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Window tint


slant6

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Ive personally tried Testors transparent black (window tint) and it's horrible, if the glass has any sort of curve to it, I found that it just drips and pools in the middle.. I have only had the best results using actual car tint ( bought it on sale at wal-mart for $10 on sale) Granted I probably have enough tint to do 1000 models. LOL. Just my two cents.

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Hi Will, I have had some success using a mixture of Johnson's Future (called Klear in the UK) and food colouring. You can just brush it on, one light coat at a time, and it pretty much levels out. Just don't go to mad with it, as I recently ruined a set of glazing by applying heavy coats, leaving an uneven tint which looked terrible and wouldn't come off. Also if you brush it on, you can end up with little particles stuck to the glazing, so a clean brush is essential.

I did this Impala with this method. I don't think it would be ideal for a darker tint, as I think any unevenness would become more obvious, giving light and dark streaks, but I could be wrong. I'lll have to try spraying it and see how that goes.

S5001216.jpg

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Hi Will, I have had some success using a mixture of Johnson's Future (called Klear in the UK) and food colouring. You can just brush it on, one light coat at a time, and it pretty much levels out. Just don't go to mad with it, as I recently ruined a set of glazing by applying heavy coats, leaving an uneven tint which looked terrible and wouldn't come off. Also if you brush it on, you can end up with little particles stuck to the glazing, so a clean brush is essential.

I did this Impala with this method. I don't think it would be ideal for a darker tint, as I think any unevenness would become more obvious, giving light and dark streaks, but I could be wrong. I'lll have to try spraying it and see how that goes.

Simon, did you know Johnson's Klear is just Future by another name and can be easily stripped with ammonia, which will not harm the plastic at all? I f you have an airbrush, decanting Tamiya's laquer clear red,orange,yellow,blue and smoke work very nice for tinting windows and can be stripped with 91% or higher alcohol which also does not hurt plastic.

Edited by 935k3
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I use Tamiya smoke.....lacquer in a rattlecan.This magnum had the front window tinted along with front & rear light covers!!

THE TRICK IS DISTANCE AND MISTING 3OR MORE COATS........PRACTICE ON SCRAPS FIRST!!

IMG_0761.jpg

Hey Mike that looks good is it spotty at all? That is the problem I ran into using testors transparent window tint it wasn't a nice even coat, it was pretty spotty I ended having to spray it till I got a run and then I would just run it right off the window to get it to look even.

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Hey Mike that looks good is it spotty at all? That is the problem I ran into using testors transparent window tint it wasn't a nice even coat, it was pretty spotty I ended having to spray it till I got a run and then I would just run it right off the window to get it to look even.
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I've had luck using Tamiya Smoke acrylic and from my experience multiple light coats is the only way to go. Putting too much on in one coat can be guaranteed to run. I even did a Corvette Indy using this method that that windshield is all curves.

robw

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I just checked out a Honda Fit in "Under Glass" and they were talking about window tint. I tried it once, and it was horrible. What is the best way to tint windows?

Been usin' Testors Window Tint for years with great results.

It has to be sprayed on "very lightly", in several coats.

If you mess up it can be removed with alcohol, and simply re-spray.

Use old scrap clear pieces as samples.

It'll take a little practice, but it'll work.

Here's a pic of my latest with a tinted window.

Good luck - dave :D

2008_1115Photobucket10075.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

Bit of an old thread, but I have a trick for tint. Black Sharpie. I found out that when you use it on the transparent plastic, it becomes a sort of transparent purple color up close (like some of the window tints), but from farther away it's black. Of course it would work better for smaller windows because you'll get the lines where there's more ink on the larger windows.

I figured it does work great for tinted lights, you just put the color on the inside of the light (if not already colored) and put the black on the outside. You'll be able to see the light color up close but from further away it will look tinted.

Oh yeah, you can also use the thin-tip black Sharpie for rear window defroster lines, just by laying straight lines with tape and drawing on the window.

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  • 1 month later...

I'm interested in useing real window tint for tinting models. I'd never thought of it as being usefull or easy to work with. Can you give us a tutorial?

A few years ago, there was something called Insta-Tint designed for RC lexan windows. It came in nice large sheets, smoked color, and sticky backing. You could cut to shape, and stick it to your desired window. I haven't seen it in years but if you could find it, stock up!

However, if I remembered correctly, it was difficult on complex windows, and you had to apply it very, very smoothly as you could easily get bubbles in it.

I've also tried the Tamiya window tint and had poor results with it as well. Perhaps an airbrush version would be better? Also, how would you use that "detailer" stuff?

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