Deuce roadster / tub kit bash

[dino246gt]

Over the primer before the next layer of putty because the primer interacts with the putty. Clear, or any colour I suppose, I use clear mostly, creates a barrier. 

It works for me, maybe it's not the right thing to do, but it has saved me from doing putty, primer, putty, primer, over and over again.

[customline]

9 hours ago, dino246gt said:

Over the primer before the next layer of putty because the primer interacts with the putty. Clear, or any colour I suppose, I use clear mostly, creates a barrier. 

It works for me, maybe it's not the right thing to do, but it has saved me from doing putty, primer, putty, primer, over and over again.

Hmmmm....🤔.  So it's the primer we all know and love? No 💩 ?    😟 what have you found to be a good time delay between coats of barrier paint and primer? ...and primer never touches putty?  

Thanks, Dennis, I'll will try it your way at the first opportunity. 

[customline]

Hey! Here's a very cool deuce coupe I spotted at my breakfast haunt a few days ago. REALLY look at it closely. IF I OWNED IT I WOULD NOT CHANGE A SINGLE THING..  and how does it make YOU feel?

I'm reeeeealy liking the nailhead buick under the open hood. Hardly any chrome. It's like this kid in 1954 took a $150.00 '32 coupe and removed the fenders, dropped the front, and dropped in the nailhead.  It looks like a really old build but well cared for. It's friggin' sweet. 😎 hey, I know, but it is my thread.

[Quiet Eric]

Since YOU asked.....😁

Can the cowl lights and fog light, swap the headlights for King Bees, put a proper set of Firestone 7.50 and 4.75 (maybe 5.00) tires on it, then give it a 3.5" haircut...that'd be pretty close.

[customline]

9 minutes ago, Quiet Eric said:

Since YOU asked.....😁

Can the cowl lights and fog light, swap the headlights for King Bees, put a proper set of Firestone 7.50 and 4.75 (maybe 5.00) tires on it, then give it a 3.5" haircut...that'd be pretty close.

 I think this deuce is cool because it still has all the "old fart" hardware on it.  😉 And no bling!

....and maybe the original black paint, too. It looks like it was in a barn for the last 70 years under a tarp and dusted off and well..... anyway, that's how it hits me, QE. A survivor of sorts, but yes...a haircut would be nice....🤔

 

[LennyB]

I would add some fenders so I have a place to put my ☕ while I'm jabbering with all the admirers. 😁

 

 

(not really I just like the look with fenders better)

[customline]

10 minutes ago, LennyB said:

I would add some fenders so I have a place to put my ☕ while I'm jabbering with all the admirers. 😁

 

 

(not really I just like the look with fenders better)

I thought I would get at least one guy to agree with me on this coupe. ☹

[TopherMcGinnis]

DUUUUUUUUDE!!!!!!!! I would Gray Baskerville that car DAILY! It is absolutely Perfect. 

[customline]

3 minutes ago, TopherMcGinnis said:

DUUUUUUUUDE!!!!!!!! I would Gray Baskerville that car DAILY! It is absolutely Perfect. 

See? SEE ?.....thank you Topher! (That didn't take very long 🙂) 

[TopherMcGinnis]

It reminds me of a weekly car club meeting I attended back in '86. There were a couple of Dueces that came that looked alot like that Coupe. 

[customline]

1 minute ago, TopherMcGinnis said:

It reminds me of a weekly car club meeting I attended back in '86. There were a couple of Dueces that came that looked alot like that Coupe. 

It's not a wild, blown, weed burner....just a very polite, modest hot rod. No fancy paint job. No chrome plated axle or chrome plated shocks. Black windshield frame. Stock body. Fabric roof insert. Love it.

[Mr. Metallic]

Here's my advice as far as the body work. I am no expert, but feel I get pretty decent results.

I only use Tamiya filler for slight imperfections (less that a fingernail scratch) Tamiya filler tends to shrink for anything deeper than that unless it sits for a very long time. For anything deeper I use Dolphin Glaze (equivalent to Evercoat or 2 part Bondo). Using the plastic/solvent glue method can work but you have to be absolutely sure the glue is done curing or it will ghost.

My practice anymore is to get all the bodywork done and then do the entire body with one coat of fine Tamiya primer. Then proceed to color.

