Rolls-Royce No Chemicals, No Paint, No Harmful Glues

[Big Messer]

Dave: I think you should add a fan venting to the outside taking the fumes away from you. 

[Anglia105E]

3 hours ago, Big Messer said:

Dave: I think you should add a fan venting to the outside taking the fumes away from you. 

Thank you for your concern Jose, but don't worry, I have stopped aerosol spray painting, airbrush painting and brushed on enamels painting around six months ago now . . . This is why I am hoping to polish the bare plastic and avoid using paints . . .

David

[Anglia105E]

Well. late last night I somehow managed to find a Silver Cloud kit on Ebay . . . This one is the Entex version and the Ebay seller is in the Netherlands.

The asking price was quite reasonable, and I noticed there was also a ' Make Offer ' option available. The price was in US.$, which at first led me to believe this kit was being listed by a seller in the US of course. The price in brackets was in GBP, and what surprised me was there was no price in Euros, which I had expected from a Dutch seller . . . Anyway, the asking price was US.$. 46.80 plus a shipping cost of US.$. 21.60, which is high postage from Holland to UK . . .

I made an offer of US.$. 30.00 which was accepted. All of the Ebay seller's items listed in their shop were action toys, so no scale model cars, only this one kit of the Rolls-Royce . . . I figured that maybe the seller was not fully aware of how rare this kit is these days.

So, the kit will be delivered to my home within 7 - 10 days and I can get started on the build as of now. First stage is the polishing of the body shell, trunk lid and two hood panels . . . I shall test the polishing on one of the three body shells that I have already, and from the photos on Ebay it looks like the body from Holland might be in better shape than my three bodies.

I have previously built 8 Silver Cloud kits, but none of them are Entex . . . They have been Revell, Minicraft and Masterkit, but not Entex. Judging by the photos, the tyres tell me that the Entex kit is similar to the Revell kit, which is a good thing . . .

David

[Kenmojr]

Sorry to hear about your lung issues. In late May I was diagnosed with bladder cancer. 

Hoping you can quickly recover.

All the very best...

Ken in Nova Scotia...

[Anglia105E]

13 hours ago, Kenmojr said:

Sorry to hear about your lung issues. In late May I was diagnosed with bladder cancer. 

Hoping you can quickly recover.

All the very best...

Ken in Nova Scotia...

Thank you very much Ken, and your kind wishes are greatly appreciated . . . I hope that your condition can be managed as well as possible.

David in England

[Anglia105E]

Several of the following photos show the labels on the back of the Meguiars Carnauba Wax bottle, and also the Traditional Beeswax furniture polish . . . Both of these products contain harmful solvents, and there are warnings regarding the dangers of inhaling the vapors, as well as not allowing the product to come into contact with your skin. I do not feel safe using either of these polish products, particularly taking into account my lung condition.

This evening I washed the body parts in hot water with dish wash liquid, then rinsed them in cold water and dried them with kitchen towel. Once dry, I polished the roof panel area with a new micro fibre cloth, applied firmly in a circular motion. This was followed by a second polishing application using distilled malt vinegar and buffed with a clean part of the micro fibre cloth

The resulting finish on the surface of the roof might be good enough, but this is just at the experimental stage for now . . .

Minor scratches in the plastic could be removed using toothpaste at some point.

David

[johnyrotten]

You mentioned toothpaste as a polish, most of them use baking soda or charcoal as a fine abrasive. Could either of those be an option mixed with a little distilled water? Just a thought. 

[Anglia105E]

8 hours ago, johnyrotten said:

You mentioned toothpaste as a polish, most of them use baking soda or charcoal as a fine abrasive. Could either of those be an option mixed with a little distilled water? Just a thought. 

Yes John . . . Apparently the non-gel toothpaste is best, so the plain white type. I shall certainly try the mix of toothpaste and distilled malt vinegar or water.

Thanks for your continued interest . . .

David

[johnyrotten]

17 minutes ago, Anglia105E said:

Thanks for your continued interest .

You're welcome. It's an interesting set of challenges you have, I've found many good tips and tricks come from threads like yours. Polishing bare plastic is something I would like to try on a future build. I've already repaired scratched windshields, but you don't have to worry about losing details with those.

[Anglia105E]

14 minutes ago, johnyrotten said:

You're welcome. It's an interesting set of challenges you have, I've found many good tips and tricks come from threads like yours. Polishing bare plastic is something I would like to try on a future build. I've already repaired scratched windshields, but you don't have to worry about losing details with those.

I have an original Hubley promo of the Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud, made in 1960, which I purchased from a seller in the U.S.A. . . . This model is moulded in blue plastic, and has been polished way back sometime but not painted. I seem to remember one other MCM Forum member trying out the polished plastic technique, with mixed results . . .

