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Posted

I’m starting a new project while I’m waiting for some paint to come in. I decided to make a worn and rusted build. I’m putting some service parts like bumpers and lights, but keeping everything else stock to make a well used daily driver. Any advice on making rust builds?

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Posted

 Any advice on making rust builds?

Your tailgate is spot on. I can see sanding lines on the fender. Do your wet sanding in a circular motion to eliminate that.

And Testors Dullcote is your friend.

Great start on one of my favorite kits. I’m watching!

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Posted (edited)

I don’t really have any advice on rust builds besides just don’t try too hard. I’ve always been an artistic person so I just painted what I thought would work and it came out like I hoped. The base color is the darkest primer I have, then I just used testers mini paint jars to brush the rust in. I used a paper towel to take some of the paint away and brushed a very light layer of dark brown first. Then I added some more serious light rust accents to the edges by patting a brush straight down to make little dots. I used a paint pen for the letters. The fender marks are actually brush marks in one direction, but idk how I feel about them. Any thoughts? (If you read this essay through) I thought they might look like raw, rough metal, but maybe not.

 

edit - also idk if you were asking me or repeating the wuestion, but either way thanks for the advice.

Edited by Tuckerb
Posted

My 2 cents: if your registration plates are say, Arizona or Nevada, you may only want some light surface rust where the paint has gotten baked in 110 degree heat, but no rot. If, however your plates are from Rhode Island, you may want to show rust-through in the body to frame mount areas and the lower corners of the cab and where running boards touch fenders, etc...door bottoms are a good place too. The bed to fender mating area may show some and underneath you can be pretty liberal with rust unless it was an oil leaker like some of my past transportation. Inside the bed, the metal runners between the wood planks would be mostly bare metal with rust where things don't rub it off. Maybe you have this in mind...20211120_081741.jpg.763ca2034df23a2d0d380e44ac042381.jpg619148174.jpg.353485d93568e94143f310e6d477486e.jpgor this....IMG_0836.jpg.2274f0722718f15af3b674e53ea958b0.jpgIMG_2061.jpg.b4c2b8ee81cec84ef6d6c7e7491213c4.jpg

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Posted
On 12/19/2021 at 9:38 PM, Tuckerb said:actually brush marks in one direction, but idk how I feel about them. Any thoughts? (If you read this essay through) I thought they might look like raw, rough metal, but maybe not.

 

I’m not a fan of brush strokes since nature doesn’t provide them. ? My advice is to dab on your finishes instead of brushing. You said you’re artistic so think of this as a multimedia sculpture,  weathering is akin to creating a water color painting

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Posted
15 hours ago, Tom Geiger said:

I’m not a fan of brush strokes since nature doesn’t provide them. ? My advice is to dab on your finishes instead of brushing. You said you’re artistic so think of this as a multimedia sculpture,  weathering is akin to creating a water color painting

Agree!! no brushes.. I like to use ripped up sponges, are those foam blocks that come in Athearns blue box trains.

I did my weathering on this with the foam and artists oils and chalk.

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Posted
18 hours ago, Painted Black said:

Agree!! no brushes.. I like to use ripped up sponges, are those foam blocks that come in Athearns blue box trains.

I did my weathering on this with the foam and artists oils and chalk.

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That looks great! I’ll definitely be referencing all of these!

  • 3 weeks later...

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