Farmboy Posted January 15, 2010 Posted January 15, 2010 (edited) The more I looked at the 300C, the more I thought it would lend itself well to an El Camino type of body. I had initially planned to use the rear window complete and removed it that way, but it now seems the build would look better with a longer bed. So... I left the cut back from the front of the roof because I didn't want to mess up the detail around the vent windows and top of the windshield that will need bmf during sanding operations. The roof will be shortened so the pillars line up (or closely line up) with the door edge and the roof mate with the front. I'll remove the part behind the pillars and square off the rear window. The box part of the build will not follow the slope of the trunk line, rather it will go horizontal. A quick eyeball shows it will be just below the height of the fins. This will mean removing the plastic that's there and building a rectangular frame to drop in. I'll put an aluminum (looking) slatted cover on it. The rear end will stay the same with the vertical trunk lines extending up to the side of the box. A door handle on the left will convey the side opening function so the whole back end doesn't need restyling. That's the plan....I'll post updates as I get them done. Think widening the wheelwells and adding a 2nd rear axle is over the top? Edited February 27, 2010 by Farmboy
Joker Posted January 15, 2010 Posted January 15, 2010 great start..and yes a second rear axle is over the top IMO. How about making the doors longer? just use a pencil to mark the sides till you're ok with it. Just remember to make the inside door panel to match.BTW the side swinging tailgate is an awesome idea. Keep posting your progress. Kit Bash
Farmboy Posted January 16, 2010 Author Posted January 16, 2010 This is the roof after shortening it. It looks like two cut lines, but there's only one and that's the line nearest the center. The other line is a beauty or character line in the front of the roof. It went together pretty well. Note also the B pillars are inset in to the sides of the body. A little filing should even out any discrepancies in the arc. I made a slight adjustment (about 1/16th of an inch) to take advantage of the headliner engraving. it just so happened that the amount to be removed lined up with a rib in the headliner. I couldn't pass it up.
Space Cowboy Posted January 16, 2010 Posted January 16, 2010 Great work so far and a great idea. Keep those pics coming.
Farmboy Posted January 16, 2010 Author Posted January 16, 2010 I've gone ahead and made a template for the pickup bed cover. Based on this, I'll cut the rectangle for the bed 'walls'. I taped the template to the body and misted black primer so I had an outline to follow and this is the opening. Now to cut a long thin piece of styrene to make the bed wall. It will be one piece, rising to just below the fin height at the rear, resolving in to the body at the base of the rear window
Sixties Sam Posted January 17, 2010 Posted January 17, 2010 Looking good! I like the concept. Chrysler should have made this to compete with the Ranchero and El Camino! Sam
Farmboy Posted January 17, 2010 Author Posted January 17, 2010 A couple of shots of the rear box rough-in. Next will be overall bodywork, primer coat and a cover for the box. Notice the box is horizontal (more or less) and resolves into the body near the base of the window. There will be trim applied as well.
Farmboy Posted January 19, 2010 Author Posted January 19, 2010 A couple of shots of my primer queen... I'll be adding 3 parallel rub strips to break up the flat expanse using half-round styrene strips. I'm not sure if I should have them body color or chrome. I'm leaning toward chrome (alclad or bmf). Comments welcome.
Farmboy Posted January 23, 2010 Author Posted January 23, 2010 (edited) A few mock up shots to pass along. I've replaced the stock drip rail I removed when I shortened the top. Past experience taught me its easier to replace than to repair. Small diameter styrene does the job. I use acc as primary adhesive then run a bead of thinned white glue along the top groove so it blends in evenly. This is a better view of the drip rail. The three rub strips are positioned for the photo. I'm not sure whether to blend them in to the body or go chrome. The colors I've decided to go with are cream for the top and a sage green body. I haven't decided on whitewalls and whether or not to lower the body. The interior will be two shades of sand/sable. I'll be starting on the interior soon. Comments/suggestions are welcome. Edited January 23, 2010 by Farmboy
James Flowers Posted January 23, 2010 Posted January 23, 2010 I like what you have done so far in the bed area. I think the side window area needs opened up in the top rear of it. Just looks a little to far down in that area to me. Looking forward to more of this.
Farmboy Posted January 24, 2010 Author Posted January 24, 2010 I thought you'd like to see how close the '57 300 compares to a '65 El Camino. It's almost graceful in comparison. Comments/critiques welcome.
