Plasticoat T-235 Primer

[Len Woodruff]

Any of use Plasticoat T-235 Primer. I just started using it and it seems "grainier" than some of the other primers I have used including Tamiya. Does anyone have any "secrets" for using this primers.

[38 Crush]

Len,

I use Plasticote primer, but the nuumber is 19000 and 19001 (white & Gray sandable primer) I've never seen T235. But, I swear on Plasticote It works great! I know many out there use Duplicolor but for me that's the worst primer I ever used. If the T235 is grainier Does is sand good? and does it work good as a barrier?

38 Crush

[935k3]

Any of use Plasticoat T-235 Primer. I just started using it and it seems "grainier" than some of the other primers I have used including Tamiya. Does anyone have any "secrets" for using this primers.

It is an Automotive primer and is not as fine as Tamiya's fine primer. Tamiya's is the finest primer theer is. The Plastikote sands beautifully and is good for parts without fine detail. Tamiya's is expensive I use it on things like a finely detailed dashboard but the Plastikote is good for allot of stuff. If you use it on something with allot of detail that needs sanded you can use an abrasive cleaner and a toothbrush to smooth it down instead of sandpaper. I use Soft Scrub a bathroom and kitchen cleaner.

[E St. Kruiser50]

The only Plasticote Primer I've ever used successfully is their white T-237 sandable primer. Lays down smooth and sands beautifully when it dries for at least 24 hours.

The other primer I use is a gray Duplicolor High-build primer, which can be decanted and thinned, and sprayed through an airbrush for those who think it builds up to much. Sands wonderfully also.

The thing to remember about priming and painting is that the conditions under which you spray makes all the difference.

That's why real-time car painters spray in a heated, lit and well ventilated spray booth.

Most guys here from what I've read, spray out-doors or in a un-heated garage, which especially in the winter months leaves a lot to be desired for spraying conditions, and really affects every aspect of painting.

So, if you are spraying out-doors, there's a lot more to consider than just the paint or primer when there's problems.

I have a walk-in 5X10 spray booth that is heated, well lit, and ventilated, and I have complete control over the temp.

I usually spray my paint at around 80 degree's any time of the year, here in cold, rainy Oregon.

Paint and primer lays down like glass .

Edited February 18, 2010 by Treehugger Dave

[PatRedmond]

I use T-235 as my base primer and Tamiya White as my final primer coat.

[Lownslow]

ive had nothing but problems with t-235 couldnt find a good can it never dried. after 30$ worth of cans i switched to evercoat flexible primer ad this weekend im gonna try SEM primer. if all else fails im going with the expensive option of urethane

[Mooneyzs]

I use Plasti-kot Spot Filler & Primer part # 466 which is a lacquer primer

[Dr. Cranky]

That's my primer of choice. I don't use any other . . . no secrets, no tricks . . . works beautifully!

[MrObsessive]

I also have had no problems with Plastikote primer. As Dave mentioned, I spray indoors in a paint booth. It's located in the upstairs part of my house, so the temp is somewhere around 70-75°.

Now I'm one of the paranoid ones that doesn't trust aerosol cans--------I don't know if that makes a difference, but I decant just about everything into an airbrush jar.

[Len Woodruff]

Thanks guys for all of your reponses. I have been using Black Gold primer for the last 10 years but ran out. I thought I would try Plasti-Coat. Looks like I just need to use it a few more times to get the "knack" of it.

[Dr. Cranky]

I warm mine up in the sink . . . and that also helps thin it out . . . geez and I had said no tricks . . .

[Marc @ MPC Motorsports]

Len,

I used T-235 in the early 2000's before I started using Tamiya primer. Tamiya Fine Surface Primer is all I use now, both white and grey.

Marc

[spkgibson]

The best primer ,In my opinion is,the Dupli Color Primer sealer,it works great for body work,and doesn't build up,I use it right out of the can,I use it for all my body work,and after around a few days of dry time,you can paint your color coats on,with no worries about your body work showing through,The number on it is DAP 1699,It comes in Gray,Black and Red Oxide,the average cost is around $5-$7 depending on where you get it,mainly auto part stores...........and the tamiya white is compatable with it also,This stuff works great!..................Steve Ketterer

[weasel]

i like ALL the colors...the white [T234?] does take a long time to dry, but, the grey, black and red, depending how heavy, are dry in 15 mins!! sand it in 30... i also like the coverage, you don't need a lot for good, 1 shot coverage, yet, still provide a 'barrier' for the plastic...i like to use #2000 paper, wet, before any color coats..

and, when wet, it may look grainy, but, when dry, smooth as a baby's buuuuut...

Edited February 18, 2010 by weasel

[Len Woodruff]

Len,

I used T-235 in the early 2000's before I started using Tamiya primer. Tamiya Fine Surface Primer is all I use now, both white and grey.

Marc

Thanks Marc. I was wondering have you used any HOK or other "hot lacquer" over Tamiya primer?

Edited February 18, 2010 by Len Woodruff

[Len Woodruff]

Not Marc Nellis, but you have to keep your paint compatible. Tamiya primer is not going to stand up to a wet coat of super-hot automotive paint, solvents or reducer. So if you're using those, you either need to be very careful and "sneak up" on it with several mist coats before laying a heavier color coat, or use a primer that's designed for that kind of heat.

Thanks Mark.

[Marc @ MPC Motorsports]

Thanks Marc. I was wondering have you used any HOK or other "hot lacquer" over Tamiya primer?

Len,

I have airbrushed HOK thinned with Gunze Mr Color thinner over Tamiya primer. You still need to "sneak" up on it a little bit with light coats, but not as much as with regular lacquer thinner. Tamiya now sells a lacquer thinner that is similar to Gunze and should provide similar results.

Marc

[Len Woodruff]

Len,

I have airbrushed HOK thinned with Gunze Mr Color thinner over Tamiya primer. You still need to "sneak" up on it a little bit with light coats, but not as much as with regular lacquer thinner. Tamiya now sells a lacquer thinner that is similar to Gunze and should provide similar results.

Marc

Thanks for the "heads up" Marc. You know me well enough to know I don't sneak up on anything so I best use what I know works.

[Agent G]

I've been using Plastikote for years and love it. Keep in mind Valspar's "sandable primer" is the same thing relabled.