JayC Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 I want to do a stock look for the Coronet I am doing. Some photos I have seen show narrow white wall tires. I tried doing it freehand with the Humbrol matte white I got today. It didn't go so well so I removed the paint. I did a search for white walling tires, but only found threads dealing with wide white walls. I have some white out that I read can be used for white walls. My dilemma is, how can I do narrow white walls? How do I mask off the tiny area for the narrow white walls on my tires? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
horsepower Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 The same method can be used using a "White Out" pen, they seem to cover a little quicker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayC Posted November 3, 2009 Author Share Posted November 3, 2009 Thanks, guys. I appreciate the help. I found a white out pen that was laying around. I tried a small spot on the tire and found out the pen didn't like to stay on target. The tires for this kit have little raised ridges. Here is a pic. I'm beginning to think about just doing a wide white wall. I think I can stay inside the line on the tire since it has that raised ridge. I've also got a bottle of white out that has the little foam tip. That may be easier to use. What do you guys think? Should I do a wide white wall on the tires? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Winter Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 I'm not sure how but If you want to contact Jody M (Smart-Resins) on here, he's done 3 sets for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rattlehead71 Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 I do as the others. A circle template and a white gel pen. Also works for red, gold and blue for pinners. Acrylic paint is what I use for wide whites. Enamel wont dry on the "rubber" for some reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lownslow Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 funny that i know how to to do it but the way this place has been its not worth the time to say how Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlzrocks Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Well, here is my take on it.....get a fine tip acrylic white paint pen from your LHS or craft store, use a "magic bigifier" while doing this...... Apply the paint as best you can ...then to get off the overflow, I use the tip of a toothpick right against the side of the raised edge that has been painted. OR.... you can apply the white acrylic paint to the side of the tip of a toothpick and roll the edge of the toothpick along the top of the raised area of the whitewall line. Again this is with using a magnifying glass and some patience. USE ONLY ACRYLIC PAINT,DO NOT USE ENAMEL AS IT WILL NOT DRY!! I prefer not to use a template....but that is just personal preference. There are many techniques to apply whitewall and tire lettering.....if one don't work for ya try another till you get one you prefer and let us know how it goes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lownslow Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Considering that AFAIK Jay has never had any beef with you, & merely asked for some help, all I can say is that having such an attitude is precisely why "this place" has became the way it is now. A fellow modeler asks for advice/help & all you can do is show your immaturity? No wonder we're losing so many good people that used to post regularly here. We're being overran by a bunch of childish, boorish posters that think they're entitled to act any way that they see fit. This place is rapidly turning into a "higher tech" version of the SH board, & that's sad. I know, I know, everybody that takes offense at my comments go ahead & pile on with the flame jobs. There used to be some common courtesy here, but it's been replaced by those that "shout the loudest", & think that making racially offensive slurs, rude comments, & otherwise disrupting the good times we used to have here merely to grind an axe or pound their agendas into everyone else is cool. I think it's time to put you on ignore, with that attitude towards others. I can say this, with such an arrogant, immature & disruptive attitude as that, while it's certainly not up to me as to your presence here, if you're going to be that way, we really don't need you here. get of it and slide to the left Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Zoom Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 I don't have photos but this is painfully easy to do. Get a circle template (Office Depot & art stores have them in the drafting area), and a white "Gellyroll" fine point gel pen (Michael's & others have them), you center the template over a tire, hold the template & tire w/one hand and holding the pen as straight as possible with the other draw a line around the tire. Takes about 5 to 10 seconds per tire, draw it quickly and smoothly, go over the same area a few times to get it as smooth as possible. You will have to practice; you will learn how centered vs. non-centered works, and what happens when the ink seeps under the template if you aren't careful. Have a paper towel soaked w/some rubbing alcohol to wipe the test whitewalls clean. Lather, rinse, repeat. If you don't have a good set of whitewalls in 5 or 10 minutes of practicing, you probably shouldn't be building model cars in the first place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gramps-xrds Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Here's a way that no one has mentioned yet. I've used it for several yrs with great success. I made a small circle cutter and cut them from sticky backed photo paper. I first used vinyl lettering material and it worked great, but after it was on for a while it reacted w/ the tire and wanted to stretch out of shape so I went to paper. You can cut them to fit just about any tire. Here's a shot of what they look like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayC Posted November 4, 2009 Author Share Posted November 4, 2009 Thanks for the help, guys! This is going to sound really stupid but as I was scrolling to the top to check out other threads I saw my dorky signature. I saw those pennies walking on their 1000 mile journey when it hit me - why don't I try a penny. To my surprise it is almost the perfect size. A nickel may also work, too. I tried a white out pen and the circle itself wasn't bad. I'm going to try something else, though, because the pen isn't fine enough. Too much bled. By the time I was done it looked more like a wide wall. I removed the white out for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novadose71 Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 (edited) I did these a couple years ago... put them in an old rim that accepts a steel axle, probably old AMT, chucked them in a drill and spun them, one at a a time of course, then took a fine brush and thinned Tamiya flat or semigloss white, I don't recall which, and touched it to the spinning tire. Took a few tries but turned out nice Edited November 4, 2009 by novadose71 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Winter Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Jay, Sorry it took so long to find a good picture of the white walls but I had 125 pictures of the same car to look through, This is the best I had after I fixed the wheel, on the finished car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terror Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 There is almost always an indent for the white wall on the tire.I mask the whole tire then use a tooth pick to define my cut line.Then cut with new blade,peel the area I want to paint and spray it flat white.The paint will never dry on the rubber,so one day,it hit me why not put some future floor wax on the painted area.Low and behold it worked,now I can touch them and their dry.I don't know about the long hall.I just stumbled on to this like 2 weeks ago.It might peel of like a scab after a year or 2 on the shelf,I don't know.Has anybody else tried this?Here is a pic of the first attempt.A little ruff but still I think it came out pretty good for first try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.