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Posted
1 hour ago, Gary Chastain said:

Impressive detail work Brian. 

Thanks, Gary - its been challenging!  I appreciate the comments along the way!

  • Like 1
Posted

Incredible work.  Did I say outstanding!!!  Knowing your stuff and then translating it into a model like this is a real example of talent and a special gift.  Thanks for bringing us along on this ride.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, Chariots of Fire said:

Incredible work.  Did I say outstanding!!!  Knowing your stuff and then translating it into a model like this is a real example of talent and a special gift.  Thanks for bringing us along on this ride.

Thanks, Charles, for stopping by to have a look and for the generous comments!  Some days the 'ride' is a little bumpy, but still moving forward.  Thanks again.

Edited by BK9300
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Been carrying on with work on the sander - have spent a lot of time on this part of the build, but there is a lot to build and put together!  Before much more could be done, I needed to fix in place the hard line hydraulic runs along the side of the sander.  Once they were in place, I started laying out some wiring runs - there's an electrical junction box on the rear/side of the sander, distributing power to various lights on the sander, power to the pre-wet pump housing, as well as amber clearance lights on the wing plow, side of the hopper, over the underbody plow and the sander's roto-lights.

First of three hard lines to install -

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Wasn't sure how I was going to get CA glue into the tight spots on the hopper support ribs to attach hard lines - found this great set of loops (package of 10, PE loops) that allow me to pick up a small amount of CA glue and carefully place the glue where needed.  Had to clean the loop out lots along the way, but sure was handy

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Was able to apply glue quiet easily with this attachment

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All three hard lines in

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a quick mock up 

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started laying out lengths of wire for sander's wiring harness - going to try to get some PE zip ties to work!

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With any (a lot of!) luck, should be able to install the wiring harness tomorrow - it will need to run inside the trio of hard lines - not looking forward to that!  

 

Edited by BK9300
typo
  • Like 3
Posted
4 hours ago, Biggu said:

Jaw dropping good and expertly precise . This needs to be in a magazine !

Thanks, Jeff - always appreciate your comments and support along the way!  (too many pics for a magazine!)

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

After I made my posting last night, I was cleaning up the work area, getting ready to call it a night, and thought I would try one of the PE zip ties, just to see how much work it might take in the morning.  However, one turned out good, so I did a few more, did a photo of the wiring harness and then started in on putting the harness on the sander.  I'd gone this far so, after a few hours (2 in the am, I think), I had the harness in.  It was a struggle, and some touch up painting will need to be done, but a big step accomplished!

Wiring harness zip-tied where needed and labeled to be sure I had the wires I needed - can't (or won't!) replicate every little wire, but the majority of the sander wiring is incorporated in this harness;  there will still be wiring to run from the junction box at the back, to the rear brake lights and upper rear sander amber flashing lights

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The thickest 'wire' is a sheath for the power supply wiring, the blue wire is a three-wire line that runs back to wing plow amber warning light, and the black wires are two-wire runs to the hopper side light and the roto light at the top, front of the sander

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Had to put some tape on the wires in order to 'pull' them into place

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After much muttering and angst, the harness was tucked and pulled into space between trio of hydraulic hard lines - black wire up side of hopper is for light to shine on wing plow

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Wires up side of rear support rib will tie into junction box and three wires continue further back - two for pre-wet pump and one for the sand conveyor speed sensor

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Blue wire off side of fender will end up at amber warning light on wing plow and you can see a black wire running through side wall of hopper and up to service the roto-light.  The other wires will terminate at a couple places under the cab

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Have to terminate the wiring at the pre-wet pump and then move on to some hydraulic hoses for the conveyor drive motor!  Again, lots of pics, so thanks for taking the time to have a look - much appreciated!

Edited by BK9300
error in description
  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, Gary Chastain said:

Just speechless at the detail. 

Gary , I just figured this out … this is not a model , it’s the real sander photo shopped on to Brian’s bench ! Thats what this is. ! I’ve seen these being built and this is EXACTLY how they go. This is MUSEUM class workmanship and what I would call a world class build. Highly detailed and the finest accuracy, with amazing scratch building techniques and skill. Believe me when I say there is NO detail missed.
Jeff  

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Gary Chastain said:

Just speechless at the detail. 

My goal when I started was to build a detailed model - I may have let it get away on me!

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Biggu said:

Gary , I just figured this out … this is not a model , it’s the real sander photo shopped on to Brian’s bench ! Thats what this is. ! I’ve seen these being built and this is EXACTLY how they go. This is MUSEUM class workmanship and what I would call a world class build. Highly detailed and the finest accuracy, with amazing scratch building techniques and skill. Believe me when I say there is NO detail missed.
Jeff  

Hey, Jeff - very flattering words - feeling a bit humbled!

