Second Hudson Hornet

[Anglia105E]

2 hours ago, espo said:

Nice save on the oil filter. Usually, a good idea to use some sort of a pin mounting on any of these small parts when possible. This will give you a more secure mounting than the kits mounting points. The air cleaners might be best to wait for the paint to dry before spraying another coat of paint, could all turn to goo.  You may have to wind up stripping the air cleaners and start over with a different type of paint. Another method to try the next time you're removing paint from bare metal foil. Tamiya, and others brands as well, offer pointed cotton swabs that are on the stiff side that will hold their shape when wetted with a paint remover. 

Thanks David E. . . . I am pleased to say that the red enamel paint has now dried, after 4 days . . . (normally 24 hours).

Those pointed cotton swabs by Tamiya sound like an interesting option, so I will look into that.

David

[redscampi]

I also am enjoying this Hudson. It's fun to watch it come together alongside Slotto's build. I have two of the Hudsons and a Chrysler 300 from Moebius that I'm itching to get into.

[Anglia105E]

22 hours ago, redscampi said:

I also am enjoying this Hudson. It's fun to watch it come together alongside Slotto's build. I have two of the Hudsons and a Chrysler 300 from Moebius that I'm itching to get into.

Having seen first hand how good these Moebius kits are Gary, I shall probably be on the lookout for a Chrysler 300B at some point.

David

[Anglia105E]

I wasn't happy with the 0.3 mm brass wire for the ignition / plug leads, so I stripped some wire out of the scrap 3D printer, but it was too thick at 1.00 mm.

Then I found an old phone which yielded some lengths of wire when I dismantled the phone. With a choice of four colours, I settled on the yellow wire.

The plug leads are now glued in place, and I added a fuel pipe between the carburettors. I might add some further fuel piping and other details.

Next up is the fitting of the two air cleaner canisters, along with their decals.

I realise that I am more interested in building the engine than I am in building the car itself !

David

[Slotto]

Nice work David. My son gave me a mouse that had a bent usb connector. I clipped the connector and mouse away from the wire and stripped it. Inside were 4 wires. Red, black, white and green. There were even some bare copper strands inside the jacket. This cord was 6 feet long. I've got spark plug wires for years to come now.

[Anglia105E]

8 hours ago, Slotto said:

Nice work David. My son gave me a mouse that had a bent usb connector. I clipped the connector and mouse away from the wire and stripped it. Inside were 4 wires. Red, black, white and green. There were even some bare copper strands inside the jacket. This cord was 6 feet long. I've got spark plug wires for years to come now.

Excellent Steve . . . That's what we want, a ready supply of FREE model building materials . . . All sorts of disposable items that are destined for the rubbish pile can be utilsed for our hobby. I could see the old 3D printer and the old phone would just be thrown away. Far better to make use of the parts.

David

[Anglia105E]

The two air cleaner canisters have been mounted onto the twin carburettors today, and glued in place.  I need to apply the Twin-H decals onto these.

There will be two further fuel pipes added shortly, using the 0.3 mm brass wire. I shall use the following museum photo as a reference.

Work is progressing on the chassis frame parts, with the floor pan getting a coat of grey primer, and the chassis has a coat of black primer.

David

[Anglia105E]

The Hudson engine is almost completed, with just one or two minor details to add. There is now a rolling chassis, including front and rear suspension, steering and drive shaft, as well as the exhaust system. As regards the body shell, this has been treated to a couple of coats of Tamiya Fine Surface Primer Light Gray, and also two coats of Tamiya TS-14 Black . . . Today I have applied two coats of Tamiya TS-13 Clear over the black paint. This will be allowed to cure for the next five days or so, before I apply the Tamiya Polishing Compounds, in three grades of Coarse, Fine and Finish.

Next up, according to the instruction sheet is the interior of the car . . . I have decided on Tan as the colour scheme, in two shades. For this I shall be using Humbrol brushed enamel Matt 62 Leather, and Humbrol brushed enamel Matt 63 Sand, which will have Humbrol Satin Varnish sprayed over afterwards.

David

 

[XYHARRY]

Looking good in black there David. Is that the stock ride height or have you lowered it?

