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1981 Mustang Cobra


Eric Stone

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I used Testors Model Master 'Flesh Tone' as a base and washed it with Model Master 'Leather', then dry-brushed it with a little bit of Model Master Tan and it looked pretty close to the Tan/Chamois/Carmal color Ford offered.

Your Red interior looks good and 'right' for your build. I like the cobra so far!

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You can also go to the auto parts store or one of the Mustang supply houses (like LateModelResto) and get a can of the tan, or any other Mustang color, that they use when restoring or recoloriong the cars' interiors. The yellow coupe in my avatar came with the tan interior and I bought several cans to use on it, and I still use them for modeling. Same deal with all the different shades of black I got from Eastwood when I was building the car.....you'll find them on most of my models since I never used them up when building the yellow car.

Edited by Mark Brown
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Yeah, I had thought about mixing some paint to get the right color, but I wanted to flock the carpet too, since that hatch floor is right below the rear window. Couldn't find any flocking the right color. Really, I've been having problems finding flocking in ANY color! I've been looking at the big chain stores locally- Hobby Lobby, Michael's, JoAnn Crafts, and also Texas Art Supply. One LHS said they normally carry some, and would have more in next week, so I will check back there. O'Reilly's and Auto Zone were a bust as far as interior colors.

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Yeah, I don't think they had all that.

When you use that stuff, do you use it over primer, or on bare plastic? Any other special prep work?

I've always used it over primer just to be on the safe side, but I'd be surprised if it caused problems since it's formulated to use on plastics, as well as fabric. When I recolored the red interior on my original '86 hatch (the one that I had to scrap because of the terrible cage install) I painted the plastic without primer and didn't have any problems at all.

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We used adhesion promoter when we did a friends CRX interior color change. We would shoot the promoter, and as per the can, while the promoter was still tacky would shoot the paint onto the plastic parts. Still looks good 3 years later.

Thanks for the reminder Mark; glad you suggested those sources! :lol:

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We used adhesion promoter when we did a friends CRX interior color change. We would shoot the promoter, and as per the can, while the promoter was still tacky would shoot the paint onto the plastic parts. Still looks good 3 years later.

Thanks for the reminder Mark; glad you suggested those sources! :unsure:

Looking real good! I tried some adhesion promoter, on a kit once, and it crazed badly. so be careful if using it on a kit.

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Yeah, some of the adhesion promoter can be pretty hot......and honestly with the new formula of Styrene the companies seem to be using these days, I am a little scared to try it. Guess that is what sprues are for!

You wouldn't need adhesion promoters for modeling applications - the vinyl/fabric paints stick to plastic just fine without them. I never even used them when using the paints on cars, and never had any problem with the paint not sticking (as long as the surface was prepped/cleaned adequately).

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We used the promoter as a 'just in case' measure. I used alcohol, followed by MEK/Acetone mix, followed by soapy water to prep his interior parts. When he sold the car, the dye/paint still looked good and fresh (DO NOT use MEK on model car styrene, you will have a blobbed up puddle of ruined plastic if you do. Same with acetone......these chemicals don't play well with hobby styrene).

If the dyes work well just as they are, sounds like a viable source for interior colors then. Thanks to those who responded on this subject.

Edited by whale392
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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I got thoroughly distracted over the holidays and was away from home for a bit. I'm trying to get back into the swing of things, and I'm trying to get this project wrapped up so I can bail off into another one.

I've been making some progress, not a lot to photograph, but have been accomplishing little things that are needed to complete it. I had to fabricate some radiator hoses, since the kit does not have them. I made a coil and mounting bracket, and mounted it to the driver's side inner fender. I've been doing lots of detail painting here and there, and started the chassis assembly beginning with the exhaust, and the engine and transmission. Next will be fitting the radiator and hoses in, then the front suspension rounded out by the rear suspension and shocks.

In the middle of all that, I'm trying to get the body trim paint finished. Once that's done, I need to install the glass, then paint the headliner and pillars to match the interior- or paint the headliner and pillars then install the glass, I'll have to figure that sequence out. Once that's done, it should all be ready to go together. Headlights and taillights, attach the nose, and it should all be done! I haven't finished a project in 5 years, so I'm excited...

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It is coming along nice. Your apparently taking more time to detail than I did and its paying off. Not sure about the chassis as both my 1/1s are old as the model your building lol, But the exhaust looks right on. The pipes laying in the back seat of my 82 look just like that

Thanks. I tried to detail the exhaust to look like the '91 and '93 Mustang factory H-pipes that are sitting on my back porch right now, but a little cleaner. I wasn't trying to weather it to look like a beater, but I wanted it to look like it has had enough miles for a few oil changes at least- not pristine. Even the pristine cars aren't perfect. I found out on my buddy's brand new (at the time) 08 GT500 that they don't paint the axle tubes from the factory, even on the high-end Mustangs. It had ~100 miles on it, and the pumpkin still looked good, but the tubes were covered with surface rust from the Gulf Coast humidity, and it's a garage-kept car that RARELY sees rain (and probably hadn't ever at the time I initially noticed the rust). Anyway, that was the look I was going for, and I think unless I'm replicating something specifically different, I will use this idea for most of my builds.

Thanks for following along.

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