Service Truck Kitbash

[Jürgen M.]

If you're interested, my ACX is in this WIP in page 5.

The cranes aren't telescopic but self designed and printed, just like the whole truck!

[PHPaul]

Those are nice folding cranes!  I want to build a knuckle-boom crane.  I've done one and learned a lot but it's not even up to MY standards, which isn't saying much.  

I'll build another using lessons learned and more 3D prints.  The first one was built from scratch with plastic shapes.

 

[Jürgen M.]

I think your stuff looks pretty cool! Very nice looking parts! Can't wait to see more!

[PHPaul]

Body is coming along.  Several interior partitions to install between compartments and some filling and sanding on the joints.

Plan A is to mount the doors as "plug mount" in the original cutouts.  Trying to find a way to make hinges that are somewhere near scale and not too fussy to make.  These look too big to me.  Suggestions?  

I've seen some photo etch piano hinges but can't tell if they actually work or are just decorative.

[Rockford]

The piano hinges do work but I can imagine it would be a tremendous task with all the doors you have there. 

[PHPaul]

Yup, mounting doors is going to be tedious for sure.  Right up there with cutting them out to begin with.

Do you have a specific source for the hinges?

[Chariots of Fire]

Piano hinges small enough to look right are not available any more.  Too bad.  I have made good hinges out of small brass tubing using CA to glue them to the edge of the door panel.  Clean the brass well first.  Lay down the panel on a flat surface, lay the brass tubing beside it and spread a thin layer of CA along the joint.  Then after that is dry turn the panel over and do the same again, wiping away the excess CA.  I'll put together a how to for doing this and post it.

[Rockford]

Sorry for sending you down a blind alley. Charles is more attuned to this stuff than myself. He'll do you proud. 

[Chariots of Fire]

Here is a quick tutorial on how to make a door hinge using brass and plastic sheet stock.  You may really have to search for tubing and wire to fit inside but it's out there.  In case you are wondering about the bond between the brass and plastic, it holds pretty well.  Just make sure the brass is clean by sanding it lightly to give it some "tooth".  Lay the CA fully along the joint and then wipe off the excess.  Do this to both sides.  As noted below the tubing will be slightly higher than the sheet stock on one side since both the tube and sheet are laid flat together.  This is good because the wire insert in the tubing needs to be slightly outside the body panel for this to work.

Note:  The wedges you make will be really small.  I drill the hole out first in the sheet brass and then cut the wedge out using my Dremel with a cutting disc.  You want them small so that when everything is done it looks like the door actually swings on the hinge and not on the wedges.  

I used this technique to make the hinges for the cabinet doors on the M-20 Prime Mover.  Here's a look at the doors in the open position.  In the first photo the wedge on the right front is visible.  In this case I was able to notch the plastic below it and set the wedge in place that way.  The next photo shows the doors closed.  Wedges are nearly invisible.  And on the left side door you can make out the brass tube that is glued to the cover.  The wedges sit just outside the end of the tube so that the door is always in the right location.  There is no moving of the door (or cover in this case) from side to side.

Hope all this helps.  Would love to hear if anyone tries it and how it works out.  Check in with me if you have any questions.

[Biggu]

Thats fantastic. Great tutorial. ! 

[Biggu]

If you want to 'cheat' there are these out there....

https://stsupplyco.com/collections/cab-hood-parts/products/trailer-side-box-18mm-lowboy-tall-style-3d-printed-trailer-parts-copy

And NOT taking anything away from Charles's great tutorial, and his are  probably much cheaper financially, but this is an option, I have two sets and they are nicely done and work..... just a thought....... you can email Paul and ask when he will have more, he is great to deal with.....................

Jeff

[Jürgen M.]

You guys are really full of good ideas! 

I used these hinges for the doors of my Pete:

They're 8 x 10 MMS, 0.5mms thin. They work great. Available at Amazon! 

Edited October 15, 2024 by Jürgen M.

[PHPaul]

49 minutes ago, Biggu said:

If you want to 'cheat' there are these out there....

https://stsupplyco.com/collections/cab-hood-parts/products/trailer-side-box-18mm-lowboy-tall-style-3d-printed-trailer-parts-copy

And NOT taking anything away from Charles's great tutorial, and his are  probably much cheaper financially, but this is an option, I have two sets and they are nicely done and work..... just a thought....... you can email Paul and ask when he will have more, he is great to deal with.....................

Jeff

Hmmmmmmmm...printed hinges.  Hadn't thought of that, I'll try printing a set and see how that goes.