Farmboy Posted January 24, 2010 Author Posted January 24, 2010 This is the rear window trim before sanding and bmf. The bottom horizontal strip will be smoothed in to the body and left body color. this is the inside. The piece of cardboard is so I don't push and flex the backside of the bodywork.
Kenny Posted January 25, 2010 Posted January 25, 2010 That looks great, you're off to a good start. Good thing it's only a model, that roofline looks like it would be a real headknocker!
Farmboy Posted January 25, 2010 Author Posted January 25, 2010 Thanks for the comment Ken. I agree it looks cramped, but it hasn't been chopped and trial fitting the interior shows there's still a healthy gap behind the seat/rear window area, though I may decide to close that up a little. When I shortened the top, I looked at it in terms of a porthole t-bird. I thought of changing the side window profile (re: el camino style) but the curve is such a distinctive part of the 300's personality that I left it.
Farmboy Posted January 28, 2010 Author Posted January 28, 2010 Here's a tip that may be of use. Whenever I used a rattle can to paint a car, I always ran in to trouble around the engine bay. If I got it fully and evenly painted, I ended up with thick paint and blobbed out script...especially with metallics. I could 'decant' and airbrush, but I find it's a lot of hassle since Glad Press n' Seal. I spray what I can separately, then I mask off the bay, fenderwells or anywhere else that has raised detail etc., mist on 3 or 4 coats to cover all the different facets and such, then remove it. It leaves no residue, and once removed, allows me to paint with an even sweep not having to pause over intricate areas. There's no color discrepancy either. Problem solved. And, where you determine how much to use, it's seamless, so masking off interiors from the finish coats or other overspray is no prob. I don't put the hood on the body when I paint, rather I tape it to the stand or nearby so I still get the same color without that tiny sliver of primer showing through where the paint didn't cover
Farmboy Posted January 29, 2010 Author Posted January 29, 2010 ...and here's the sage green. very silvery. went on nice. 2000 more coats and I'll shoot some clear.! The top is going good ol' Humbrol enamel creeam white color..
Farmboy Posted February 3, 2010 Author Posted February 3, 2010 Here she is, foiled. The wood strips on the back are for the pic only. They'll be a bit shorter wtih bevelled ends and have a clear finish. The body only needs some slight detail touchup here and there and some clear. I changed the background shade hoping the body color didn't wash out with the flash, didn't really work that much better. The green is greener than it looks. Next up is the interior. Comments critiques welcome.
The Creative Explorer Posted February 3, 2010 Posted February 3, 2010 I must say, the concept shows quite naturally. Look's like it could've happened in real life. Nice work
Farmboy Posted February 14, 2010 Author Posted February 14, 2010 Finally got back to this car. The interior was going to go tan, but I thought a two tone green would better relate. So, here is the 'main' green for the interior. The seat inserts and door panel centers will go a very thin green, almost a cream. Semigloss clear will cover everything and bmf will follow. The dash only has a narrow stip painteddark green. It looks like a mold line, but it turned out ok. I've painted the cluster silver as wellas the radio and a/c. The rest of the dash is body color. Decals are supplied for the guages.I'll post the finished two tone green in a day or two. As always, comments/critiques welcome.
tuffone20 Posted February 14, 2010 Posted February 14, 2010 Wow that is coming along very nice and I can't wait to see it all done!! Keep the photos coming. Marty
Farmboy Posted February 18, 2010 Author Posted February 18, 2010 Here's the interior in the two tone green scheme. There's just a little touch up to do. The bmf goes on over the flat paint after a coat of future. Note also the thin 'padded' section of the dash. As mentioned, it looks like it's in all probability a mould seam as I haven't seen this on any 1:1 vehicles but it was convenient and I thought it added to the build. Anyway, I have to make a back to the compartment slightly back from the door seam along with rear parcel deck. The rear had to be cut off to accomodate the mods. Thanx for the interest. As usual, comments/critiques are welcome.
Railfreak78 Posted February 18, 2010 Posted February 18, 2010 At first I did not like this one but now it is looking really really good! You opened my eyes!
Farmboy Posted February 21, 2010 Author Posted February 21, 2010 Here's the back wall and rear parcel deck for the passenger compartment. It took a lot of cutting and fitting but it sits in quite nicely. It just got a primer coat and needs a little smoothing, but the other two pics are to show you how it relates. It will go body color. The steering wheel goes pale green, and the column goes body color. As always, comments/ critiques welcome.
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