1/24 Italeri Mercedes Benz Actros MP4 GigaSpace

[cifenet]

Same here, I enjoyed the discussions on Italeri kits and detail information on mold making concept as well.  Thanks for that!

Yes, I know what you are referring, I have also built several kits just because mainly the subjects I liked.

I used to have all the energy to correct things as I build, but now I am just getting lazy wanting a perfect kit so I don't even need to putty a thing. 😬

8 minutes ago, Gary Chastain said:

Totally agree, but for the average person who builds a model because he likes it probably does not know the parts are incorrect. I have been on several social media sites and the builders in this forum are probably some of the most informed builders with tons of knowledge shared, they expect a higher level of integrity in the kits they purchase. Why I like reading the builds and learning. 
 

one more thing on part quality and fit. These parts are molded in extremely high performing molding machines, new machines capable of 50,000 psi at the nozzle. Plastic when heated does not transmit pressure very well or consistently due to viscosity change. Therefore the pressure inside the mold (parts and runners) varies. When pressure in the cavity (parts) goes down, the shrink rate goes up ( parts get smaller). When the pressure goes up the shrink rate goes down ( parts are larger) all from the same mold. It is extremely difficult to manage this phenomenon because of the polymerization process of making plastic pellets. This is why sometimes my parts fit really well and I build the same kit a few years later and nothing seems to fit well. 
 

sorry for derailing your build thread but a really good topic. 

 

[cifenet]

Interesting and informative discussions, I thank you gentlemen!

The cabin assembly is something I will think about later, but for now, I am moving forward.

The Hobby Design detail parts help improving the look of existing parts; it helped the mud guards assembly hiding pin marks.

 

Moving onto the engine piping now.  The instructions call for "red" gloss paint here, I used some red shrink tube instead. 

Then wrapped a thin wire to simulate the hose straps.

 

 

These two coolant pipes on the radiator sides gave some problems attaching. They attached to the radiator suspended in the air.  

 

This is another challenge I faced.  As you can see, these two coolant pipes struggled to hold the weight of the radiator.  And I just can't attach the radiator without checking its position which is required in the next step.

 

You may say, no problem, just super glue it! I can simply use CA glue to mount it securely, but then the radiator position has to be correct so it can sit on the radiator support on the frame.  It really is a blind assembly.  I had to repeat the assembly a couple of times till I made everything fit correctly. 

 

With the radiator mounted with coolant pipes on the side, it is a tight fit.  So the correct positioning on everything is vital here. 

 

This is another challenge with an intake (not exhaust) mounting assembly.  This is another blind assembly where the previously mounted location matters.  AMT does this throughout their builds too.  

 

A. is where the intake mount arms are mounted to. 

 

My frame work is almost done, next I should be able to tackle the cabin interior work.

Edited December 31, 2023 by cifenet
Reference correction (exhaust -> intake)

[Force]

Coming along nice Steve.

I wouldn't mind multipiece cabs either if you can build the cab separate and  install the interior afterwards, that would work just fine for me.

