johnyrotten Posted Wednesday at 11:39 PM Posted Wednesday at 11:39 PM I'm trying to airbrush some wheel trim rings, can not get an even finish for the life of me. No real way to hold the part and spin it, like how I would a wheel or tire, and I keep ending up with that hazy spot that molotow leaves when sprayed too lightly. How do you all go about spraying something shaped this way? Picture of the part and how I'm "holding" them. Already stripped and need to start over. Thanks in advance 👍👍
Cool Hand Posted yesterday at 12:43 AM Posted yesterday at 12:43 AM I dont use Molotow, but I have painted a lot of 3D printed wheel hoops/sleeves. Glue on some small handles that can be held with a clippy stick. Use CA glue and it can easily be snapped off and excess glue removed with a blade. Also do the same for tyres. 1
johnyrotten Posted yesterday at 01:01 AM Author Posted yesterday at 01:01 AM 14 minutes ago, Cool Hand said: I dont use Molotow, but I have painted a lot of 3D printed wheel hoops/sleeves. Glue on some small handles that can be held with a clippy stick. Use CA glue and it can easily be snapped off and excess glue removed with a blade. Also do the same for tyres. I'll definitely give this a shot. Thanks. 1
NOBLNG Posted yesterday at 03:23 AM Posted yesterday at 03:23 AM (edited) You could also cut a disc from cardboard about the size of your rings. Glue a long piece of sprue (or any round rod) to the center with CA, and then use double face tape or a tape loop to attach the rings. Then you can spin it as you spray. A bottle cap might work instead of the cardboard disc? Edited yesterday at 03:27 AM by NOBLNG 1
Cool Hand Posted yesterday at 12:36 PM Posted yesterday at 12:36 PM 10 hours ago, johnyrotten said: I'll definitely give this a shot. Thanks. I find it works well as you just rotate the stick and the paint hits the surface and circulates through. Having the hoops on the tape the Molotow hits the surface and the tape which circulates the spray back onto itself which is like having over spray going into the wet paint. And being that Molotow needs to go on heavy and wet the overspray would be dulling the chrome effect. I found Molotow is way to finnicky and takes forever to fully harden/cure and even then the surface is not very durable. I recently started using SMS paints Hyper Chrome, the results are excellent and in my opinion its the best hobby grade chrome paint thats available, I have used it over Tamiya TS-14 black and Alclad gloss black base. And shown below it was applied over SMS Jet black which was clear coated with SMS Super clear. I use the Cold Tone for wheels And like with Alclad its very durable, just lightly buff with a cotton ball to remove the dust that forms on the surface. Ive pretty much tried all the chrome paints, and to me SMS Hyper Chrome is the best option for a great finish, its quick to dry/cure and very durable. 2
johnyrotten Posted yesterday at 01:18 PM Author Posted yesterday at 01:18 PM 33 minutes ago, Cool Hand said: I find it works well as you just rotate the stick and the paint hits the surface and circulates through. Having the hoops on the tape the Molotow hits the surface and the tape which circulates the spray back onto itself which is like having over spray going into the wet paint. And being that Molotow needs to go on heavy and wet the overspray would be dulling the chrome effect. I found Molotow is way to finnicky and takes forever to fully harden/cure and even then the surface is not very durable. I recently started using SMS paints Hyper Chrome, the results are excellent and in my opinion its the best hobby grade chrome paint thats available, I have used it over Tamiya TS-14 black and Alclad gloss black base. And shown below it was applied over SMS Jet black which was clear coated with SMS Super clear. I use the Cold Tone for wheels And like with Alclad its very durable, just lightly buff with a cotton ball to remove the dust that forms on the surface. Ive pretty much tried all the chrome paints, and to me SMS Hyper Chrome is the best option for a great finish, its quick to dry/cure and very durable. I'm relatively new to a lot of products and techniques, I paint wheels and tires similar to what you've shown, and exactly what you're saying is what's happening. On a whim I've started looking into other products, just in case. I do research into pros and cons with the products I use, and molotow, while nice is fragile. I've seen the alclad, the sms hyperchrome is a new one. Any drying time isn't really a concern, I'm patient. Those look great, thanks for posting up the pictures.
Cool Hand Posted 19 hours ago Posted 19 hours ago 5 hours ago, johnyrotten said: the sms hyperchrome is a new one. Any drying time isn't really a concern, I'm patient. Sometimes time is limited and I just like to get things done so I can move on to the next stage or something else. Time frame with the full system of SMS paints. I applied the surfacer let that dry overnight. The following day I based coated jet black and clear coated in the morning let that dry all day about 8hrs. Then applied the Chrome Cold Tone. 2 hours later I buffed and assembled the wheels. 1
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