Hoping you can answer a question about the wing plow lights. In the pic below, the two red 'lights' on the wing plow look to be just reflectors - is that the case as you know it? (the wiring to this housing only looks to be enough to run the amber flashing light on the reverse side at the top, and not brake lights as well)

DSC00050.JPG.501462277f2e7d021dd793b82524e8bf.JPG

 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
19 minutes ago, BK9300 said:

Hey, Jeff - very flattering words - feeling a bit humbled!

Hoping you can answer a question about the wing plow lights. In the pic below, the two red 'lights' on the wing plow look to be just reflectors - is that the case as you know it? (the wiring to this housing only looks to be enough to run the amber flashing light on the reverse side at the top, and not brake lights as well)

DSC00050.JPG.501462277f2e7d021dd793b82524e8bf.JPG

 

I speak true words , your talents are out of bounds.  On the truck I drove with the wing was a slightly different configuration. Mine was a front mount style, meaning it was mounted ahead of the right front wheel and had to be ‘fed’ by the front plow , but with that said we had to mount bright strobe lights on the wing so as to warn potential nitwits who thought passing an active plow truck on the right was a good idea, from hitting the wing and crashing the plow truck and their own car.  So the wing lights were flashing strobes so the wing could be seen from behind while in the lowered plow position. There were no reflectors as they would not be seen with the blowing snow from the plowing action and accumulated snow on the wing. No brake lights on the wing that I used. Just flashing strobes as when in the lowered plowing position we were WAY over width. We needed a blanket over width permit when the wing was mounted to the truck. Our rear mounted wing had the same set up with a flashing strobe due to width. Does that make sense? Sometimes I get a bit ‘wordy’ trying to paint a clear picture. I liked the front mount wing much better than the rear mount as I could easily see it and was easier to judge my plowing position.  I have to admit though, the extra weight on the f/a could cause some potential extra strain on the King Pins, wheel bearings and rims. 

Edited by Biggu
Posted
5 minutes ago, Biggu said:

I speak true words , your talents are out of bounds.  On the truck I drove with the wing was a slightly different configuration. Mine was a front mount style, meaning it was mounted ahead of the right front wheel and had to be ‘fed’ by the front plow , but with that said we had to mount bright strobe lights on the wing so as to warn potential nitwits who thought passing an active plow truck on the right was a good idea, from hitting the wing and crashing the plow truck and their own car.  So the wing lights were flashing strobes so the wing could be seen from behind while in the lowered plow position. There were no reflectors as they would not be seen with the blowing snow from the plowing action and accumulated snow on tje wing. No brake lights on the wing that I used. Just flashing strobes as when in the lowered plowing position we were WAY over width. We needed a blanket over width permit when the wing was mounted to the truck. Our rear mounted wing had the same set up with a flashing strobe due to width. Does that make sense?

Makes good sense, and in keeping with the single wire going to the housing on the wing plow - I put the same red lights on the wing plow as I used for brake lights on the sander, so should be reasonable looking.  Thanks!

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Not sure how nutsy crazy you want to get detailing but there is a ‘loop’ affair on the very top of the wing to facilitate a hook for lifting for install and removing the wing with a loader, also are you doing an extendable underbody?  Of so it also had a single strobe that Ken wired up with a switch so it came on automatically when extended and shut off when retracted . We also had an orange flag on the outer top edge of the wing but in my case it usually got busted off with the snow being thrown from the one way. Those flags on the front bumpers of the trucks was a carry over from our Highways days. Oh and one other little detail, we used to add an extra chunk of cutting edge to the toe of the blade about 3 feet or so because the toe was the first part of the wing to touch the road surface and it naturally would wear a bit more than the rest of the cutting edge so by adding a short piece there would be more ‘meat’ before we started grinding the mold board. 

Edited by Biggu
Posted
28 minutes ago, Biggu said:

Not sure how nutsy crazy you want to get detailing but there is a ‘loop’ affair on the very top of the wing to facilitate a hook for lifting for install and removing the wing with a loader, also are you doing an extendable underbody?  Of so it also had a single strobe that Ken wired up with a switch so it came on automatically when extended and shut off when retracted . We also had an orange flag on the outer top edge of the wing but in my case it usually got busted off with the snow being thrown from the one way. Those flags on the front bumpers of the trucks was a carry over from our Highways days. Oh and one other little detail, we used to add an extra chunk of cutting edge to the toe of the blade about 3 feet or so because the toe was the first part of the wing to touch the road surface and it naturally would wear a bit more than the rest of the cutting edge so by adding a short piece there would be more ‘meat’ before we started grinding the mold board. 