But all the inaccuracies I find hard to deal with as I want to build accurate models if I can, and no engine at all is not for me as I find the mechanical bits interesting and you learn a lot from them, so if there is no engine I don't buy if I can't get something to put in there...the Italeri and Revell Volvo VN kits are one of the kits without engine.
I'm most familiar with Volvo and Scania as I'm Swede, and the first kits of them Italeri did, the Volvo F12 and Scania T142H and R142H, was near to accurate, but the later versions of Volvo's and Scanias was not.
The later Volvo F16 kit still had the TD120 engine and the complete chassis the F12 had but should have had a TD162 engine wich is a totally different beast, the cab was correct but the rest wasn't, the only thing the TD120 and TD162 have in common is they are inline 6 engines, Volvo also updated the drive hubs and other things.
The Scania 3 series 143 and 4 series 144 still had the old DS14 from the 142 kits but should have had a DSC14 with intercooler up to the later R series kits but didn't.
Later in the 2000's both Volvo and Scania did totally new engines but Italeri still used the old outdated engines for a long time in newer kits wich should have had the new D12, D13, D16 engines for Volvo and DC 13 and DC16 for Scania, all wich looks totally different from the erlier engines, sometimes they did small updates that was never enough...the recent Volvo FH4 kit does look reasonably correct tho'.
A couple of Italeri kits that's intriguing is the "Club Of Four" cab kits where I don't know what they were thinking about, this was a cab made in Volvo's factory in Gent Belgium and this cab was shared with 4 different manufacturers wich were Volvo, DAF, Magirus- Deutz (Iveco) and Saviem (Renault), thus the "Club Of Four" name, the cab was also used by Mack then owned by Renault, these were distribution or lighter duty trucks.
Italeri did the DAF F1300, the Volvo F6, the Iveco MK and the Renault J-G-series as fire ladder trucks, all with the same kit number 784, all had the same Magirus-Deutz (Iveco) air cooled engine chassis and driveline wich they certainly did not in real life as it was only the basic cab that was the same and the chassis and driveline was different between the 4 makes, the only difference between the different model kits was the grille, the front bumper and decals...that's the pinnacle of inaccuracy if you ask me.

Well lets leave it with that and go back to your build.

Edited December 31, 2023 by Force

[Force]

12 hours ago, cifenet said:

This is another challenge with an exhaust mounting assembly.  This is another blind assembly where the previously mounted location matters.  AMT does this throughout their builds too.  

 

Just an observation.
This is not exhaust, it's the fresh air intake ducting to the turbo.
The exhaust goes from the opposit side of the turbo down to a large square muffler on the side of the frame behind the front wheel/fender.
And yes, the AMT kit instructions are often vague on correct placements too...very vague. 😁

Edited December 31, 2023 by Force

[cifenet]

This is some amazing information and knowledge, Håkan! 

I do like the look of Scania T142H, it has that US truck look.   Maybe I will try building one some day.  Good to know it is a decent kit to start with.

At any rate, let's hope Italeri can get their act correct and start producing more convincing truck kits going forward. 

P.S.- I had wonderful time visiting Stockholm and Gustavsberg right before Covid hit.  It was unexpected, but I must say some of the best patisseries I ever had as well!

 

7 hours ago, Force said:

Coming along nice Steve.

I wouldn't mind multipiece cabs either if you can build the cab separate and  install the interior afterwards, that would work just fine for me.

But all the inaccuracies I find hard to deal with as I want to build accurate models if I can, and no engine at all is not for me as I find the mechanical bits interesting and you learn a lot from them, so if there is no engine I don't buy if I can't get something to put in there...the Italeri and Revell Volvo VN kits are one of the kits without engine.
I'm most familiar with Volvo and Scania as I'm Swede, and the first kits of them Italeri did, the Volvo F12 and Scania T142H and R142H, was near to accurate, but the later versions of Volvo's and Scanias was not.
The later Volvo F16 kit still had the TD120 engine and the complete chassis the F12 had but should have had a TD162 engine wich is a totally different beast, the cab was correct but the rest wasn't, the only thing the TD120 and TD162 have in common is they are inline 6 engines, Volvo also updated the drive hubs and other things.
The Scania 3 series 143 and 4 series 144 still had the old DS14 from the 142 kits but should have had a DSC14 with intercooler up to the later R series kits but didn't.
Later in the 2000's both Volvo and Scania did totally new engines but Italeri still used the old outdated engines for a long time in newer kits wich should have had the new D12, D13, D16 engines for Volvo and DC 13 and DC16 for Scania, all wich looks totally different from the erlier engines, sometimes they did small updates that was never enough...the recent Volvo FH4 kit does look reasonably correct tho'.
A couple of Italeri kits that's intriguing is the "Club Of Four" cab kits where I don't know what they were thinking about, this was a cab made in Volvo's factory in Gent Belgium and this cab was shared with 4 different manufacturers wich were Volvo, DAF, Magirus- Deutz (Iveco) and Saviem (Renault), thus the "Club Of Four" name, the cab was also used by Mack then owned by Renault, these were distribution or lighter duty trucks.
Italeri did the DAF F1300, the Volvo F6, the Iveco MK and the Renault J-G-series as fire ladder trucks, all with the same kit number 784, all had the same Magirus-Deutz (Iveco) air cooled engine chassis and driveline wich they certainly did not in real life as it was only the basic cab that was the same and the chassis and driveline was different between the 4 makes, the only difference between the different model kits was the grille, the front bumper and decals...that's the pinnacle of inaccuracy if you ask me.

