Dennis Lacy Posted February 12, 2009 Posted February 12, 2009 I've never been into Chevy trucks but there's been a few builds pop up around here lately that look really good and this one is no exception! Really neat word on the top chop and personally I think it still looks good with the bed rails. And since you asked I would make the hood flip forward too, but leave it looking stock otherwise. Question about the chassis: Did you have to do anything to the suspension to get the stance you have? Cause the stance is just killer!
RodneyBad Posted February 12, 2009 Posted February 12, 2009 Nice job and Great how to pics.. I likie much.. A thought For headlights What about scribing in a pop up headlight door in the fenders like a 1937 Cord 812?
CB Posted February 12, 2009 Posted February 12, 2009 Hey Mike, truck is lookin' awesome........ Hood flop looks good.........check out Ledsled Merc's '39 Chevy here---he did something similiar with his hood, and it look good. Can't wait to see grille opened and painted the body color. Fantastic work so fars
Dr. Cranky Posted February 12, 2009 Posted February 12, 2009 Beautiful work on the body details. Can't wait to see it painted!
plumnuts Posted February 13, 2009 Author Posted February 13, 2009 thanks for the encouragement. I'v been thinking alot on the hood and I think I'v got it. now I' got to make it look like the picture in my head. as for the chasis, the suspension is box stock. the truck sits so far over it with the step rails it givs that super low look naturaly. and for the headlights thay will be mounted to the frame behind the opened grill. and cranky, you arn't the only one who can't wait for paint, but I'm tryin not to rush. had a little problem with rushing the "COUPSTER" and I still stair at the misstakes, so slow and steady on HEAVY CHEVY. picks are comming soon.
plumnuts Posted February 14, 2009 Author Posted February 14, 2009 lets shed some light on the subject! I'm so glad to have the grill open, do some sanding between the grill and primmer up. set the headlights on the frame for a nice clean look on the front. now on to the fun of hinging everything.
E St. Kruiser50 Posted February 14, 2009 Posted February 14, 2009 lets shed some light on the subject! I'm so glad to have the grill open, do some sanding between the grill and primmer up. set the headlights on the frame for a nice clean look on the front. now on to the fun of hinging everything. Hey Plum, or is it Nutz LOL This is shaping up very nice . Cool the way everyone has their own idea's of what they like, and then make the picture in their head. As Ajulia would say - "Keep on wit' da keepin on", as this is one sweet build - dave
plumnuts Posted February 14, 2009 Author Posted February 14, 2009 Hey bro Looking Great so far . A forwadr flip hood isn't nearly as hard as it looks, and since ol CB referenced my build (thankx for the compliment CB) I fugured I'd post the link to it incase you want to use it as a reference so here it is , the hood operation is about 3/4 the way down page 3 (posted Feb 1). Hope it helps (not that you need it). thanks guys for the input for the flip front ,but it won't work on the truck. I need to go up and over the grill area. I did a flip like that on the "COUPSTER". this hood needs to go up about 1/4 inch straight up and then flip forward. thanks alot and please keep on with the input.
E St. Kruiser50 Posted February 14, 2009 Posted February 14, 2009 (edited) thanks guys for the input for the flip front ,but it won't work on the truck. I need to go up and over the grill area. I did a flip like that on the "COUPSTER". this hood needs to go up about 1/4 inch straight up and then flip forward. thanks alot and please keep on with the input. Hey Plum Here's a little something you may want to try that's a little challanging, and could work as you say the engine sit's pretty low, so may not interfere with this sliding/ tilting/pivoting shock type hinge design, mounted on the inside of the fender panels. This design allows you to pull the hood straight up, pivot forward, and tilt to whatever angle you want, with 2 pivot points. I used a modified version of this on my "Retre-Vette" for the hatch. There is a construction sequence near the end of the thread, I believe on the final page. This kinda stuff is fun to play with when it's done, and it's fun to WOW your buddies with. Fun stuff . Whatta ya think - dave Edited February 14, 2009 by Treehugger Dave
plumnuts Posted February 15, 2009 Author Posted February 15, 2009 Hey Plum Here's a little something you may want to try that's a little challanging, and could work as you say the engine sit's pretty low, so may not interfere with this sliding/ tilting/pivoting shock type hinge design, mounted on the inside of the fender panels. This design allows you to pull the hood straight up, pivot forward, and tilt to whatever angle you want, with 2 pivot points. I used a modified version of this on my "Retre-Vette" for the hatch. There is a construction sequence near the end of the thread, I believe on the final page. This kinda stuff is fun to play with when it's done, and it's fun to WOW your buddies with. Fun stuff . Whatta ya think - dave hay dave thanks for the input, diagram is great. question though, what stops the wire from comming out of the tube?