David

[Bugatti Fan]

Terrible dilemma wanting to carry on with a hobby that you love doing and being advised that medically you are putting yourself at risk by carrying on with it.

So what are the alternatives?   

One is very expensive in that the big pre painted 1/8th scale Agora, Ixo and DeAgostini car kits that go together with screws.  Another less expensive alternative is taking apart pre painted die casts like Buragos, detailing up the interiors and brush painting with acrylics.

Going off in a different direction altogether, and away from cars have a look at the wood and metal tram kits by a company named OCCRE. You can use non toxic PVA and acrylic brush paints on them. A bit of a culture shock moving off the plastic and resin, but a viable alternative to keep your hobby alive.      Hope my suggestions help .

 

 

Edited August 13 by Bugatti Fan

[Big Messer]

1 hour ago, Bugatti Fan said:

.  Another less expensive alternative is taking apart pre painted die casts like Buragos, detailing up the interiors and brush painting with acrylics.

I do this because sometimes I find cheap diecasts with missing or broken parts at Goodwill. Great fun!.

 

 

 

[Anglia105E]

2 hours ago, Bugatti Fan said:

Terrible dilemma wanting to carry on with a hobby that you love doing and being advised that medically you are putting yourself at risk by carrying on with it.

So what are the alternatives?   

One is very expensive in that the big pre painted 1/8th scale Agora, Ixo and DeAgostini car kits that go together with screws.  Another less expensive alternative is taking apart pre painted die casts like Buragos, detailing up the interiors and brush painting with acrylics.

Going off in a different direction altogether, and away from cars have a look at the wood and metal tram kits by a company named OCCRE. You can use non toxic PVA and acrylic brush paints on them. A bit of a culture shock moving off the plastic and resin, but a viable alternative to keep your hobby alive.      Hope my suggestions help .

 

 

Your thoughts and observations are much appreciated Noel . . . Yes, I have dismantled Franklin Mint die cast Rolls-Royce model cars, both Silver Cloud I and also Phantom I versions. The Agora, IXO and DeAgostini kits are very nice, but as you pointed out, too expensive for me. Certainly, the OCCRE kits are interesting, and I particularly like the trams . . . All suggestions are welcome at this stage.

I am fairly confident that I can find ways to go non-chemical, non-toxic and paint free with my new approach to model car building. I am able to use water based emulsion paints, albeit with no primer allowed, and I shall be testing the bonding strength of PVA glue in terms of holding styrene to styrene. The use of products such as Bare Metal Foil, Sharpies and Vallejo acrylics will help with this approach . . .

David

[Anglia105E]

1 hour ago, Big Messer said:

 

Yes Jose, I like to find Franklin Mint and Danbury die casts on Ebay, using a search for ' Spares or Repairs ' which can be quite cheap . . .

David

[Big Messer]

31 minutes ago, Anglia105E said:

Yes Jose, I like to find Franklin Mint and Danbury die casts on Ebay, using a search for ' Spares or Repairs ' which can be quite cheap . . .

David

A few weeks ago I found 2 1904 Mercedes for around $7 at Goodwill, both damaged. Made one good one and had enough parts to make a racer version... that is started and sitting in the WIP growing pile. BTW Goodwill has an auction page. Interesting finds there both in diecasts and kits, but BUYERS BEWARE has to be kept in mind. The people that lists the items usually don't have the foggiest idea about what they are posting.

Edited August 13 by Big Messer

[Anglia105E]

27 minutes ago, Big Messer said:

A few weeks ago I found 2 1904 Mercedes for around $7 at Goodwill, both damaged. Made one good one and had enough parts to make a racer version... that is started and sitting in the WIP growing pile. BTW Goodwill has an auction page. Interesting finds there both in diecasts and kits, but BUYERS BEWARE has to be kept in mind. The people that lists the items usually don't have the foggiest idea about what they are posting.

Well done with those two Mercedes finds . . . I always have a look at the seller's Ebay shop to see if they specialise in model car kits. When you see one model car kit offered for sale, and all the remaining items listed are not model car related, that is a very good sign because most likely the seller does not fully understand what they have. That one kit could be quite rare, and potentially has more value than their asking price indicates . . .

David

[rattle can man]

I mentioned finding a Safety Data sheet for items such as paints. As I said before, these contain plain language safety and health information about a product (this is not just paints, but any product that could be hazardous like cleaners, solvents, auto chemicals, pesticides, etc.) . 

This link is to a Safety Data Sheet  SDS/ MSDS) for Tamiya acrylic paint. hobbyco acrylic paints (x) sds 28-09-2023.pdf  Section 2 lists the Lable markings and what they mean. Section 3 Lists ingredients. Section 4 lists First aid procedures. Section 8 tells you about exposure control/ protective equipment when using the product.

For Tamiya I searched for "Tamiya SDS". It is a bit odd that they don't have it listed on their website. Testors has their SDS linked at the top of their home page like most large companies do.

