Steve H. Posted January 13, 2007 Posted January 13, 2007 Bill, A friend who builds race cars had the same issue with trying to replicate smoked glass. He needed to do the windscreen that was molded as part of the resin body. We brainstormed the following... Covered it with BMF, used Tamiya smoke (clear black) and buried it under Tamiya clear. When it was polished out it looked quite convincing.
MrObsessive Posted January 23, 2007 Author Posted January 23, 2007 Okay, here’s just a mini update on the ‘Vette……………I finally finished the interior and painted and detailed the dash. Here’s a couple pics………. When I went to the MAMA meeting this past Saturday, I realized I coulda saved myself a lot of work by using flocking that was already the color I needed. Norm Veber of Reps and Mins of Md, had the exact color in flocking...............oh well! :? The flocking I put on square by square, and then was airbrushed in the same buff color as the seats but with a touch of brown put in for contrast. I didn’t take pics yet, but I also Alcladed the wheels and they look much better than the chrome ones that are in the kit That’s it for the moment………….hopefully I can get this all done by the weekend and then start on the next one! :wink:
simonr Posted January 24, 2007 Posted January 24, 2007 Bill, awesome work so far! Can I suggest something?..you could a little wash to the bottom of the car(specially on the engine, disc brakes, and transmision) and it could look even more real. I'm so impress with the bottom that I guess that is maybe waht it only needs to be perfect. Keep the good work on. Hop to see more. Simón
simonr Posted January 24, 2007 Posted January 24, 2007 Bill, awesome work so far! Can I suggest something?..you could a little wash to the bottom of the car(specially on the engine, disc brakes, and transmision) and it could look even more real. I'm so impress with the bottom that I guess that is maybe waht it only needs to be perfect. Keep the good work on. Hope to see more. Simón
MrObsessive Posted January 24, 2007 Author Posted January 24, 2007 Bill, awesome work so far! Can I suggest something?..you could a little wash to the bottom of the car(specially on the engine, disc brakes, and transmision) and it could look even more real. I'm so impress with the bottom that I guess that is maybe waht it only needs to be perfect. Keep the good work on. Hope to see more. Simón Thanks Simón! Unfortunately, washes are not my forté! I'd have to practice, 'cuz everytime I tried some kind of wash, it comes out looking muddy or just not realistic enough to my eyes. This'll just be a shelf model when done............I'm not fixin' to set the contest tables on fire with this one!
jbwelda Posted January 25, 2007 Posted January 25, 2007 looking good; i was confused why you wanted to shoot future over the car before primer but i get it: a barrier coat to prevent the crappy plastic from crazing. one more use for the miracle tool. and a friend of mine showed me that razor edge business on a 1:1 car he was building for a customer: really makes the car look sharp and no one is ever able to figure out why! oh one more thing: it appears you got tired of your tamiya paint stand coming apart in your hands too! im going to tape mine up like yours when i get home tonite; dont know why that hadnt occurred to me! only problem is then it wont swivel and i like that swivelling so i can move the body without disturbing the stand (or to be more precise, the dust under the stand!). man thats looking great; i love the detail on the motor and undercarriage as much as the rest of it!
MrObsessive Posted January 26, 2007 Author Posted January 26, 2007 Actually Bill, The paint stand will still swivel even with it taped. The swivel part of the stand is built inside the ribbed section on the bottom. It seemed no matter how hard I pressed the one section into the other, the main section that holds the body would still separate! :shock: I still like the stand..................sure beats trying to rig up a hanger or some other contraption to paint the body on!
Pro Tech Posted January 26, 2007 Posted January 26, 2007 Bill, Super job!! Vette looks awesom, love the color. Charlie Pro Tech
jbwelda Posted January 26, 2007 Posted January 26, 2007 thanks for the reply bill, yeah i realized that when i got home and looked at the stand. its now taped securely! again great work on the vette and you think like me...i like opening up panels that are supposed to be open. bit of a pain sometimes but well worth it looks-wise.
Harvezter Posted January 27, 2007 Posted January 27, 2007 Looking great Bill! I love how you cut out the grill. By the way, the stand you have it on... I love that! Is that something you made or is it something that can be purchased?
MrObsessive Posted January 27, 2007 Author Posted January 27, 2007 By the way, the stand you have it on... I love that! Is that something you made or is it something that can be purchased? Jared, the paint stand is from Tamiya.........it's very good except you have to watch out that the swivel doesn't drop out from under you! You can order one by going to this place.
MrObsessive Posted January 28, 2007 Author Posted January 28, 2007 Okay guys and gals here's all she wrote!! I'm jus' gonna give you teaser pic......... If you wanna see more you'll have to go here........ Psssst............and if you wanna know what's next............weeeeellll just click here..... :mrgreen:
JAFFA Posted January 30, 2007 Posted January 30, 2007 holy cr@p! thats one sweet build, it looks great and its was very interesting following the work in such a therile (yes i know, i cant spell to thurile, therile or whatever....) progress-through-progress way.
sno_man80 Posted February 5, 2007 Posted February 5, 2007 whats the point of the Future floor wax?? And when you clear coat, how long do you wait between coats? Same question with multiple color coats, thanks.
MrObsessive Posted February 5, 2007 Author Posted February 5, 2007 whats the point of the Future floor wax?? And when you clear coat, how long do you wait between coats? Same question with multiple color coats, thanks. Scott, the purpose of applying the Future Floor Wax before any primer or paint, is to guard against crazing. :shock: Revell's (and to some extent RC2's) plastic in recent years is very susceptible to crazing if you're using any "hot" automotive paint. Some have said that the "cooler" paints such as Tamiya lacquers and others don't have this effect. However, if you want to paint your model in anything other than the colors the hobby paints offer------you're gonna have to barrier the plastic in some way. I like to use Future because it's simple and quick, and the military guys have been using this for years which is where I picked up this technique. It also guards against that nasty bleed through yellow or red plastic. If you're building a diorama, it also makes great water! Other guys like to use a product called "BIN Zinser Sealer", which is just as effective, but is more work to mix up and airbrush on the body. Wait times? I'd say about 5 minutes between Future coats.........about the same for color and clear coats. There's not always a fast and hard rule as it will depend on the humidity, your mix of thinner to paint ratio, if your spraying with a can, type of paint, etc.
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