LACQUER PAINTS

[Build Up Boy]

Can anyone tell me; is there a big difference between a "Hardware" store bought rattle can lacquer paint vs. a model brand, such as "Tamiya" rattle can lacquer? I'm talking about basic black & clear products here. This hardware stuff seems to lay out really thick and I'm not likin' the look. Maybe this is what I get for trying to be cheap.

Any comments or opinions would be graetly appreciated.

Marty

[Brendan]

The model car paints are formulated for plastics. They are also meant for multiple coats whereas the hardware store brand paints are meant for one coat. If you're going to be using lacquer that are inexpensive, look at Duplicote or Plasticote (automotive lacquers). These will need an automotive primer first. These paints lay down very similar to the model paints.

[MikeMc]

The model car paints are formulated for plastics. They are also meant for multiple coats whereas the hardware store brand paints are meant for one coat. If you're going to be using lacquer that are inexpensive, look at Duplicote or Plasticote (automotive lacquers). These will need an automotive primer first. These paints lay down very similar to the model paints.

I think Brendan nailed it on the head.....some swear at krylon and others swear by it.

Me I'll stick to HOK, Tamiya and Duplicolor....

[Harry P.]

Another vote for Duplicolor here...

[outlaw035]

marty....i just used testors one coat lacquer for the 1st time....i misted on a light coat...the next day i laid on a wet coat

went on beautiful...im like'n it....neal

[Build Up Boy]

marty....i just used testors one coat lacquer for the 1st time....i misted on a light coat...the next day i laid on a wet coat

went on beautiful...im like'n it....neal

NEAL-

Do you have a picture you could post of the Testors paint job?

Marty

[Build Up Boy]

i could be completely wrong here but i swear there is a difference in "tips" on hobby oriented spray cans versus standard spray cans. hobby tips seem to produce a much finer spray pattern, could be the hole size, could be i'm totally nuts

DAVE-

I'm going to get some "hobby" rattle can lacquer and compare the spray pattern and consistence of the paint as compared to the "hardware" store rattle can lacquer.

Marty

[MikeMc]

NEAL-

Do you have a picture you could post of the Testors paint job?

Marty

Not Neil ....but this Merc is painted Diamond Dust and Lime Ice by testors

I like these paints although you do need clear to visually reduce the flake size...before clear the flake seem "bass boat" like

Edited August 2, 2009 by MikeMc

[outlaw035]

marty...painted but not cleared yet....mystic emerald...neal

[Build Up Boy]

marty...painted but not cleared yet....mystic emerald...neal

THANKS Neal-

That's a bitchin' lookin' ride. I'll have to check out the Testors paint.

Marty

[showbuilder]

testors model master enamel paints and clear......nothing else comes close. i was told by a master modeler......testors makes a great product, you just have to learn how to use them. enamel paint cut with lacquer thinner....that's it. this is my opinion and works for me everytime.

[Guest Gassersgarage]

Well, I'll just say this about my own experence with Testors Lac's I HATE THEM!! Not a single can I've used has the paint layed smooth, all have fished eyed... even when decanted and airbrushed, I even had a can cover my hand in paint, I will stick to Tamiya Lac's for straight from the can paint jobs, goes on great and levels super nice. I don't like using any of the paints that require primer.. pain in the back side to strip. Thats all folks.

Robert

[Raul_Perez]

I use nothing but Testors lacquer. Yes, it works best with their clear.

If you're going to try some of the hardware store paints, you might try them on a spare body first. Some of them cannot be recoated after 24 hours without seeing severe signs of crazing.

Good luck,

[Fisher61]

Another vote for Duplicolor here...

I'm with Harry on this! I have not had a bad paint job since I've been using Duplicolor, straight out of the can as I don't have an airbrush.

[20PSI]

I'm with Harry on this! I have not had a bad paint job since I've been using Duplicolor, straight out of the can as I don't have an airbrush.

I started to use duplicolor laquers and I think its the best paint. Better than testors!