Well lets leave it with that and go back to your build.

 

[cifenet]

Thanks for the correction, Håkan!

Hahaha, my honest mistake.   I am so embarrassed!

 

I guess the exhaust outlet is hidden underneath here,  For some reason when I saw a duct pipe shape component, I started referring as an exhaust!

Let me go correct my build diary here. 

 

6 hours ago, Force said:

Just an observation.
This is not exhaust, it's the fresh air intake ducting to the turbo.
The exhaust goes from the opposit side of the turbo down to a large square muffler on the side of the frame behind the front wheel/fender.
And yes, the AMT kit instructions are often vague on correct placements too...very vague. 😁

 

[Force]

4 hours ago, cifenet said:

This is some amazing information and knowledge, Håkan! 

I do like the look of Scania T142H, it has that US truck look.   Maybe I will try building one some day.  Good to know it is a decent kit to start with.

At any rate, let's hope Italeri can get their act correct and start producing more convincing truck kits going forward. 

P.S.- I had wonderful time visiting Stockholm and Gustavsberg right before Covid hit.  It was unexpected, but I must say some of the best patisseries I ever had as well!

 

 

Well my head is filled with useless information and some comes out from time to time. 😉😁

[cifenet]

The GigaSpace is the configuration that you could order and it provides spacious cabin where you can comfortably drive, live, and sleep.

Looking at the specification sheet, the head room is roughly 2.13 meters (84 inches)!

You can stand and walk around inside the cabin.  Not bad at all!     

 

I am slowly attaching each component one by one, and the truck is taking its shape nicely. 

Except a couple of "what to look out for" areas in this build diary, so far my build experience was quite pleasant.  

Yes, the rectangle looking silver box is the exhaust!   

 

I decided not to further detail the brakes. 

Once the wheels are mounted, no disc rotors/calibers will show up.  After all, I am building this to finish quickly.

 

 

I checked the fitment of various components including the air intake system.  

The lower body panels position well also and I verified their attachment locations. 

No unexpected finding so far and I started to "mock" build the cab.

 

Using some masking tape to hold parts, I was able to complete this mock build. 

I examined things as to how I would need to build and paint the cab.

I was basically planning my next move.

 

I really like the look of this truck.  Mercedes Benz did a fantastic job styling and designing this truck.  I cannot believe this design is already 10+ years old though.

Still the truck looks fresh and very modern to my eyes.

By the way, this is when I also realized that I need to build this truck in one of the following configurations:

• Open hood configuration (means the cab in tilted position)
• Closed hood configuration (means the cab in driving position)

The truck does not allow you to open and close the hood (cabin) once you make your choice and build that configuration.

Strangely, the kit does have a functioning mechanism so you can tilt the cab!  See below (red arrows):

BUT the front bumper piece blocks the operation!

I confirmed it with the instructions also, if you are building the truck in opened hood configuration, this is how the truck would look:

 

I can't believe that my only option of displaying/revealing the engine is to make the truck in "Opened Hood Configuration".

I wanted a quick build, but looks like this build may drag longer.

 

 

[Force]

2 hours ago, cifenet said:

The GigaSpace is the configuration that you could order and it provides spacious cabin where you can comfortably drive, live, and sleep.

