to gaining some inspiration from yours.

[JohnnyK]

Thanks Chris.

Al,

If you like to add a lot of detail to your models then you will like this model.

[Chris Smith]

2 hours ago, JohnnyK said:

Thanks Chris.

Al,

If you like to add a lot of detail to your models then you will like this model.

I sure did when I did mine last year

[AL.]

9 hours ago, JohnnyK said:

Al,

If you like to add a lot of detail to your models then you will like this model.

I do like to add a lot of detail to 1:12 scale models Johnny. (see my Brabham BT44b) much of which I prefer to make myself.

On that subject, may I ask where you got the 1:12 scale hose clamps from please?

Also I had to have a little chuckle to myself about your confusion over the seat/seatbelts....... I'ts just the sort of thing I could see myself doing. Enthusiasim getting ahead of reason!! ?

 

 

 

Edited April 16, 2021 by AL.

[JohnnyK]

The 1:12 scale hose clamps were included in the KA Models Detail Kit that I purchased when I built a Trumpeter Ford GT40 MK II. The detail kit included an entire sheet of hose clamps. You can purchase the clamps from KA Models for $9.00 here:  http://ka-models.co.kr/?product=cable-tie

 

[AL.]

Many thanks for the link Johnny. Gotta get some methinks.

[JohnnyK]

You should definitely get the hose clamps. They will add a lot of realism to your model. FYI, the clamp are a little difficult to install because they are so stiff. First I bend them around a small paint brush handle or toothpick. Them I wrap them around the hose and push the tail through the slot on the other end. I use tweezers to pull the tail and then bend it over the slotted end. It takes a little practice.

[JohnnyK]

UPDATE APRIL 16

Time to assemble the front suspension and steering. The front suspension and steering are composed of 51 parts. It takes a while to assemble the suspension and steering because certain parts need to be preassembled and the glue needs to cure overnight before they can be included in the overall assembly.

Regarding the steering system, it is important that the flat spot on the steering shaft (red arrow) be in the up position and that the rack be centered on the pinion (green arrow) while the steering system is assembled. Otherwise the steering wheel will be offset when the front wheels are straight ahead.

I painted a white dot at the center of the rack and on the pinion when the steering wheel is in the proper position. This helped to keep the rack and pinion centered during assembly.

This is the final assembly. Be careful that you don't reverse the bulkhead. The instructions are not very clear.

The front suspension is fully assembled but something looks wrong. The wheel hub and brake rotor are crooked!!! 

The mounting pins (green Arrows) on the hub are offset, which means that there is a right side hub and a left side hub. I assembled them in  reverse.

Fortunately, the hubs snap into the suspension arms so it is easy to correct the problem.

The chassis, engine and suspensions are finished. Time to move onto the body panels. 

 

[AL.]

Hi Johnny,

I took a look at the site and see the ties/clamps only cost $9 BUT they want $35 to ship to the UK which I think is ridiculous for something that can go into a normal envelope, with a couple of pieces of card for stiffeners.

Oh well, just have to loo elsewere!!

Al.

 

 

[JohnnyK]

They also charge $35.00 to ship to the US. That's outragous! 

[AL.]

Wow!! Now that really is outrageous.

Sorry, forgot my manners in my last post. I'm really loving your build and you are doing an outstanding job on it. If mine comes out as good as yours, I'll be a happy bunny indeed.

Speaking of which, I bought my kit off ebay at a very good price, albeit the tub has been started. I'm going to have to try and break it apart to do a decent job on it, so I'm hoping it was glued together with superglue. That way I should be able to get it apart after it's been in the freezer for a while. (famous last words.... LOL)

 

[JohnnyK]

Post a picture of the tub. Maybe I can help.

[Jasper018]

This is looking great 

[AL.]

Here ya go John. Any help you can give will be much appreciated.

If I can get it apart, that would be perfect, if not I'm sure I can greatly improve it anyway.

 

Edited April 18, 2021 by AL.

[JohnnyK]

To be honest, I would not try to take that apart. There is a good chance that you will break something in the front suspension. On the plus side, very little of that will be seen once the model is assembled.

Following are some photos of my model. I did a dry fit of the body panels.

This model is designed so that the top panel of the body is removable. The side panels and the top two flat body panels are designed to be glued to the aluminum tub. The top and side panels of the tub will not be visible once the model is finished. Even the front suspension is  hidden from view. Now you know why I would suggest that you do not try to take the tub and front suspension of your model apart. You will gain nothing from doing that.

 

 

Edited April 18, 2021 by JohnnyK

[JohnnyK]

 

 

The body panels were painted Tamiya Italian Red. 

First I did a dry fit of the body panels starting with the side body panels.

Next I placed the top body panels (green arrows) onto the tub. These panels were bowed with the ends being higher that the middle.

I used paint bottles to flatten the top body panel while the glue cured.

Unfortunately the top body panel is warped (twisted). There are some fit issues (green arrows). This panel is designed to be removable, so there isn't much that I can do to fix these fit issues. 

[AL.]

Nice work John, shame about the warped top panel.

Thanks for your advice on my tub too. In light of your problem with the top body panel maybe I won't attempt to break mine apart after all.

Looking forward to your next update.

Edited April 20, 2021 by AL.

[JohnnyK]

The decals that came with this kit are unusable. They are yellow from age. I tried to use the Sun to bleach the decals, but that didn't really work. Plus, the decals disintagrate when placed in water. I bought a set of replacement decals  on line. I'll put this kit on-hold until the decals arrive.

[AlbertD]

Your Ferrari is looking fantastic. I just started this kit a couple of weeks ago and am enjoying the challenge. Your tips along the way will be very helpful. I just discovered this forum yesterday and am enjoying the great work from you guys. 

[JohnnyK]

Thanks for the kind words. This is a great forum because modelers share their skills which benefits everyone. Good luck on your build. 

[JohnnyK]

Update April 24

The old decals that came with the kit were unusable, so I purchased a set of decals from www.bestbalsakits.com. Very nice decals, however, they are a little thick.

Now this is an annoyance. The decals in the instruction sheet are identified with letters, the decals themselves are identified by numbers. 

I'm about half done with the decals. The colors are very dense and there is no color bleedthrough. The carrier film is crystal clear. As I mentioned, the decals are thick which is nice because the pinstriping decals do not tear.

[JohnnyK]

Update April 29

This build is starting to become a real pain. The model is heavy and clumsy. So far I have broken off both oil coolers (yellow arrows) with my thumbs when lifting the model off of my bench. The rear wing bracket (blue arrow) is heavy and is attached to the engine by two short pins.  There was no way to clamp the bracket in place, so I placed the model in a cabinet drawer to place the model in a vertical position while the glue cured.

[JohnnyK]