1k clear coat question

[crowcreate]

I saw a post on here from 2023 of someone using dupli-color 1k clear coat (which is what i’m planning to use), one of the comments said that it didn’t like being wet-sanded but i’ve tested it and i don’t find anything wrong with it does anyone know if there’s a problem with this ?? and also, should i apply decals and metal transfers before or after the clear coat? if after, do i apply them before or after wet-sanding ?

[Bainford]

I can't comment on the 1k clear, but I always apply metal transfers after all clear coating, colour sanding, and polishing is done. The same with decals in many cases if, on the 1:1 the decal represents a sticker that is applied to the car, such as a contingency sticker or factory applied vinyl stripes, etc. This often demands trimming away all of the clear carrier film from the edges of the decal image before application. If the decal represents a painted graphic, I always put it under the clear coat.

Like anything, there are exceptions. On my current build, which represents a car with a lot of factory applied pin stripe tape, I chose to apply the decals before clear coat as the very thin pin stripe decals were very delicate. Also, with some more complex finishes, the decals are applied when the process demands it, or allows it.

There are no hard rules here, though. Many builders put all decals under clear coat, and that's cool, too. 

Edited May 14 by Bainford

[JollySipper]

This build has the 1K clear from DupliColor on it....... It's the only clear that would work on the wheel paint that the body is painted in. I've used it a few times, and as long as you put it on nice and slick (which with this clear means putting it on heavy...), it usually doesn't need a wet sand and polish. It holds it's shine as it dries....

 

[crowcreate]

1 hour ago, JollySipper said:

This build has the 1K clear from DupliColor on it....... It's the only clear that would work on the wheel paint that the body is painted in. I've used it a few times, and as long as you put it on nice and slick (which with this clear means putting it on heavy...), it usually doesn't need a wet sand and polish. It holds it's shine as it dries....

ur right, it holds its shine as it dries but my “problem” is orange peel as u can see in my pic

 

[Bainford]

From your photo, it looks like your attempt to cut and polish has been successful. I don't see a problem with it. If it was mine, I would carry on.

[gtx6970]

I used it for the 1st time on these 2 

 

the Sox-Martin car is wet sanded and polished

 

And I have ZERO complaints with it . 

Maybe one of the best paint jobs Ive ever done with a rattle can 

[gtx6970]

After Wet sanded with 1000 grit

You can't feel the line where the stripes are

 

Then Polished by hand 

[bobss396]

I've been using this for a while, of course with lacquer only.

I heat it up in hot water, sprays great and it tolerates a heavy hand.

[OldNYJim]

14 hours ago, bobss396 said:

I've been using this for a while, of course with lacquer only.

I heat it up in hot water, sprays great and it tolerates a heavy hand.

Being high solids, is it noticeably thicker when applied compared to a regular rattle can clear?  And what is the drying time like?

[bobss396]

9 hours ago, OldNYJim said:

Being high solids, is it noticeably thicker when applied compared to a regular rattle can clear?  And what is the drying time like?

Not thicker that I have noticed. Behaves like most others like Extreme Lacquer gloss clear. It dries fast enough. I've polished it out in 4 hours 

Per the can instructions the recoat window is 20 minutes.

This is a product made for 1:1 body shop touch ups and jamb paintings.

[OldNYJim]

Awesome, thanks for the info Bob!  I’ll put it on my list of things to try!