Looking at the specification sheet, the head room is roughly 2.13 meters (84 inches)!

You can stand and walk around inside the cabin.  Not bad at all!     

 

I am slowly attaching each component one by one, and the truck is taking its shape nicely. 

Except a couple of "what to look out for" areas in this build diary, so far my build experience was quite pleasant.  

Yes, the rectangle looking silver box is the exhaust!   

 

I decided not to further detail the brakes. 

Once the wheels are mounted, no disc rotors/calibers will show up.  After all, I am building this to finish quickly.

 

 

I checked the fitment of various components including the air intake system.  

The lower body panels position well also and I verified their attachment locations. 

No unexpected finding so far and I started to "mock" build the cab.

 

Using some masking tape to hold parts, I was able to complete this mock build. 

I examined things as to how I would need to build and paint the cab.

I was basically planning my next move.

 

I really like the look of this truck.  Mercedes Benz did a fantastic job styling and designing this truck.  I cannot believe this design is already 10+ years old though.

Still the truck looks fresh and very modern to my eyes.

By the way, this is when I also realized that I need to build this truck in one of the following configurations:

• Open hood configuration (means the cab in tilted position)
• Closed hood configuration (means the cab in driving position)

The truck does not allow you to open and close the hood (cabin) once you make your choice and build that configuration.

Strangely, the kit does have a functioning mechanism so you can tilt the cab!  See below (red arrows):

BUT the front bumper piece blocks the operation!

I confirmed it with the instructions also, if you are building the truck in opened hood configuration, this is how the truck would look:

 

I can't believe that my only option of displaying/revealing the engine is to make the truck in "Opened Hood Configuration".

I wanted a quick build, but looks like this build may drag longer.

 

 

Yes the rectangular thing on the side of the chassis is the exhaust, it's the muffler, particle filter and other invironmental friendly economy unfriendly stuff in there together with a lot of other stuff like sensors and thingamagigs on the engine that only gives hassle and are troublesome, that's the Euro 6 rating for you, EPA for the US.

Now to your problem.
If you are able to swing open the grille section on the front of the cab with some kind of hinge instead of glue it in in a fixed position you will be able to tilt the cab up and down as you wish, that's how it's done in the real world, first swing the grille open because it is in the way, then tilt the cab...otherwise some plastic will for sure break when the cab tilts up. 😉
It seems like Italeri have done the same on more kits like the recent Volvo FH4 Globetrotter XL and Scania S730 Highline where it's the same way...on the Scania you have to decide if you want to have the door open or closed also, so you have to come up with something to be able to swing open the grille section if you want to be able to tilt the cab and show it both ways.
Italeri took the easy way out and didn't do anything about it to make it work both ways, but I'm sure it can be done because the pivot points for the cab are there, it's just a matter of getting the grille section out of the way so it woun't interfere with the bumper when you tilt the cab.

Edited January 1 by Force

[cifenet]

8 hours ago, Force said:

If you are able to swing open the grille section on the front of the cab with some kind of hinge instead of glue it in in a fixed position you will be able to tilt the cab up and down as you wish, that's how it's done in the real world, first swing the grille open because it is in the way, then tilt the cab...otherwise some plastic will for sure break when the cab tilts up. 

It seems like Italeri have done the same on more kits like the recent Volvo FH4 Globetrotter XL and Scania S730 Highline where it's the same way...on the Scania you have to decide if you want to have the door open or closed also, so you have to come up with something to be able to swing open the grille section if you want to be able to tilt the cab and show it both ways.
Italeri took the easy way out and didn't do anything about it to make it work both ways, but I'm sure it can be done because the pivot points for the cab are there, it's just a matter of getting the grille section out of the way so it woun't interfere with the bumper when you tilt the cab.

Happy New Year Håkan!

Thanks for the feedback on this and keeping this build with me.

For the problem, maybe I wasn't clear when explaining the issue.  I wish it is the top grille that interferes, but unfortunately it isn't. 

