AMT 1950 Chevrolet 3100 Pickup (Unocal 76)

[Sketch1982]

Has anyone else had fitment issues with this kit or am I just that bad at building models?  The lower rear portion of the cab is so ridiculously out of tolerance in comparison to the body that if I cut/file any more out of each, I'm afraid I'm going to ruin it.  Even with all of the thick styrene cossmembers on the chassis, it's warped heavily.  I've been trying to correct it with a hot water bath.  I'm not knocking AMT by any means and I'm by NO MEANS an experienced modeler, but this is the first kit I've came across that I've had pretty massive issues with.  I've watched several YouTube videos of people who have built the kit, and they all comment on how "there were no real issues with this kit", so I was wondering if I really am just not good enough yet for this one.  I'm building this as a Christmas gift for my mother because she turned 76 this year (hence the Unocal truck).  I'm a box stock builder, not an expert whatsoever.

Edited Thursday at 02:19 AM by Sketch1982

[Volzfan59]

Ian, Are you talking about these cab corners? Like you, I’m an average, box stock builder. It’s not just you. I managed to get the passenger side corner close by trimming it and using superglue. The driver’s side, I got it as close as I could and called it a day. I know that this really isn’t much help, just wanted you to know that it’s more of a kit issue. I’m sure that there are guys on here that have a real solution. A lot of these folks have some amazing skills.

[Motor City]

If you can't make it look right, buy the promo:

AMT Ertl 1950 Chevrolet Chevy Pickup Mariner Blue Promo 6287EO | eBay

I have one and it is quite nice.

[Sketch1982]

On 10/30/2025 at 11:02 AM, Volzfan59 said:

Ian, Are you talking about these cab corners? Like you, I’m an average, box stock builder. It’s not just you. I managed to get the passenger side corner close by trimming it and using superglue. The driver’s side, I got it as close as I could and called it a day. I know that this really isn’t much help, just wanted you to know that it’s more of a kit issue. I’m sure that there are guys on here that have a real solution. A lot of these folks have some amazing skills.

Thank you for your response buddy.  I appreciate it.  Yeah the builders on here absolutely blow me away.  That's exactly how mine looks currently.  I'm going to keep trying to work on it, but I hope I don't completely ruin it.  

[Sketch1982]

On 10/30/2025 at 11:28 AM, Motor City said:

If you can't make it look right, buy the promo:

AMT Ertl 1950 Chevrolet Chevy Pickup Mariner Blue Promo 6287EO | eBay

I have one and it is quite nice.

If I have to I will. Thank you for the suggestion!  

[Volzfan59]

4 hours ago, Sketch1982 said:

Thank you for your response buddy.  I appreciate it.  Yeah the builders on here absolutely blow me away.  That's exactly how mine looks currently.  I'm going to keep trying to work on it, but I hope I don't completely ruin it.  

Good luck with it. I thought about using some body filler but I was afraid I’d make it even worse. I just display the nicer side.

No matter your decision, your momma’s going to love it.

[1930fordpickup]

If you have to glue some evergreen strip to irhe edge and sand it to fit.  Better than filler most of the time. If you dont have any evergreen strips use the sprue plastic. I would file it done thin before gluing to the part.

I believe the issue is the heavenly ran kit lately. 

[DJMar]

I've built this kit numerous times since its first release in 1994. Even though it is a well engineered model, it isn't what I would call an easy build. Nor is it easy to make the final product look like the real truck, unless you invest some time in filling the cab seams and taking care with overall assembly, especially the suspension. This isn't a "shake-n-bake" kit by any means.

The separate lower rear panel with cab corners has always been an issue. Even when new, there was a sizeable gap when the parts were assembled. Undoubtedly the mold has seen some wear over the past 31 years and multiple reissues, which doesn't help the fit.

Your best bet has already been mentioned. Attach the kit part with solvent glue. Fill the gap with styrene rod, plastic strip or stretched sprue, and sand it smooth. Then putty, sand and prime until things are ready for paint.

Regarding the frame, you can often remove a slight to moderate twist with heat. But sometimes the warp isn't going to straighten out no matter what you try. 

If your frame is beyond saving, there's this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/236208489156

If your cab is beyond saving, there's this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/336257663051

If you want to buy another full detail kit, try to find an earlier issue, as the parts will be a bit crisper and better fitting.

If you don't mind it being a curbside, try to find a SnapFast Plus kit. It's basically an unbuilt promo and might be cheaper.