[Jürgen M.]

I actually printed hinges myself once when I built the TJ!

Worked out pretty well but they're quite fragile too.

Had to reprint them a couple of times.

[PHPaul]

First set was very close,  made a couple of adjustments, printing the second set now.  They're a bit large for the scale, but if they work, a LOT less fussing than other methods.  

We shall see.

[Jürgen M.]

Good luck! ??

[Chariots of Fire]

2 hours ago, Jürgen M. said:

You guys are really full of good ideas! 

I used these hinges for the doors of my Pete:

They're 8 x 10 MMS, 0.5mms thin. They work great. Available at Amazon! 

I like the small "H" hinges from Micro-Mark.  They are only 4.5 mm x 6mm overall and the hinge part that you see is only about 3.5 mm.  Pretty close for 1/25 scale.  They come with the center pin and a bunch of mounting pins as well.

[Gary Chastain]

Great conversation here, taking notes. 

[Jürgen M.]

Those seem to be even better in size! Thanks for the Info!

Taking notes like Gary!

[PHPaul]

After 5 iterations, I went with something very similar to what @Jürgen M.  used on his Jeep.  Versions 1-3 were variations on a piano hinge but alignment and clearance was problematic.  Version 4 was a single hinge as shown, Version 5 was just a size tweak to make the pin fit better.  They are 3mm barrels with a 1.75mm bore and a 3x3mm mounting plate.  Pins will be 1.1mm brass rod.  Oversize holes are to allow for shrinkage as they cool.

Now to assemble 40 of these things...(4 per door times 10 doors)

 

Edited October 16, 2024 by PHPaul

[PHPaul]

Somewhat humorous aside:

I'm from the USA.  We don't DO metric, it's a point of pride with us (or at least me...) to stick with the traditional (and admittedly unwieldy) Imperial system.

However, when I started using TinkerCAD the default unit was metric and I just got in the habit of using it.  Also, using 1mm=1 inch is VERY close to 1/25 scale which is quite handy when designing things from scratch.  The metric system is kinda handy sometimes...

Of course, if you quote me I'll deny ever saying such an heretical thing!   

[PHPaul]

It looks like this hinge design is going to work.  A bit large for the scale, but the truck is driven by a mechanic who's favorite tool is a hammer, so that's not all bad.  

Plan A is small, individual pins top and bottom, assuming that's strong enough.  The door side hinges were glued in place first, then when fully set up, the full length rod was installed to facilitate placement of the frame side hinges.  Full length doesn't look horrible tho.  If I go that way, I'll need more brass stock.

I've started fairing the body work with glazing putty, I see I missed a spot.

Edited October 16, 2024 by PHPaul

[Jürgen M.]

4 hours ago, PHPaul said:

After 5 iterations, I went with something very similar to what @Jürgen M.  used on his Jeep.  Versions 1-3 were variations on a piano hinge but alignment and clearance was problematic.  Version 4 was a single hinge as shown, Version 5 was just a size tweak to make the pin fit better.  They are 3mm barrels with a 1.75mm bore and a 3x3mm mounting plate.  Pins will be 1.1mm brass rod.  Oversize holes are to allow for shrinkage as they cool.

Now to assemble 40 of these things...(4 per door times 10 doors)

 

I'm honored! Glad my Idea helped you! 

[Chariots of Fire]

Hey, Paul.  Can I make a suggestion?  Instead of thickly printed hinges try some small plastic tubing such as made by Contrail Model Aircraft.  English made but they come in 5 sizes from 0.020 to 0.080.  You could add a tab of thin strip stock to the edge as support.  Obviously each one would have to be cut to the proper length but it would reduce the look if your hinges are going to be outside like you show.  I used the smallest one on the tailgate of the M-20 above.  Brass rod fits nicely inside with no slop.  And since it is plastic it glues up nicely.

[PHPaul]

Just now, Chariots of Fire said:

Hey, Paul.  Can I make a suggestion?  Instead of thickly printed hinges try some small plastic tubing such as made by Contrail Model Aircraft.  English made but they come in 5 sizes from 0.020 to 0.080.  You could add a tab of thin strip stock to the edge as support.  Obviously each one would have to be cut to the proper length but it would reduce the look if your hinges are going to be outside like you show.  I used the smallest one on the tailgate of the M-20 above.  Brass rod fits nicely inside with no slop.  And since it is plastic it glues up nicely.

I'll look into it, thanks!