Cheers,

David.??

[Anglia105E]

6 hours ago, XYHARRY said:

Looking good in black there David. Is that the stock ride height or have you lowered it?

Cheers,

David.??

Thanks David M., and that is indeed the stock ride height . . . I would not think of lowering a Hudson !

The rolling chassis is simply clipped into place within the body shell, which was awaiting clear coat when this photo was taken.

David W.

[Anglia105E]

Well I've reached the stage where the Hudson body panels have had two coats of primer, two coats of black, followed by two coats of clear. After six days allowing the clear to cure, I have applied the three grades of Tamiya Polishing Compound.

Now the puzzling result is this . . . The hood has a high gloss black surface, while although the roof of the body does have a glossy black surface, I would not describe the finish as high gloss. The same procedure was used for both the hood and the roof, in terms of number of coats, drying time between coats and the clear coating method also.

As you probably know, photographing black cars is quite difficult, so my attached photos might not show the result as clearly as I would like. The hood does not quite have a ' mirror ' finish, but it is the best that I have achieved so far, while the roof is not as good.

 

David

[Slotto]

I see quite a bit of orange peel. Keep wet sanding. I like to vary it. Starting with 600, 1200 then 3000. Black is a very tough color to make beautiful. You'll know when you get there. It will look smooth and flat. Be careful at the edges so you dont burn thru.

[Anglia105E]

11 hours ago, Slotto said:

I see quite a bit of orange peel. Keep wet sanding. I like to vary it. Starting with 600, 1200 then 3000. Black is a very tough color to make beautiful. You'll know when you get there. It will look smooth and flat. Be careful at the edges so you dont burn thru.

Your experienced eye has spotted the orange peel effect Steve, and you are absolutely right . . . my next task is to keep wet sanding. As you mentioned, those edges need caution, and even though I would have to burn through 6 layers of paint to reach bare plastic I must go steady !

David

[Anglia105E]

The roof area of the Hudson body has been wet sanded, and this time I have used a circular motion of the wet & dry paper, rather than sanding lengthways. The sanding was only down as far as the light grey primer, so just removing the black paint. Then I applied three coats of Tamiya TS-14 Black, with five minutes in between coats. When I did a visual check after overnight drying, I was pleased with the high gloss finish.

Leaving the body for a 5 days curing period before polishing compound is applied, I am working on the interior of the model.

There will be no further clear applied over the black this time, as I am hoping the polishing will bring out the required finish.

David

[XYHARRY]

G'day David W, l had orange peel on my 67 Charger and was given some good advice on how to avoid it. When using rattle cans I was told to warm the paint up by submerging the can in hot water for 20 minutes. I tried it on my next build with much better results. Note, you will need to apply light coats to avoid runs. 

Your interior is looking really good so far. Good colour choice too. It will look great against the black exterior. 

Cheers, 

David M. ??

[Zippi]

The Hudson is looking pretty sharp there David.  The top looks a lot better.  

[Anglia105E]

4 hours ago, XYHARRY said:

G'day David W, l had orange peel on my 67 Charger and was given some good advice on how to avoid it. When using rattle cans I was told to warm the paint up by submerging the can in hot water for 20 minutes. I tried it on my next build with much better results. Note, you will need to apply light coats to avoid runs. 

Your interior is looking really good so far. Good colour choice too. It will look great against the black exterior. 

Cheers, 

David M. ??

Thanks a lot David M., and I do warm up my aerosol cans for around 10 minutes in hot water, but only when the outside temperature falls below 13°C, so during Summer when the outside temp is 20°C and above, I don't warm up the cans . . . I have been applying several light coats rather going too heavy, and there have been no runs so far. I must say, these Tamiya paints are far superior to the Halfords aerosols and also the automotive paints.

Cheers,

David W.

[Anglia105E]

3 hours ago, Zippi said:

The Hudson is looking pretty sharp there David.  The top looks a lot better.  

Thank you Bob . . . I am pleased that you can make out the improvement from my photos!

