Aaronw Posted April 26, 2009 Posted April 26, 2009 I recently noticed Micromark has some metal casting supplies. The process seems very similar to resin casting and even appears to use RTV silicone. Has anyone done any of this? There are some small parts I've done that would probably be better (stronger) in metal. Some of the metals contain lead but they have some lead free stuff too. This is the first I've seen for metal casting that did not require a huge outlay of money up front for equipment.
Guest Davkin Posted April 30, 2009 Posted April 30, 2009 From what I understand casting metal this way is very difficult. You'll probably have to cast the same part 5-10 times before you get a usuable one depending on the complexity. Without a centrifigal casting machine it's very difficult to fill the whole mold when casting with metal. The good news there is the material is reusable so if the part doesn't turn out just melt it down and try again. Also, the low temp casting metals aren't as strong as the "white" metals used for casting into vulcanized rubber, (which really aren't all the strong either). The parts probably won't break on you but they'll be very soft and so won't work for anything structural. David
Zoom Zoom Posted April 30, 2009 Posted April 30, 2009 I would bet that the metal cast in rubber molds like that would be softer than resin. White metal sure is softer than resin. I hate the stuff...
Aaronw Posted May 1, 2009 Author Posted May 1, 2009 I'm thinking about parts like antennas and mirror brackets. Resin that small breaks very easily, I was thinking metal might be a bit more tolerant and bend instead of break. I just try to keep my eyes open for new techniques, but I can't say the idea of pouring 350 degree metal excites me. I spill a little resin on my skin, I spend a few days picking it off, I'm pretty sure doing the same with metal would result in a trip to the hospital. Thanks
Zoom Zoom Posted May 1, 2009 Posted May 1, 2009 I'm thinking about parts like antennas and mirror brackets. Resin that small breaks very easily, I was thinking metal might be a bit more tolerant and bend instead of break. I just try to keep my eyes open for new techniques, but I can't say the idea of pouring 350 degree metal excites me. I spill a little resin on my skin, I spend a few days picking it off, I'm pretty sure doing the same with metal would result in a trip to the hospital. Thanks You might have more luck w/a white metal or resin antenna base drilled out and use wire or hypodermic needle/wire for antenna, which should be plenty strong. Mirror bases...if it's as soft as white metal it's still going to be prone to breaking, you bend it a few times it's likely to break. Most mirrors I use are modern so I drill a hole in the base and insert a wire, drill a hole in the body, and I have a much stronger attachment point.
Modelmartin Posted May 1, 2009 Posted May 1, 2009 I did some of this a number of years ago. The silicone is a high temp formulation so it can handle low temp metals. How well they turn out is up to the person who makes the mold. If you can lay it out and sprue and gate it correctly it is no big deal. I found it to be pretty easy to do. There are many many alloys available and some are stiff and unbendable and some bend all day long without workhardening and breaking. Give it a go!
Aaronw Posted May 9, 2009 Author Posted May 9, 2009 I did some of this a number of years ago. The silicone is a high temp formulation so it can handle low temp metals. How well they turn out is up to the person who makes the mold. If you can lay it out and sprue and gate it correctly it is no big deal. I found it to be pretty easy to do. There are many many alloys available and some are stiff and unbendable and some bend all day long without workhardening and breaking. Give it a go! Thanks, I also found a yahoo group that might help. Worst case (minus burning myself to death) it won't work for my needs but it looks interesting, so I'll probably give it a try after I get this photo etch kit figured out.
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