The problem is with these two pieces (two red boxes) having no clearance and preventing the cab movement:

 

To be exact, these four corners (red arrows) get locked in.  Tightly!

After studying the mechanism from my mock build, in order to display the truck in tilted forward position so engine bay is revealed, you must tilt the cab and assemble first, then attach this bottom piece. 

The cab will rest on the top of this bottom piece and it keeps the cab in tilt position.  Wow. 

I am going to modify the hinge (green arrows) so the cab can be pulled upward when tilting is required.  That can provide some extra clearance to tilting and it shouldn't increase the existing height of the cab.  Hopefully, it is a quick fix.

 

8 hours ago, Force said:

Yes the rectangular thing on the side of the chassis is the exhaust, it's the muffler, particle filter and other invironmental friendly economy unfriendly stuff in there together with a lot of other stuff like sensors and thingamagigs on the engine that only gives hassle and are troublesome, that's the Euro 6 rating for you, EPA for the US.

Haha, you are correct, all of the clean diesel components including DPF, EGR, and DEF related stuff always give trouble especially as soon as the vehicle warranty expires!  And I heard they are expensive to fix!  What about that!

 

Edited January 1 by cifenet

[Force]

21 hours ago, cifenet said:

Happy New Year Håkan!

Thanks for the feedback on this and keeping this build with me.

For the problem, maybe I wasn't clear when explaining the issue.  I wish it is the top grille that interferes, but unfortunately it isn't. 

The problem is with these two pieces (two red boxes) having no clearance and preventing the cab movement:

 

To be exact, these four corners (red arrows) get locked in.  Tightly!

After studying the mechanism from my mock build, in order to display the truck in tilted forward position so engine bay is revealed, you must tilt the cab and assemble first, then attach this bottom piece. 

The cab will rest on the top of this bottom piece and it keeps the cab in tilt position.  Wow. 

I am going to modify the hinge (green arrows) so the cab can be pulled upward when tilting is required.  That can provide some extra clearance to tilting and it shouldn't increase the existing height of the cab.  Hopefully, it is a quick fix.

 

Haha, you are correct, all of the clean diesel components including DPF, EGR, and DEF related stuff always give trouble especially as soon as the vehicle warranty expires!  And I heard they are expensive to fix!  What about that!

 

Hmm...strange design...it looks like Italeri has made the parts too large, so it looks like you have to trim off a bit on both sides to make it tilt freely then, I would trim some of the bottom edge on the front wall and maybe a little on the bumper part just enough to make room to tilt the cab and not interfere, that way it doesn't show much when the cab is down and the grille is closed.
For the up position there must also be a way to make it work. 
The upper part of the grille swings out so it should not be a problem and it works in real life so one must be able to get it to work on a model.

Edited January 2 by Force

[cifenet]

Made more progress.  I need to finish this truck quick with quality. 

The interior work is started and for simplicity, I decided to use two tone interior with no other additional details.

 

I am going to paint the exterior cab as one piece. 

As I mentioned from previous post, Italeri doesn't want you to do that.  But I will make some small modification to the kit to allow it!

Italeri steps:

1. build/paint interior cabin
2. paint each exterior panel
3. attach exterior panels around the interior cabin

My steps:

1. build/paint interior cabin
2. modify the interior cabin so it can be detached from the exterior
3. attach unpainted exterior panels around the interior cabin (except the back panel)
4. fill/putty joint seams
5. take out the interior cabin
6. paint the cab as one piece
7. reassemble the interior by inserting back to the cab

I didn't mean to complicate things, but looks like I just did!

 

My intention was not to add interior cabin details here, but I did work on "minor" ones. 

For the interior cabin assembly, P/E sets are used.  In this case, sun visors, floor mats, and speaker covers. 

I don't know how much it will improve the overall look though.  It is going to be quite dark to see inside once the truck is completed.

