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Posted

This is a replica build of a pavement modified driven by Tom Baldwin. Always liked the look of this car so decided to try and build something that paid homage to one of my favorite cars and drivers from that era. Started with the main chassis from an MPC kit, but shortened the frame rails to reflect a 100" wheelbase. Scratch built the roll cage and other frame bars, fuel cell, shocks, nerf bars and rear bumper. Added fender flares and made a hood from Evergreen sheet. Used the kit engine and headers and added the collectors and extensions (heat shrink wrap and Evergreen styrene tube). Wheels are from Big Donkey Resin and I added valve stems, tires are PPP. Body color is a "custom blend" of the $.99 acrylic craft paint I picked up at Michael's sprayed through an airbrush. 

Chassis detail left side.jpg

Chassis detail right side.jpg

Rear Bumper with Body.jpg

TB1.jpg

TB2.jpg

TB3.jpg

TB4.jpg

TB9.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Oh yeah, that is one sweet modified. That is the style racer I grew up watching at Bowman Gray Stadium and twice a year at Martinsville and North Wilkesboro Speedway. Beautiful ride.

Posted

Thanks for the comments, much appreciated!

I've started my next tribute replica. Building a Valiant bodied modified that Lou Lazarro drove in the 1973 season. 

Posted

Really like what you did. By studying your pictures, it looks like you cut the frame twice to get the length you were after. Do you mind telling where and how much you cut it. Those frames always looked a little long to me and that's why I haven't finished any of them. Looking forward to your next project you mentioned.

Posted

Regarding the frame length, I agree that they are too long. And in my opinion, the motor sits way too forward. The way they come in the kit, the wheelbase scales out to about 115 inches. To my eye, a wheelbase between 100-105 looks right and sets the motor back the way I remember these cars running up here in New York. 

For this coupe build, I removed 1/2 inch from the main rails. See the first pic below to see where I marked the frame to make the cuts. I tried to pick a section that was fairly straight and level, which was in front of the fire wall. After I cut the main rails and was ready to reconnect them, I took a length of styrene rod and shoved it down in the channel on the top of these frame rails to keep them aligned as straight as possible. I never liked the floor pan/sheet metal in these kits either, so I took a strip of styrene and boxed the rails along the top side as I fabricated the roll cage and frame bars. Because the motor was moved back, I cut the middle cross member/trans mount and slid the entire unit in one piece back to line up with the tranny in its new location.

For the Valiant I am currently working on, took the same approach with slightly different measurements. Because the body is slightly longer than the coupe, on this frame I cut 1/4 inch out of the rails and then moved the motor mount back another 1/4 inch. I want the headers just slightly in front of the edge of body, so played around with the frame length and motor location until I liked it.

Hope this helps. Happy to answer any other questions you might have.

'36 Coupe frame.jpg

Valiant Mock Up Left Side.jpg

MPC Slammer frame.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

The 37 is cool, but I LOVE that Valiant!  That's going to be a killer build too!

Good tips on shortening the frame - I've got a few of these that I'd like to build and the kits are cheap and plentiful to pick up right now it seems

Posted

Yeah I am really liking that Valiant and picked up another one for a dirt modified that I will tackle down the road a bit. And you're right about those MPC modified reissue kits, I've picked up a few at Hobby Lobby during their 40% off weeks for something like $16. If I only use the frame, motor, radiator and quick change that's still a good deal. 

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