Tamiya paint codes, rattle cans and airbrushes...

[tommyfogarty]

Sorry for what may well be a "Noob" question, but...

 I am getting back into building after a long break (20 years).  I just purchased the very nice Tamiya 1/12 scale "Jagermeister" Porsche 934 and am surprised to see that the paint code for the body corresponds to a Tamiya rattle can and not an airbrush-able bottle pain.  The guy at the hobby store assured me that Tamiya rattle cans can actually yield great results if cleaning, priming and sanding steps are taken adequately.  I am still a bit suspicious.  Can anyone confirm or refute?

 

Edited July 27, 2021 by tommyfogarty

[stitchdup]

The tamiya rattle cans are pretty good. They flow nicely and are very forgiving in how they work. I like them and as long as your prep is good you shouldn't have any problems

[thatz4u]

4 hours ago, stitchdup said:

The tamiya rattle cans are pretty good. They flow nicely and are very forgiving in how they work. I like them and as long as your prep is good you shouldn't have any problems

totally agree...

[Misha]

Here is a useful chart that cross references the new LP line of bottled Tamiya lacquers for airbrushing, with the TS spray bombs and the recently available (at least in Canada) small bottles of enamel paints. For airbrushing the typical ratio is one to one of paint to thinner. Hope this is useful!
Cheers Misha

[Vince Nemanic]

I use a hot glue gun to attach a drinking straw to the paint nozzle then spray the paint into an airbrush bottle.  You need to let the propellant gas out for a couple of hours afterward. I then mix in a little thinner and spray. I do this with Tamiya primer and paint and have had great results. Tamiya is about the best spray Pint around.  It also works with other brands of spray paint. I polish my primer with 000000 steel wool and wash before shooting the color coats. 

[MrMiles]

the tamiya paint will definitely give excellent results. just make sure to prep the body by cleaning and mold lines, washing the body with dish soap and water, and then priming the body with tamiya primer. 

 

if you do 2 very light coats of paint in quick succession, just enough to cover the body with paint so it is completely covered with paint. then let it sit for about 30 minutes and do a "wet coat", which is a heavier coat. just short of thick enough to get it to run.  honestly, you dont even need a clear gloss coat if you can get it right.   the only issue i have with tamiya paints is they dont have a good amount of colors for cars from the 40s to 50s. 

 

i almost exclusively use tamiya spray paints. i am terrible at taking pictures, but i can confirm you can get very great results. just make sure you dont buy the PS line (for polycarbonate bodies).

you should be looking for TS line. 

Edited July 28, 2021 by MrMiles

[bluestringer]

You can also make a small hole in the paint can at the top, make sure you are above the paint level. Then let the propellant escape. After it has all released cut a bigger hole, squeeze the can to make a small funnel and pour the paint into jars for air brushing.