David

[Anglia105E]

The roof of the Hudson has now been polished, using Tamiya Polishing Compound in coarse grade, fine grade and finish grade. The interior of the car is completed, and I have done a mock-up of the body on chassis . . . Moving on to the next stage of the build, I shall be Bare Metal Foiling, along with some Molotow Liquid Chroming, fitting the window glass and adding chrome bumpers, grille and lights. The radiator and hoses are ready to be fitted, also the battery.

Here's a question for fellow members who may have the answer . . . I have noticed that the radio antenna on a Franklin Mint diecast Hudson Hornet that I have recently purchased is pointing vertically downwards, instead of upwards . . . I did some research, and it seems the radio antenna can be turned through 180°, but the cars that have the antenna in this position do not have a windshield visor fitted. I might want to fit the radio antenna pointing downwards on this build, but would I not be able to fit the windshield visor ?

David

[Slotto]

Great job on the roof! I wish mine came with an engine. I love those 2 red bombs on top of yours

[Anglia105E]

11 hours ago, Slotto said:

Great job on the roof! I wish mine came with an engine. I love those 2 red bombs on top of yours

Thanks Steve . . . As far as I know, all the 1:25 scale Moebius Hudson Hornet kits come with an engine, and they all have the Twin - H - Power air cleaners.

Slightly puzzled ?

David

[bobss396]

Black paint is... a black art to get it to shine. I have some car touch-up black I use, not on bodies so far... The Tamiya TS-4 is pretty nice. I have a metallic black I'd like to use, more forgiving than a straight black.

I paint with a heavy hand. No mist coats ever. For the 1st coat, I turn the body over, get the underside and make the lower parts of the body have good coverage.

Orange peel is unacceptable... at least in the finished model. I heat my paint too, in a pot of tap water in the sink. 10 minutes is good, I refresh the water after 5 minutes. Then shake the hell out of it.

I start most color-sanding with #1500 cloth. Then onto #2000 and onto about #6000. Anything past that clogs up the cloths despite using lots of water. It is tedious work to avoid blowing through the color. I get it close these days and shoot clear over it. Also warmed up. I will tape off areas I don't want to touch. It may take me 3 4 or 5 passes around the body until I like it.

I did a '62 Ford with the 1K clear made by SEM. The last pass was so good I'm not going to polish it out. With my last color coats and clear, I'm on the ragged-edge of at least a sag. Those can be polished out unless they are close to an actual run.

[Anglia105E]

3 hours ago, bobss396 said:

Black paint is... a black art to get it to shine. I have some car touch-up black I use, not on bodies so far... The Tamiya TS-4 is pretty nice. I have a metallic black I'd like to use, more forgiving than a straight black.

I paint with a heavy hand. No mist coats ever. For the 1st coat, I turn the body over, get the underside and make the lower parts of the body have good coverage.

Orange peel is unacceptable... at least in the finished model. I heat my paint too, in a pot of tap water in the sink. 10 minutes is good, I refresh the water after 5 minutes. Then shake the hell out of it.

I start most color-sanding with #1500 cloth. Then onto #2000 and onto about #6000. Anything past that clogs up the cloths despite using lots of water. It is tedious work to avoid blowing through the color. I get it close these days and shoot clear over it. Also warmed up. I will tape off areas I don't want to touch. It may take me 3 4 or 5 passes around the body until I like it.

I did a '62 Ford with the 1K clear made by SEM. The last pass was so good I'm not going to polish it out. With my last color coats and clear, I'm on the ragged-edge of at least a sag. Those can be polished out unless they are close to an actual run.

Thanks Bob . . . Lots of interesting paint techniques within your comment. There are so many different opinions about what should be the best approach, and it probably comes down to personal preferences and actual hands on experience in the end.

My local model building expert did warn me that black is the most difficult colour to get right. I am pleased with my improved paint finish since trying out the Tamiya products. I never did achieve a ' mirror ' paint finish on any of my Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud builds, and there were many of these over the years. Some were quite close, but always falling short of what I wanted to achieve. One day I still hope to get there !

David

[Kenmojr]

Great work!

[Anglia105E]

8 hours ago, Kenmojr said:

Great work!

Thanks a lot Ken !

David