FujimiLover Posted May 19, 2009 Posted May 19, 2009 Well, anybody have any ideas to my question regarding swirel-effects?
BigGary Posted May 19, 2009 Posted May 19, 2009 Here's a couple things I learned that made my first attempt at BMF go pretty well. First, I washed the painted body with Fantastic, rinsed thoroughly, and dried with a cotton towel. Next I put on a latex glove and only handled the body only with the gloved hand. I started with a new Exacto blade and sharpened it on 1500 grit sandpaper halfway through the job. The second evening I forgot the glove and had a lot more difficulty getting the BMF to stick where my hand had touched it. I had to wipe those spots with alcohol in order to get the BMF to stick. I did all this on a body that was painted and ready for BMF, but not a project I was hurrying on. I did it just to have experience with BMF. Next week I'll put BMF on my current project. There will be less than on a Chevelle wagon. Gary
pstreet Posted May 19, 2009 Posted May 19, 2009 Well, anybody have any ideas to my question regarding swirel-effects? Its called engine turning, and in the 1:1 world it is achieved by using a drill press with basically a sanding disc attached to it. Ive never personally worked with BMF before, so im not sure what kind of abuse it can take before it tears, but the basic process would be the same. instead of using a drill press however you would have to find a scale alternative of some sort.
MrObsessive Posted May 20, 2009 Posted May 20, 2009 Well, anybody have any ideas to my question regarding swirel-effects? BMF won't stand up to the swirl effect you want but for so long. You're better off taking a flat piece of aluminum sheet, and using a moto-tool, hand burnish the swirl marks you want. I've only seen one person do this on a model...............back in the early '90's a fellow by the name of Larry Boothe did a perfect replication of this on a super detailed build of a AMT '57 T-Bird. He did as I described------took a Dremel with a burnishing tool and did the engine turning by hand for the dashboard. It was VERY convincing for that scale!
Harry P. Posted May 20, 2009 Posted May 20, 2009 BMF won't stand up to the swirl effect you want but for so long. You're better off taking a flat piece of aluminum sheet, and using a moto-tool, hand burnish the swirl marks you want. I've only seen one person do this on a model...............back in the early '90's a fellow by the name of Larry Boothe did a perfect replication of this on a super detailed build of a AMT '57 T-Bird. He did as I described------took a Dremel with a burnishing tool and did the engine turning by hand for the dashboard. It was VERY convincing for that scale! Another way to accomplish this effect is to use aluminum duct-sealing tape, available at any home improvement store. It looks like BMF but it's much thicker and will stand up to the process. You can chuck a round pencil eraser (the gray "ink eraser" type) into a Dremel tool and use the eraser to create the swirls. Possible problems: The diameter of the pencil eraser creates swirls that are a bit too large for 1/24-25 scale (but works well for 1/8!), keeping all the swirls uniform, and perfectly evenly spaced both horizontally and vertically. This will only work on a flat dash... the tape won't do so well on compound curves. And this is a fairly labor and time-intensive process. It can be done, but it's not easy or quick.
sak Posted May 29, 2009 Posted May 29, 2009 I recently bought a sheet of the new improved bare metal foil. No cracks, and sticks well, but its still garbage in my opinion. It leaves grooves in thin pieces. like a chromed rebar effect, which will not rub smooth. It does not pull evenly from the backing as my guess is that the adhesive is not evenly applicated to the foil. The orange peel that is on most sheets cannot help either. I recommend using tin foil. So far I had good luck with it. Spray some elmers on a small sheet and let it sit in a box, away from dust for a few hours then carve it to the basic shape you want and apply carefully but only burnish down where you want it. seal it with some future around the edges and you should be fine. Save the bare metal foil for small jobs. Jeff
old low&slo Posted May 29, 2009 Posted May 29, 2009 I did not know you could order direct from bmf until reading this thread. because of shipping costs ordered 2 sheets. I got them yesterday. the new improved stuff. works and looks good. I am very happy with what they sent. it says on their website if you are buying just bmf to call them and get cheaper rates . they would send it mail instead of ups. only problem was they did not answer the phone.
lorider Posted May 29, 2009 Posted May 29, 2009 I bought a sheet of BMF that looked like a dry-lake bed (didn't know any better, first time trying it) and of course it came off the back in little pieces. Went back to the LHS and they said I had already used it so they couldn't exchange or refund (they're out of business now and I understand why). I contacted BMF and they sent out two replacement sheets at no charge, they didn't even question it or ask for the old sheet (which I kept and use as suggested for touch-ups and masking). As long as you are polite with them they are really good to deal with. A couple of things I have tried when using it. I cut a stiff piece of cardboard the same size as the sheet and slip that in the envelope with the foil sheet so it is less prone to flexing and bending. Also if I don't not need really long pieces, I will cut the sheet in quarters and just use one quarter at a time. This also causes a lot less flexing and bending when actually working with it. BMF themselves suggest keeping it in the 'fridge when not using and yes, this really extends it's life. BMF is really easy and cool to work with.
Bernard Kron Posted May 29, 2009 Author Posted May 29, 2009 Thanks for all the very helpful discussion. I got my order last week from BMF Co. I haven't used the chrome foil yet because of the job of removing the old (bad) stuff. But I have used some the Matte Aluminum I sent for and it went on well with no wrinkle or other issues. I though it would be useful to publish a before and after of the crummy stuff vs. the good stuff: THE CRUMMY STUFF: The GOOD STUFF: No dry lake bed effect or wrinkled edges here. Quite a difference, I'd say! And here's a picture I made up showing the packaging with a blowup of the "New and Improved" sticker overlayed on top so people know what to look for. The sticker is in the upper left hand corner of the window showing the foil in the package.
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