I hope this helps you cut your exposures.

[Anglia105E]

1 hour ago, rattle can man said:

I mentioned finding a Safety Data sheet for items such as paints. As I said before, these contain plain language safety and health information about a product (this is not just paints, but any product that could be hazardous like cleaners, solvents, auto chemicals, pesticides, etc.) . 

This link is to a Safety Data Sheet  SDS/ MSDS) for Tamiya acrylic paint. hobbyco acrylic paints (x) sds 28-09-2023.pdf  Section 2 lists the Lable markings and what they mean. Section 3 Lists ingredients. Section 4 lists First aid procedures. Section 8 tells you about exposure control/ protective equipment when using the product.

For Tamiya I searched for "Tamiya SDS". It is a bit odd that they don't have it listed on their website. Testors has their SDS linked at the top of their home page like most large companies do.

I hope this helps you cut your exposures.

Many thanks Harry for your interesting input . . . I shall have a good look at the Tamiya acrylic paint Safety Data Sheet, because I do like Tamiya products, especially their paint ranges . . . The main problem would be the smell, because the minute my wife picks up any paint smell in our house I am in big trouble !

At the moment you may have noticed that the content of my topic suggests that I am going down the route of polishing the plastic, so I will not be using any type of paint . . . not even acrylics. Only brushed on water based emulsion paint might be acceptable.

Should there be any way that I can use Tamiya acrylic aerosol spray paints, or their brush on acrylics, given my lung condition, then I would be happy to use them Harry . . .

David

[rattle can man]

I understand the no paint.  I was thinking if you have questions on something like household cleaners or something. But I also wanted to point out that this resource is there for people who might not know.

[Anglia105E]

Today I picked up some baking soda toothpaste from a local store, which is the type that is white and has no gel or coloured stripes in it . . .

This toothpaste was applied to the roof area of my test model, by using a firm circular motion with a microfibre cloth, and allowed to dry for a few minutes.

Then I used a clean microfibre cloth soaked in distilled malt vinegar to polish the roof, using the same circular motion . . .

Well guys . . . The shine is wonderful, and this is only having applied the toothpaste once. I shall probably give it a further application, as this is purely a test model . . . I hope that you can see the result from the photos below, which has impressed me greatly. Look at the reflection of the thermometer.

I do like the shine on this roof panel and I have never been able to achieve this standard of finish with any painting methods that I have used over the years.

David

[Anglia105E]

6 minutes ago, rattle can man said:

I understand the no paint.  I was thinking if you have questions on something like household cleaners or something. But I also wanted to point out that this resource is there for people who might not know.

Okay, I understand Harry, and your link is much appreciated . . . I shall read through the information, and I may learn something !

Have a look at my most recent post above, regarding the toothpaste and distilled malt vinegar method . . .

David

[johnyrotten]

That worked out very well for you, David. Polished up nicely. 👍👍

[Bugatti Fan]

David, you mentioned that you might be trying pva adhesives on plastics.  Have a look at De Luxe Materials website as they carry many model making materials and adhesives. A particularly strong pva type adhesive they sell is their own branded Superphatic glue. They might have some spec sheets for their adhesives on their website.

have you thought about Revel! Aquacolour Acrylics? You can get their thinner that has very little odour to thin it for airbrush use. I bought mine from Hobbycraft, but downgraded at shows might have it.

Hope this helps.

Edited August 14 by Bugatti Fan

[Anglia105E]

3 hours ago, Bugatti Fan said:

David, you mentioned that you might be trying pva adhesives on plastics.  Have a look at De Luxe Materials website as they carry many model making materials and adhesives. A particularly strong pva type adhesive they sell is their own branded Superphatic glue. They might have some spec sheets for their adhesives on their website.

have you thought about Revel! Aquacolour Acrylics? You can get their thinner that has very little odour to thin it for airbrush use. I bought mine from Hobbycraft, but downgraded at shows might have it.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for this info Noel . . . I just had a look at DeLuxe Materials Super Phatic adhesive, which is priced at £8.50 from an Ebay seller in Stafford, UK.

Maybe this could be a viable alternative to my Ryman's Washable PVA Glue . . . Sounds like it would be a stronger bond , , ,

There are not many parts that need to be glued on the Silver Cloud kit, because I don't glue the body shell to the chassis, as I like the body to be removable.  For the window glass I use Crystal Clear by Zero Paints, which is white glue and has no smell . . .

I have tried Revell Aquacolour Acrylics previously, and they do have this in stock at my local Hobbycraft store in Chesterfield, so thanks for suggesting that as an option . . . I do have an airbrush so that could work.

David

[Anglia105E]

10 hours ago, johnyrotten said:

That worked out very well for you, David. Polished up nicely. 👍👍

Thanks John . . . This gives me the confidence that I needed to polish up the entire body shell using this method . . .

David