Lowering Moebius Hudson Hornet

[BadJuju]

I've built models off & on since I was a kid, but now I'm retired, I can put effort into modifying them.  Here is how I'm lowering a Moebius 1952 Hudson Hornet coupe.  The technique should work on any of their kits that share this chassis.  I'm lowering the rear 3mm & the front 5mm, to also achieve some rake.  I plan to use the chrome steelies from the convertible kit, which I also have.  I'll show the rear, which is as far as I've gotten, then add the front later.  Hope this post is useful to folks & comments are welcome.

 

First, I notched 3mm from the frame rails to raise the rear axle relative to the body.

Then, I cut out a portion of the floor to clear the driveshaft, and another to provide clearance for the differential.  I added styrene sheet to fill in the holes.

Finally, I added 3mm tall blocks to the leaf springs, made from square styrene tube.  This mod provides an eventual connection to the axle, & allows the shocks ti remain unmodified.

 More to follow...

[customline]

Congrats on your retirement, Gary ! This project looks like fun and I am eager to see where you are going with this. 

[BadJuju]

Thanks for checking out my post.  I'm thinking of removing the chrome trim, using the ribbed bumpers from a Revell '49 Merc kit, Frenching the head lights, dropping in a Chevy 409 from an AMT '62 Impala kit, with Revell headers and scratch built side pipes, and using the Cragars from that same Impala kit.  I want to simplify the area around the tail lights with something custom.  I'm not attempting a top chop.  I need to identify a different grille bar, but I'm using the Hudson top bar and turn signals.  I'm still figuring out the paint and interior colors.  I'm also building a stock Hornet convertible in Texas Tan metallic with an earth tone interior color that would have been available, so I want a contrast with that one for this coupe.  I haven't even decided on a light vs dark exterior.  I'll add some pin stripe decals from the parts box.

[EngineerBob]

Looking forward to seeing how your Hudson turns out. I've always liked how custom looking those Hudson's were from the factory. I took a slightly different approach to lower my Moebius '53 Hudson mild-kustom model. I replaced a portion of the rear frame with a step notch (more radical lowering than a C-notch) and replaced the leaf springs with "airbags" (actually, model aircraft tires). Modded the frontend to use the Oldsmobile grill out of the Revell '48 Ford Custom 3in1 kit and streamlined the Hudson bumper by removing the over-rider/license frame.

 

[BadJuju]

7 hours ago, EngineerBob said:

Looking forward to seeing how your Hudson turns out. I've always liked how custom looking those Hudson's were from the factory. I took a slightly different approach to lower my Moebius '53 Hudson mild-kustom model. I replaced a portion of the rear frame with a step notch (more radical lowering than a C-notch) and replaced the leaf springs with "airbags" (actually, model aircraft tires). Modded the frontend to use the Oldsmobile grill out of the Revell '48 Ford Custom 3in1 kit and streamlined the Hudson bumper by removing the over-rider/license frame.

 

 

EngineerBob: nice work and I especially like the skulls graphics and nosed hood!

[BadJuju]

UPDATE:

By the way, this model is NOT intended for competition, so I am not refining the appearance of the suspension modifications.  I could clean things up with putty and sanding (except for the slip mentioned below), if I was going for a better appearance.  I'm new to this level of work, so maybe someday I'll take things that far.

I've completed the front lowering.  I was cutting the upper control arms from the chassis and the knife slipped.  I should have used a razor saw.  So I hogged out the portion still on the chassis, added a 2mm thick sheet styrene block, and glued the cut-off arm portion atop the block.  Originally, the block was going to raise the entire control arm.  I reversed the arm so the taper from the knife slip on one side allowed more cementing area.

This mod fits within the openings on the engine compartment fender wells.  Then I sawed (I learned!) the spindles, and reversed the portion with the axle location holes.  I added a 2+ mm square block between the two pieces.  The axle locator reversal lowers the front 3mm.  The added block makes a total of 5mm.  The block is "2+ mm" to account for the kerf of the saw.  Then I glued in the stub axles.

I drilled locating holes in the spindle tops and added locators, made from the attachment locators for the stock exhaust, which I'm not using.  Stretched sprue or the right size tube would also work.  The original locators are inside the hollow square tube portions I added (white in photos).

I assembled the front suspension and here's how it looks:

Here's a shot of the stance I achieved.  I'm not using these wheels, but I am using the tires, reversed to show the black sides.  I'm happy with it, including the VERY slight rake.

Again, this modification allows use of unmodified front lower control arms, springs, stabilizer bar, and tie rods.

I've decided on a different motor, too.  I'm using a Caddy V8 from a Revell '49 Merc, which in turn gets a 5.0L small block Ford from a Revell Speedwagon (with dual carb set up from R&M of MD).  The AMT 409 I was going to use is just too nice to be inside a hood, so it will go in a future hoodless Revell Model A or Deuce high boy.  My current thoughts on exterior colors for this car is a 2-tone with candy apple red pearl and ivory pearl, using a traditional Hornet dividing line.  I'm not sure whether to go red on top with ivory sides, or the reverse.  The interior will be coordinating maroon and ivory in some fashion.  This project is in parallel with several others, so I'm not sure when my next update will be.

Thanks for looking and your comments are welcome.  Happy modeling!

[bisc63]

Looking GOOD! Love the stance, and your planned colors sound sharp either way you go. Will be watching...

[Dennis Lacy]

Simple and effective solutions for dropping the ride height. The stance looks perfect!

[BadJuju]

Thanks, folks!  I hope the post is helpful to others whom, like me, are just getting into modifications like this.

To my eye, this ride height seems like it provides a realistic, roadable ground clearance.  It will be interesting to sit it side by side with the stock height convertible, when they're both done.

When that will be, I'm not sure.  I got an airbrush and paint booth a year ago and I've yet fire them up!  Been doing too much buying and not enough building.