 

The kit has great details already!   Again, I made no attempt to further detail these other than paint in black.

 

Painting time!  Roughly took 30 minutes and I am assembling things right away.  Lacquer paints do dry quick and hence I can work quicker here. 

 

I used Sandy Brown from Mr. Hobby for beige tone and used semi gloss black for contrast. 

Basic seat belt material is included in the Hobby Design detail kit, so I added two seat belts. 

 

Some aluminum trims  were added using metal foil strips.  I believe the interior cabin work is done here and the interior work took about an hour from start to finish.

 

I also started to add details for fuel tanks.  First I simulated the rubber gaskets for the tank straps using flat black and then added the P/E tank straps on top. 

The tank straps were painted with black primer which should provide paint-chip resistant finish.

 

This is how I was able to insert/remove the interior cabin.

I cut away the cabin floor from each side(about 0.25 inches).

Then carefully glued all of the exterior panels except the back panel.  

This setup allows me to insert the cabin interior from the back and push up.  To remove the interior cabin, I can pull it down and back.  

I can simply glue the back when everything is done.  The joint seam is actually hidden for the back panel so I am hoping everything will work out.

Lastly, the bottom will be covered with a thin styrene sheet so no one will know what I did...

 

Filling the gap and seam everywhere.  This was the step that I wanted to do prior to painting.  So far so good. 

A new problem: tilting the cab forward lifts the back end.  I will need to add some weight somewhere... 

If I were to build this kit next time (I do want to build one properly!), I may add clay or play-doh inside of those fuel tanks to balance the weight.

 

My next step- painting the body!

 

 

Edited January 3 by cifenet

[iamsuperdan]

Your build is coming along beautifully!

 

A couple of notes about the multi-piece cabs. 

I've built a few of these Italeri kits, and have used a few different methods. 

 

The most successful for me...

First, I assembled the cab, then painted and detailed it, then installed the interior. Was a bit of a challenge to force it in there, but it worked. This may not work for all of their kits though.

Second time, I built according to the instructions, fully detailed the interior, painted the window trim, assembled everything, then masked off the windows and trim, then filled, sanded, painted, decaled, and cleared the exterior. I learned this from a couple of friends who do aircraft modelling. I'll be using this method on the next Italeri kit I build, the Scania S730 Highline.

 

Seeing your skills though, I think you have a pretty good handle on building this. Looks fantastic so far!

[cifenet]

Hi Dan,

Thanks for the positive words and your feedback on this!

As I was building the cab assembly, I was kept asking myself multiple times in disbelief- "is this right?  Am I doing something wrong here??" 

Right, your second method makes sense to me.  I suppose I could have done this way also, but my small concern would have been “masking” things.

The required technique is to mask things perfectly and I will definitely consider this option in the future though.

I do respect Italeri for producing their truck kits this way when obviously it is so painful to build the cab for us builders.  

I guess it is true what they say, no pain, no gain! 

 

3 hours ago, iamsuperdan said:

Your build is coming along beautifully!

 

A couple of notes about the multi-piece cabs. 

I've built a few of these Italeri kits, and have used a few different methods. 

 

The most successful for me...

First, I assembled the cab, then painted and detailed it, then installed the interior. Was a bit of a challenge to force it in there, but it worked. This may not work for all of their kits though.

Second time, I built according to the instructions, fully detailed the interior, painted the window trim, assembled everything, then masked off the windows and trim, then filled, sanded, painted, decaled, and cleared the exterior. I learned this from a couple of friends who do aircraft modelling. I'll be using this method on the next Italeri kit I build, the Scania S730 Highline.

 

Seeing your skills though, I think you have a pretty good handle on building this. Looks fantastic so far!

 

Edited January 3 by cifenet

[Rockford]

Very resourceful and I'm sure the finished product will be impressive. As for the ballast situation, are the tyres hollow? Would they come off the rims and take a bit of ballast inside? 