Edited August 17, 2009 by 20PSI

[E St. Kruiser50]

Can anyone tell me; is there a big difference between a "Hardware" store bought rattle can lacquer paint vs. a model brand, such as "Tamiya" rattle can lacquer? I'm talking about basic black & clear products here. This hardware stuff seems to lay out really thick and I'm not likin' the look. Maybe this is what I get for trying to be cheap.

Any comments or opinions would be graetly appreciated.

Marty

Hi Marty

A lot of good opinions here, and so I'll give you my 2 CENTS WORTH also .

The first thing I tell people is do samples first whenever your not sure. I recommend using plastic picnic spoons to try out your painting on.

You can do tape-offs and everything on them. They are made of styrene just like your model kits. Cheap and you don't have to ruin any kit parts.

I'd look at all the answers here as "General Idea's" to start with, but develope your own technique like we all did by trial and error. Mistakes are just part of learning. Shouldn't be something you're afraid of.

I like to paint wet-in-wet, and stay in a 24 hour window for spraying time, like the manufacturers recommend ( I read the directions on the can labels ) so I always recommend clearing within the first 24 hours of the last coat of color, while the color is still "Tacky", and acts as a good"Binder" to hold the clear, but that'll depend on what you eventually decide.

To me there's no real time limit on when to pull the tape, because it depends on what kind of paint your using and the brand, and the weather and the temp., and, and, and .

There's really no '"General rule of thumb", so doing the samples is still your best place to start.

After a while it'll get to be sorta second nature to decide these things, without having to do so many samples, but the samples thing is a good habit to get into.

Hope this adds a little extra help - dave

[Jon Cole]

I just want to be sure here that “fisheyes†are not being confused with “orange peelâ€. A “fisheye†in a paint looks like a few dimples here and there, whereas “orange peel†is just that- looks bumpy like the surface of an orange.

The fisheye is usually the result of a contaminate. It could be from not washing the surface, or a fingerprint to something as seemingly innocent as a nearby motor oil change (if you spray in your garage, for example).

Orange peel is usually a failure of the paint to flow out smooth. This can be caused by spraying too fast, or too far away from the surface, or (if you are airbrushing) not enough thinner.

I have had good luck with both Tamiya and Testors lacquer. The worst aerosol I have used so far is Krylon. I used to have good luck with it, but I believe they now (in the past few years) have a new type nozzle which sprays like a fire hose! As stated by others, they are formulated for home and shop use. Yet I know someone who prefers Krylon as his standard model paint.

Speaking of spray nozzles, some of the most beautiful paint jobs I have seen on models are by a friend who uses Testors Enamel in combo with a polishing kit. He suggests throwing away the white nozzles. Use only the Testors black nozzles. He saves them when he is done, soaks them in an old capped airbrush jar in lacquer thinner.

[Ddms]

i could be completely wrong here but i swear there is a difference in "tips" on hobby oriented spray cans versus standard spray cans. hobby tips seem to produce a much finer spray pattern, could be the hole size, could be i'm totally nuts

I think there is a difference. A Tamiya nozzle is the next best thing to an airbrush.

[Build Up Boy]

I think there is a difference. A Tamiya nozzle is the next best thing to an airbrush.

TOM-

I NOW know for a fact that the hobby lacquer nozzles and spray patterns are alot more fine than the hardware store lacquers, lay out much nicer and more even. I am in the middle of re-doing my body for my W.J. diecast Pro-stock in Tamiya lacquer and so far it's a world of differance from before. I'll post some pic's in the near future before decals go on.

Amazing what you can learn from this board, outstanding!

Marty

[jbwelda]

ddms just said what i was going to say: tamiya has great nozzles. testors (enamel, Ive not yet used the laquers) model master nozzles seem to clog up quick even with the "invert and spray" clearing method. but even more, they really seem to dispurse the paint well, smoothly and evenly.

now if they would just put more in those cans!

[hellonwheelz3]

marty....i just used testors one coat lacquer for the 1st time....i misted on a light coat...the next day i laid on a wet coat

went on beautiful...im like'n it....neal

what do you mean "wet coat"? I realize this may be a REALLY dumb question lol, but i was curious

[beefheart22]

Tamiya paints are pretty pricey, but they are very easy to work with to produce good results. But again, the price is the flaw with that product.