E St. Kruiser50 Posted February 15, 2009 Posted February 15, 2009 (edited) hay dave thanks for the input, diagram is great. question though, what stops the wire from comming out of the tube? Making the 1/32 upper rod longer than it's movement. You can paint everything seperately, hood and body, then just slide the shocks together. As you can see in the drawing the alum. tube is mounted off center, so if necessary the pivot fitting can be drilled all the way through so the rod can be most any length you want and slide past the screw that the unit pivots on. That's what i did on the "Retro-Vette". To center the hole for the 1/32 rod to pass through, I cut a short length of alum. tube and glued it in for a drill guide, drilled the hole, then replaced it with the full length tube. Just a suggestion for your question - dave Edited February 15, 2009 by Treehugger Dave
plumnuts Posted February 15, 2009 Author Posted February 15, 2009 thanks again dave. tryin to step up the progression of my builds ,but man I tell you the hinging and pivoting is about to drive me mad. I want to make things look as real as possable and that might be getting in the way. I'll keep trying ,but things are going to slow down a bit on the build.
Custom Hearse Posted February 15, 2009 Posted February 15, 2009 Man that is a awesome truck!!!! I'm sorry I didn't see this sooner! Keep up the great work!
evilone Posted February 15, 2009 Posted February 15, 2009 See this is the type of topic i dont need to see when i have one of these kits laying around in my room LOL.Looks real good bro kepp them pics coming your starting to give me some ideas LOL.
plumnuts Posted February 19, 2009 Author Posted February 19, 2009 well I got the lights behind the grill and have some primmer going down which is a good sign, the body work isn't to bad only touch up putty and wet sanding. then I realized I dont have any light in the back to stop this thing .so I came up with this, cause the single stocker wasen't happining. what do you guys think , has the LED look and it's out of the way. the only thing that I might change is maybe split it into two pieces with filler in the middle to give it a moore two tail light look.
GOTH KUSTOMS Posted February 19, 2009 Posted February 19, 2009 the only thing that I might change is maybe split it into two pieces with filler in the middle to give it a moore two tail light look. OK brother your gonna hate me for this, and yes I understand this is not my build, but I'm so not feeling that single bar tail light, that so doesn't fit the build, going split I would say, would be the ticket, how you do the split, will also be a telling sign to the kind of build, think of these thing's when you go to split it, ONE it has hidden headlight's, TWO it's chop'd, THREE, you got a wild tilt, so you kinda have a mild kustom look already, and you should match all that with the tail lights, when you split them. Yes Bro I did the same thing with the Huall'n C-3500, I was gonna go single bar taillights but It wouldnt fit the build, and I really dont like how I split them, but it was the only thing I could come up with, to fit the build, and yea I'm sure If I thought about it more I would of done better. OK now I will go back to my corner, and eat my cookies, alone, OH AND BY THE WAY AWESOME TRUCK, VERY SLICK
plumnuts Posted February 19, 2009 Author Posted February 19, 2009 OK brother your gonna hate me for this, and yes I understand this is not my build, but I'm so not feeling that single bar tail light, that so doesn't fit the build, going split I would say, would be the ticket, how you do the split, will also be a telling sign to the kind of build, think of these thing's when you go to split it, ONE it has hidden headlight's, TWO it's chop'd, THREE, you got a wild tilt, so you kinda have a mild kustom look already, and you should match all that with the tail lights, when you split them. Yes Bro I did the same thing with the Huall'n C-3500, I was gonna go single bar taillights but It wouldnt fit the build, and I really dont like how I split them, but it was the only thing I could come up with, to fit the build, and yea I'm sure If I thought about it more I would of done better. OK now I will go back to my corner, and eat my cookies, alone, OH AND BY THE WAY AWESOME TRUCK, VERY SLICK thanks for the input. I do value your openion and I think your right so I'll look into splitting it . the truck being orange will also give a hidden look after done.