I remember tilting the cab on a Scania 111 (I think)and was careful to empty everything I could out of the cab. The driver forgot about a pair of pliers under his mattress though. Straight through the windscreen! 

[cifenet]

9 hours ago, Rockford said:

Very resourceful and I'm sure the finished product will be impressive. As for the ballast situation, are the tyres hollow? Would they come off the rims and take a bit of ballast inside? 

I remember tilting the cab on a Scania 111 (I think)and was careful to empty everything I could out of the cab. The driver forgot about a pair of pliers under his mattress though. Straight through the windscreen! 

Yes!  That is an excellent idea!!  Thanks, Steve!

Let me see if I can insert and glue small stainless balls (which I have).  I just need some counter weight and this will definitely do the trick.

[Force]

It's not only that the Euro tractors look front heavy with the short wheelbase and COE cab, they are front heavy.
Like many of the airplane kits you have to weigh it down so it will stay on all wheels and the weight in the tires was a great idea.

[cifenet]

23 hours ago, Force said:

It's not only that the Euro tractors look front heavy with the short wheelbase and COE cab, they are front heavy.
Like many of the airplane kits you have to weigh it down so it will stay on all wheels and the weight in the tires was a great idea.

Right, I ended up adding small round magnets, it took 4 total to level the truck.  Worked like charm! 

I will be definitely watch out for this next time.

It could be just me, but it made the truck stand better also.  

 

 

Edited January 5 by cifenet

[cifenet]

Instead of using typical sand paper, I have been using sanding sticks.  I think they are better and easier to handle. 

My routine is usually starts away from 400# and go up to 600# to 800# for normal sanding work.  I usually end up around 2000# grits, but not always.  For cleaning out a detached part, I usually stop at 800#.    

I bought these generic brand sanding sticks from online (not expensive) and while they perform as expected, I think the sticks wear out quick and still require some work to sand things smooth.  

 

I search of something better, I tried something more expensive and made in USA. 

These are from a company called DuraSand and they have different colors for different grits:

Again, I think these work slightly better and easily last longer, but I still feel like I am still spending efforts to sand simple parts. 

At the end, it could be my method that needs to improve, but I would like to know if you guys have your "golden" sanding method or tool, I would like to know!  

 

[cifenet]

My body painting session is currently on-going and I used the following paint as my base:

 

For the gloss black finish, I skipped applying the surface primer here because I wanted smoother paint finish with minimum thickness and also this is supposed to be a "quicker" build.

The paint job came out with some minor paint defects, but I am going to polish using various polishing pads and polishing compounds on the entire body surface.

 

I have my dedicated polishing box which has all kinds of polish pads and polishing rags.   Whenever I open this box, I know I am in for a long boring session...

 

Black is not my final color, it is going to be a base for silver.  My surface must be smooth though, hence my polishing work is needed.  I blamed myself for not being too careful, I rubbed away the top coat at too many places.  I will need to address these later.

 

As I was working to prep the painted body panels, I also added small details around the frame. 

It took some time to figure out what it really was, but it is a wheel choke! 

My other guesses were "mini parachute" and some kind of "liquid dispenser".  I am thinking it must be an European regulation similar to the carrying a safety vest or warning triangles?  

Nonetheless, the mount position is interesting here, it almost blocks a view of a rear license plate too.        

 

Italeri kit has a great amount of details out of box.  I only added a few P/E parts from Hobby Design detail kit and yet the truck is full of details.

 

If I add a big turret and some body armor around, I can almost pass this Actros as M577 APC from the Aliens movie!  Don't you agree!?

 

Also added P/E frame floor parts and they really enhanced the "metal" finish to the truck.  I intentionally painted those two fuel tanks (one on each side) with different aluminum shade to make things more interesting.

I also re-attached the real wheels as wide as possible without hitting the wheel guards on the top.  The wider they are, the better looking I feel~

 

Getting closer, but still many items left to take care of...