Others may have different experiences, but this is what works for me.

[customline]

1 hour ago, Mr. Metallic said:

Here's my advice as far as the body work. I am no expert, but feel I get pretty decent results.

I only use Tamiya filler for slight imperfections (less that a fingernail scratch) Tamiya filler tends to shrink for anything deeper than that unless it sits for a very long time. For anything deeper I use Dolphin Glaze (equivalent to Evercoat or 2 part Bondo). Using the plastic/solvent glue method can work but you have to be absolutely sure the glue is done curing or it will ghost.

My practice anymore is to get all the bodywork done and then do the entire body with one coat of fine Tamiya primer. Then proceed to color.

Others may have different experiences, but this is what works for me.

Thanks, Craig. I use 2 part Bondo glazing for body work and have been using the Mr. Surfacer for minor nicks and scratches for many years now but only had a problem since I started using Tamiya lacquer color. I've been using their fine primer for years with mostly enamel like Testor's and MM.   Between the tape issue and now this...(and I recently bought a dozen cans of Tamiya lacquer color  before this little problem showed its ugly face.) it looks like I need to think it through better.

[TopherMcGinnis]

Createx is easy to use.

[customline]

4 minutes ago, TopherMcGinnis said:

Createx is easy to use.

So I've heard, Topher. I have a flight of Createx iridescent colors in a drawer that I've had for years and never tried. Some day....it may be too late, though. It's probably all dried up.

[customline]

A little update....three steps forward, two steps backward 😔

Due to the unusual amount of sanding (that's a b.s. excuse, Jimmy 🥴) I found it had become necessary to restore the belt molding. The usual remedy was employed.

Well.....how about a mock-up? 🤓

It always makes me feel better. But not much. 😂

[LennyB]

Any remedy that makes you feel better is a good remedy. 🙂

[customline]

1 hour ago, LennyB said:

Any remedy that makes you feel better is a good remedy. 🙂

I was talking about the mock-up, Len, not the "usual remedy"; that made my head hurt. 😣

[mchook]

A shame about the paint but you'll have it just how you want it soon. 

[customline]

12 hours ago, mchook said:

A shame about the paint but you'll have it just how you want it soon. 

Thanks for the encouragement, Mark, this is just normal stuff for me. As long as nature cooperates, I can move it forward. September is gone now so the atmosphere should dry out enough for painting soon. 

[customline]

OK. I got Tamiya white on it today. Two coats. I may need to give it a very light wet sanding because in strong light at some angles, I have ghosts on the right side, very faint.  I think I need to further reduce the thickness of the new belt also. So it's moving slowly but it's moving.  Thanks for beeping as you cruised past. 🥴

[Kanada Kustoms]

Great looking build... Love the color!

[customline]

Thanks, Jon. I'm kinda partial to flat white myself 😂

[TarheelRick]

Great looking build, I have often wondered what this kit would look with a little TLC. Another great filler to use, especially in cut lines is acrylic nail-filler. WalMart sells it in kits in the fingernail polish section. Couple words of warning, it does require good ventilation and do not ever put the part into a dehydrator. One more caveat, begin sanding with 100 grit, it is a hard sanding surface but stronger than the surrounding styrene and sands glass smooth.

[customline]

1 hour ago, TarheelRick said:

Great looking build, I have often wondered what this kit would look with a little TLC. Another great filler to use, especially in cut lines is acrylic nail-filler. WalMart sells it in kits in the fingernail polish section. Couple words of warning, it does require good ventilation and do not ever put the part into a dehydrator. One more caveat, begin sanding with 100 grit, it is a hard sanding surface but stronger than the surrounding styrene and sands glass smooth.

Rick, thanks for your tips. The trouble with a filler that is much harder than the styrene is sanding the surrounding styrene under flush. Usually, when filling small holes and other low spots, I will use CA kicked and sanded immediately while it's still close to the styrene in hardness. Why I didn't do that this time is still a mystery 🤔. I don't know why the filler swelled out of the panel lines but it may be the Tamiya paints are too hot  or I sprayed a too heavy coat. It dries pretty fast so that is indicative of a hot thinner. The filler, Mr. Surfacer 500, is something I have used for years without any issues for filling imperfections. The panel lines were not very deep but maybe there's an incompatibility factor involved as well. I'm being more cautious now.