Paint question

[Fat Brian]

To me everything you showed looks like it was applied a little too dry. Auto body and airbrush painters talk about the "wet edge", where the paint has enough liquid in it to flow out smooth but not enough to run. After you make a pass with the spray gun the center will be shiny but above and below will be flatter. Working from a spray can is a little different but the principle is the same. Paint will never be glossier than when you apply it, if it looks flat or rough it will dry flat or rough. I think if you got to about 75% coverage with thin coats and let that flash off for a few minutes then finished with a wetter coat that was very smooth you would probably be set.

Edited 23 hours ago by Fat Brian

[JerseeJerry55]

19 minutes ago, Fat Brian said:

To me everything you showed looks like it was applied a little too dry. Auto body and airbrush painters talk about the "wet edge", where the paint has enough liquid in it to flow out smooth but not enough to run. After you make a pass with the spray gun the center will be shiny but above and below will be flatter. Working from a spray can is a little different but the principle is the same. Paint will never be glossier than when you apply it, if it looks flat or rough it will dry flat or rough. I think if you got to about 75% coverage with thin coats and let that flash off for a few minutes then finished with a wetter coat that was very smooth you would probably be set.

Thanks Brian. So in essence if I want it more glossy like an O/O truck I needed to do lighter coats, then the final heavier coat. However what I have shown would be more geared towards a weathered company unit such as lets say the Alaskan Hauler KW500? Or am I off base?

 

[Dave G.]

24 minutes ago, JerseeJerry55 said:

Thanks I appreciate it. Painting always seems to be my downfall.

Well I don't spray can Krylon onto plastic cars or trucks, so I can't say how you should put it on.

[Fat Brian]

6 minutes ago, JerseeJerry55 said:

Thanks Brian. So in essence if I want it more glossy like an O/O truck I needed to do lighter coats, then the final heavier coat. However what I have shown would be more geared towards a weathered company unit such as lets say the Alaskan Hauler KW500? Or am I off base?

 

Personally, I think the paint is too textured like that to look accurate. I try to get it at least smooth even if I'm going to hit it with a matte clear at the end. 

I'm going to put "heavy" in quotation marks, work it up one pass at a time until it looks glossy and wet. There is a very fine line between perfect and getting runs. You will have to dial in the distance away you hold the can, too close and you gets runs, too far and you can't get rid of that pebbly texture.

[Dave G.]

That's a nice white, almost a cream. I could see me decanting that, adding a little slower drying thinner and airbrushing it. I bet it would lay down beautifully. I'm not saying you have to do that, it's just how I'd treat it. Basically I'm thinking out loud lol !

[JerseeJerry55]

14 hours ago, Fat Brian said:

Personally, I think the paint is too textured like that to look accurate. I try to get it at least smooth even if I'm going to hit it with a matte clear at the end. 

I'm going to put "heavy" in quotation marks, work it up one pass at a time until it looks glossy and wet. There is a very fine line between perfect and getting runs. You will have to dial in the distance away you hold the can, too close and you gets runs, too far and you can't get rid of that pebbly texture.

Brian hi. I usually paint 10-12 inches from the part(s). I also believe although I painted in a shady area on the side of my house the outside temperature was too hot (95 degrees). So that I believe is my downfall. That being said since I am not in the mood to strip, and repaint the cab of a $50.00+ kit I may just wait a few weeks and lightly sand it down, reprime it, and then repaint it when the outside temps will cooperate. And while I am at that I may just change my username to My Own Worst Enemy. Just a random thought.

[Fat Brian]

47 minutes ago, JerseeJerry55 said:

Brian hi. I usually paint 10-12 inches from the part(s). I also believe although I painted in a shady area on the side of my house the outside temperature was too hot (95 degrees). So that I believe is my downfall. That being said since I am not in the mood to strip, and repaint the cab of a $50.00+ kit I may just wait a few weeks and lightly sand it down, reprime it, and then repaint it when the outside temps will cooperate. And while I am at that I may just change my username to My Own Worst Enemy. Just a random thought.

I have to paint outside too. When the humidity is high you can get something called blushing where the surface of the paint turns flat in reaction to the moisture in the air. High temps can also cause the paint to go on drier at a given distance from the body since the heat causes more of the carrier liquid to evaporate through the air. I've got to where I prime everything with Duplicolor white primer because its easy to strip no matter what I put over it.

[JerseeJerry55]

1 hour ago, Fat Brian said:

I have to paint outside too. When the humidity is high you can get something called blushing where the surface of the paint turns flat in reaction to the moisture in the air. High temps can also cause the paint to go on drier at a given distance from the body since the heat causes more of the carrier liquid to evaporate through the air. I've got to where I prime everything with Duplicolor white primer because its easy to strip no matter what I put over it.

Brian,

Thanks for your reply. That sounds about right. I'll have to give Duplicolor a whirl. I've got a Revell snap Pete 359 that I could use for that primer. Just have to get to late Summer to attempt it. Have a great day.

Kind regards,

Jersee Jerry 55