 

Edited January 5 by cifenet

[Gary Chastain]

12 hours ago, cifenet said:

Instead of using typical sand paper, I have been using sanding sticks.  I think they are better and easier to handle. 

My routine is usually starts away from 400# and go up to 600# to 800# for normal sanding work.  I usually end up around 2000# grits, but not always.  For cleaning out a detached part, I usually stop at 800#.    

I bought these generic brand sanding sticks from online (not expensive) and while they perform as expected, I think the sticks wear out quick and still require some work to sand things smooth.  

 

I search of something better, I tried something more expensive and made in USA. 

These are from a company called DuraSand and they have different colors for different grits:

Again, I think these work slightly better and easily last longer, but I still feel like I am still spending efforts to sand simple parts. 

At the end, it could be my method that needs to improve, but I would like to know if you guys have your "golden" sanding method or tool, I would like to know!  

 

I have been making sanding sticks for years, going to the interweb and look those up. Thanks for posting those. 

[cifenet]

Hey Gary,

The ones I bought online (those I mentioned in the previous post) are decent, the best part is that they are padded (so the padded stick contours better) and long in shape.

You can make one (or two) swiping motion to sand things away.  I am hoping to try different things though, I have seen very fine metal files, I am thinking about giving that a try. 

On 1/5/2024 at 11:07 AM, Gary Chastain said:

I have been making sanding sticks for years, going to the interweb and look those up. Thanks for posting those. 

 

 

Edited January 7 by cifenet

[cifenet]

I am going through multiple painting sessions and things are not moving fast.  I may not have much update today, but thought I should still share some contents.

I really do want to build a black truck someday, but not with this one.  I want this to be a cold silver truck.

 

 

I did start out with a black truck and in my opinion, Actros in black looks quite good with this beige interior.

 

Once I finished with prepping the surface, I began mixing my own silver paint.  I used Finisher's CLK Silver (this is indeed German color) and Super Duralumin to enhance metallic feel to the finish. 

I mixed in the ratio of 3:1 using above two paints.  

 

This how I store\use the paint during my painting session.  This is pre-mixed and pre-thinned, it really is ready to paint.  No mistake, no fuss, and gives you minimum color discrepancy between painting sessions.  

There are many advantages of making own paint dispenser bottle and I really recommend to do this (unless you guys are painting from spray cans). 

I mentioned how to do this in my previous WIP:

 

The link is also here if you are interested in details:

https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/181872-125-revell-peterbilt-359/page/1

 

My first coat is done.  The color is quite bright, my camera is having hard time capturing the color correctly. 

If I am not careful when taking a photo of it, the color will come out as dark gray!

 

A close up pic on the silver finish here.  Based on how the light hits, the silver shade can come out much darker as you can see here.  At any rate, I am quite happy with my initial painting session.

I also pre-drilled a hole on each headlight.  I will drill them out completely and insert my own headlights to enhance the look later.

 

Italeri provided license plates from entire Europe for this truck here.

I started to wonder what would have been their motivation for doing this...  Instead of this kind of effort, please provide one piece cab.

 

French plates caught my eyes and I decided to make this a French truck till I screw up.  

I applied a couple of clear coats on plates thinking shiny plates would look much better (like those GB license plates), but it caused all kinds of trouble here.

The license plate backing pieces were ever-so-slightly smaller then decals, the license plate decal edges curled back up essentially ruining them. 

"No problem", I said.  I still have 38 other countries to choose from!

It is quite ironic though, Italeri went all out and gave us all these license plate decals to apply.  And yet the supplied license plate holders are small to use correctly. 

 

I can't believe I went from black to silver in one day.

Next, I will start applying clear coat to the truck.

Edited January 7 by cifenet

[Rockford]

Looks fantastic that mate. You're learning what European trucks are like, so cluttered there's no room for anything, and they're so complex that they're a bear to work on. You're doing a great job though. 

[Gary Chastain]

Your attention to detail and your skills are really doing this project justice, well done