plumnuts Posted February 20, 2009 Author Posted February 20, 2009 decided to split the stop lights . feel it fits the stile better. ( thanks unforgiven ) what do you think?
evilone Posted February 20, 2009 Posted February 20, 2009 Looks real good bro im still watching for ideas LOL.
plumnuts Posted February 21, 2009 Author Posted February 21, 2009 (edited) HAY DAVE IT WORKED! I took your diagram and turned it sideways and ran with it. tweeked the design a little and found a new item to keep around the tool box ( himming pins ) from the fabrick shop. there skinny and moore rigged than wire and don't snap when bent. and the head on them looks like a large carage bolt. thay were used as the pivot bolt and the push rod in the actuator. drilled a large hole in the round plastic almost all the way through then finished the hole with a smaller bit so the head of the pin could not come through and I think it looks like a hydrolic ram. I'm just happy to be getting a shorter to do list on this thing. bed floor is painted and gas cap installed. rams made and in place. thay actually worked. I can flip it forward also. don't the pins look like large carage bolts. I'm happy Edited February 21, 2009 by plumnuts
GOTH KUSTOMS Posted February 21, 2009 Posted February 21, 2009 Perrrrty slick. and it looks good on there too, a job well done there Plum, guess we will see it it in under glass next????
plumnuts Posted February 21, 2009 Author Posted February 21, 2009 Perrrrty slick. and it looks good on there too, a job well done there Plum, guess we will see it it in under glass next???? yea man. tryin to get there, still stayin steady and tryin not to rush things .
Randy Kern Posted February 21, 2009 Posted February 21, 2009 (edited) Mike, I've been following this build from the start, and it keeps getting better as you go! Being one of my favorite truck styles, I like the funky factory headlight buckets jutting from the fenders, but have to say I like how streamlined and clean your look is without them. Just a tip for doing the bed wood, I was schooled by one of the best, fellow club member Lyle Willits. Adding clear orange or yellow to the wood, with some graining is an option. I also used future as a shellac/clear. Some guys even add food color as a dye to the future to give it a warmer look. I used Tamiya's clear orange and yellow on my '41 bed. Keep up the great progress! Edited February 21, 2009 by Randy Kern
E St. Kruiser50 Posted February 21, 2009 Posted February 21, 2009 (edited) HAY DAVE IT WORKED! I took your diagram and turned it sideways and ran with it. tweeked the design a little and found a new item to keep around the tool box ( himming pins ) from the fabrick shop. there skinny and moore rigged than wire and don't snap when bent. and the head on them looks like a large carage bolt. thay were used as the pivot bolt and the push rod in the actuator. drilled a large hole in the round plastic almost all the way through then finished the hole with a smaller bit so the head of the pin could not come through and I think it looks like a hydrolic ram. I'm just happy to be getting a shorter to do list on this thing. bed floor is painted and gas cap installed. rams made and in place. thay actually worked. I can flip it forward also. don't the pins look like large carage bolts. I'm happy WOW PLUM YOU DID GREAT MY FRIEND Your "hydraulic ram system" looks awesome. That's exciting to see you take a risk and have it work. VERY, VERY KOOOOL!!! BTW Tail lights look great IMHO - good choice. I have a VEWY SEEKWATIVE HINT for you. If you bend the sliding pin ever so slightly in the right place, it create's the right amount of "Friction", so your hood is "Poseable" in any position, without a brace to hold it up . Worked great on the "Retro-Vette". Do it first on a sample piece to experiment with. It doesn't take much, and it'll drive "Your Bud's" crazy trying to figure it out , and they'll love it. Keep the pic's coming. Love it - dave Edited February 21, 2009 by Treehugger Dave
plumnuts Posted February 22, 2009 Author Posted February 22, 2009 hay guys thanks for the tips and will definatley try the clear orange on the wood. and Dave thanks for the bending tip ,but I used the himming pins and the head is inside the tube and drags the walls enough to keep it still. but still want to play with the geometry with spacers to get the flip just right.
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