How do you decide what type of paint to use?

[Greasefinger]

24 minutes ago, Dave G. said:

I have not used the 1/1 auto waterborne. I do use Createx. 

Have you uset their gloss clear (5620 I guess)? If yes, how was it, will it dry hard enough for wet sanding?

[Dave G.]

2 minutes ago, Greasefinger said:

Have you uset their gloss clear (5620 I guess)? If yes, how was it, will it dry hard enough for wet sanding?

I use 4050 UVLS clear. And just buff it. It lays down smooth, enough, unless you get dirt in it, to go straight to buffing it up. Looks like hand rubbed lacquer to my 75yo eyes.. 

I looked up your clear you mention one time. The description didn't mention what I do in clear coating. So I've never tried it. Sorry.

[Dave G.]

8 hours ago, Greasefinger said:

Car manufactures and car paint companies have started to use water based colors instead of solvent based. 

Any experience of those in model building? 

Waterborne color coats I remember coming in back in the 1980s in 1/1. I was using urethane clear with activator then, from DuPont. However so early on I did not trust waterborne color, so my color coats were lacquer with urethane clear for factory matched automotive. Otherwise I shot acrylic enamel with activator ( solvent based, not waterborne acrylic). And I used DuPont as my main line but not exclusively.

Most or many production paint jobs today are waterborne color with 2K clear coat. My 2024 Subaru Crosstrek in Christel Pearl White is just that. And it looks awesome under any kind of light, be it sun or shopping center at night.

Really you could use any waterborne acrylic base color coat and 2K, if you don't mind 2K in your house. I do mind that, so I use Createx 4050 waterborne clear coat, which is also UVLS protective. Anything from properly laid down craft paints to actual auto paints should give good color, as long as you get it on even. The magic is in the clear coating. I use more waterborne on models these days than the old stinky paint. Though I must say, you can shoot and be done using alkyd enamel, if you know it's ways. The old classics still look good done in that.

I bet a lot of folks here don't know that Ferrari was one of the very first waterborne adopters, not far behind was BMW. GM in the US used it pretty early on as well. In fact it was a GM I first ran into this on.

Edited Monday at 04:12 PM by Dave G.

[TransAmMike]

9 hours ago, Greasefinger said:

Have you uset their gloss clear (5620 I guess)? If yes, how was it, will it dry hard enough for wet sanding?

I'm using the 5620 right now. So far 4 coats and still dries out to a very shiny satin finish. Getting ready to get a couple more coats on and see. If this is how it dries will definitely need some kind of polishing. I'll let ya'll know. 

[TransAmMike]

9 hours ago, Dave G. said:

I use 4050 UVLS clear. And just buff it. It lays down smooth, enough, unless you get dirt in it, to go straight to buffing it up. Looks like hand rubbed lacquer to my 75yo eyes.. 

I looked up your clear you mention one time. The description didn't mention what I do in clear coating. So I've never tried it. Sorry.

HI Dave, as I mentioned in the previous post I'm using the 5620 clear right now. 3 more coat, I tbingabout 7 right now and it's a little shiner then shiny satin but still I wouldn't call it gloss. 

You said you buff the 4050. With polish or just soft cloth? 

[Dave G.]

2 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

HI Dave, as I mentioned in the previous post I'm using the 5620 clear right now. 3 more coat, I tbingabout 7 right now and it's a little shiner then shiny satin but still I wouldn't call it gloss. 

You said you buff the 4050. With polish or just soft cloth? 

I use Formula 1 Scratch out. Sometimes Colgate tooth paste first, but usually just the scratch out. Then bees wax, most folks use canuba wax, but my bees wax formulation can't decide if it's polish or wax, so it covers two chores lol ! If the finish is real smooth I may just go straight to that.

4050 doesn't dry full gloss either but it shines right up real easy, much easier than automotive acrylic lacquer. More like the old nitro lacquer..

[TransAmMike]

1 hour ago, Dave G. said:

I use Formula 1 Scratch out. Sometimes Colgate tooth paste first, but usually just the scratch out. Then bees wax, most folks use canuba wax, but my bees wax formulation can't decide if it's polish or wax, so it covers two chores lol ! If the finish is real smooth I may just go straight to that.

4050 doesn't dry full gloss either but it shines right up real easy, much easier than automotive acrylic lacquer. More like the old nitro lacquer..

Thanks again Buddy. It came out fairly decent. But I just don't seem to ever get a completely smooth finish with most of my paint jobs. A bit grainy. 

[Dave G.]

10 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

Thanks again Buddy. It came out fairly decent. But I just don't seem to ever get a completely smooth finish with most of my paint jobs. A bit grainy. 

Mike, were you using the 4021 reducer ? How rough or grainy are you talking about.

Explain your procedure, if you don't mind. Like thinner type and  amount. Airbrush, the tip size, air pressure, working distance from the model. Atmospheric conditions the day you shot it.

Meanwhile read this:

For model car top coats,

Createx 4050 Gloss UVLS Clear is generally considered a better choice than the 5620 Gloss Clear. 

 

Here's why:

• Superior Adhesion: The 4050 offers better adhesion, even as an adhesive primer for surfaces like plastic, metal, and glass.
• UVLS Protection: The "UVLS" in 4050 indicates its formulation includes UV protection, which is beneficial for protecting the underlying paint from fading, especially with candies or other dyes.
• Multi-Functional: The 4050 can also function as a mixing clear to create a more durable, mar-resistant, and better-leveling acrylic-urethane paint mix.
• Recommended for Mixing: Createx recommends 4050 for use as a balancing clear with candy2o, pearls, metallics, and flakes for increased viscosity and durability. 

•  

Considerations for 5620:

• Acrylic Resin: The 5620 is a water-based acrylic clear designed for use over any Createx Colors paint.
• Durable (Non-Automotive Grade): While it's durable for indoor and outdoor use, it's explicitly stated as not automotive-grade. This might be a factor if you're looking for the highest level of protection or long-term durability.
• No UV Protection: The 5620 lacks UV blockers, meaning it won't offer the same color protection as the 4050, particularly with sensitive colors like candies. 

•  

In summary: If you want a top coat with superior adhesion, UV protection, and the ability to function as a versatile mixing clear for improved paint performance, the Createx 4050 is the preferred choice for model cars. The 5620 may be a suitable option for indoor models where long-term UV protection is not as crucial, but it's important to remember it's not automotive-grade