I hadn't noticed the lifting loop before, but there is one on the wing plow of the truck I'm modeling.  Haven't done final coat of paint on the wing plow yet, so maybe I can still incorporate one.  No extendable underbody, but I am going to try for the work lights in the pic below (quite a flimsy light mount at 1/24 scale on top of hydraulic filter, but maybe I can make a slightly bigger mounting plate).

Right hand light shines down on outlet area of underbody

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Thanks for the suggestion!

  • Like 2
Posted

There was a yellow light facing down towards the chain on some units. I loved that because I could tell right away if I had a chain issue. Most underbody lights were on the driver’s side so you could see it with the convex mirror. Some of our units had the back up lights mounted on the mirrors and some mounted down low which was really good for chaining up. We had one that had those mounts plus two right on the back of the truck on a switch. 

Posted (edited)

Got the sander's brake lights 'wired' today, along with several of the connections to the junction box.  Working with tweezers and fingers that are a bit shaky, I managed to chip some paint on the right side and break off a small part of a valve support on the left side - if there's any good to come of that, its that most of it will be hidden underneath the valve.  Have to see what kind of a repair I can manage.  Overall, I need to be satisfied with the wiring outcome so far, and move along!

 

While looking through my cell phone to take a pic, and trying to grab the wire with tweezers, I managed to break an ear off a valve support bracket - got the wire through the first grommet, though!

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There will be two spot lights on this side of the sander, eventually

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Wiring crosses underneath sand conveyor frame through rubber hose

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Both brake light housings wired in 

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Several connections to junction box made - loose blue wire is for a spot lower on the right side and the remaining empty connection carries the wiring on to the two upper flashing lights and a roto-light at back of sander - need to wait for some black stripe decals to go on end panel of sander hopper before I can finish these lights

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Been saying some hydraulic hoses will be coming, for last two or three posts - they're coming soon - wiring has taken longer than I thought!

 

Edited by BK9300
typo and wrong picture
  • Like 3
Posted
3 hours ago, Steve H said:

Wow Brian, this is absolutely incredible!! Your attention to detail, and scratch building skills are outstanding. Very nice! 

Thanks, Steve - I appreciate the comments!  (been watching your cyber punk build and paying attention to all the body work - lots of changes going on there!)

  • Like 1
Posted
11 hours ago, Biggu said:

Just stunning !!

Thanks, Jeff! (got distracted earlier and didn't finish responding to comments)

  • Like 1
Posted
8 hours ago, Jürgen M. said:

I get dizzy when I see all those details. I´m speechless! Perfect build! I believe not even the real thing is built with such passion and quality!

Thanks, Jurgen!  I was fortunate to have spent lots of time around these trucks and took lots of pictures.  Thankfully, have lots of time to add in the details - I might do them quicker, though, if I added 3D printing to the mix like you have!

  • Like 1
Posted

I think speed is not important in this hobby!

You're doing such a great job without printing.

Believe me, there's a lot of rework neccessary on printed parts If you are not willing to buy a printer from 1000€ and above.

You can tell when you look at my builds up close.

The surface needs lots of attention and the material is so hard, you'll have to use diamond sandpaper in order to smoothen it. 

Means, you only have the chance of a good surface If you use a fill primer and a few more layers of paint than usual.

I chose printing because I wanted to build trucks you can't buy as a kit and the resin or printed ones you can purchase are extremely expensive.

Anyway, keep going! You couldn't do a better job! It's really fun watching!

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Had been hand painting several little valves, hose fittings, and a couple touch ups on sander.  In between coats, I tried to get the material for the sander's mud flaps sorted out.  Awhile back at the hobby store, the owner showed me a roll of clear vinyl, 0.25 mm thick x 8 inches wide, minimum 3 feet to be purchased (she couldn't remember what she had ordered it for), and I picked up some.  Also some time back, I found, and ordered, a small roll of 0.5 mm silicone rubber on Amazon (20 in. x 20 in.).  The clear vinyl needed to be painted with Dupli-color Vinyl and Fabric flat black and the silicone rubber needed to be sanded lightly to remove a surface sheen.  Comparisons of two sample mud flaps follow.

 

0.5mm black silicone rubber strip and 0.25mm clear vinyl materials (silicone rubber was too shiny after removing protective plastic cover)

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this is the .25mm clear vinyl after two light coats of Dupli-color Vinyl and Fabric flat black - not easy to see, but has a realistic texture from the two light coats and the vinyl retained flexibility without the paint cracking

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when I saw the side view pic, it seemed the .25mm (roughly 1/4" scaled up) was too thin

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View of .5mm silicone rubber scuffed and temporarily in place (not the final size of mud flap)

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This view shows a better looking thickness (just less than 1/2" scaled up).  Sample flap has good flexibility but still needs a bit more scuffing, given the reflection of the sander frame.  Think this material may be a winner!

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Thanks for stopping by!

 

 

Edited by BK9300
typo
  • Like 2

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