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Another I started to redo is my TriDrive.I was lookin at it one day and said...man it needs to be a day cab and have really big front wheels, so..I think the frame is gonna get stripped and I my SBFA it Im not sure.It depends on the paint, how well it comes off that is.Whats good for enamel?P1060832.jpgP1060835.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

So macattack the brake fluid worked but any other paint would have come off in a day or two and no scraping.UGH!So chassis was disassambled and dipped got the new wheels and a new hood from porky which is awsome by the way(Thnx again).Just gotta figure out how to mount it.parts2.jpg

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So the wife had the camera and I ahd to use the phone for these but here are two pics, first the frame stripped new front suspension(SBFA) and rims mounted and painted.I used spazstix for the first time and think it came out ok.I poof canned the black so the chrome didnt turn out as smooth as I wanted, the next time Ill use the air brush for both.And the second pic is of the new hood porky sent me I sanded and worked on it a bit not much.I did take the grinder to it and got rid of the fender lip and put a strip of plastic in.Now question does the cab stay in the same place with the new hood,I would think it does but Im not sure.pete2.jpgpete1.jpg

Edited by Pete1980
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Dave,

You could tape the cab and hood together so both hands are free. Mark the fender at the center of opening and measure the distance between that line and center of wheel hub. If any difference, adjust cab as needed and remount.

BTW, nice job on the BMF.

Edited by mountaindewd
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Thnx Les.Got some better pics, and got a bit more done to the tri drive.Everything on the frame was completly disassembled suspension, braces, swaped the front suspension took a little idea from Mr Pete himself(Tim).You can also see the gap between the front fender and tire.Unfortunatly Im leaving it this way cause Ive already taken this stuff appart before and dont wanna stress the plastic too much.chassis2.jpgchassis3.jpgchassis.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

I finally did some work on the tri drive....Uh yeah its not a tri drive n e more.Got some KFS 2 holes in the mail and did some front suspension work to try and correct that front wheel spacing.The hood was kind of a pain, I had to modify the 377 hinges to work, and the hood and cab dont line up very well.Maybe when its all together.Got a few more things in the mail, shes gonna be slingin chains so, hopfully itll look good. myfonepics281.jpgmyfonepics284.jpg

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WOW, I thought I had this on my "Watch" list, but didn't! I miss a little and BIG things happen! I'm kinda sad to see the tri drive go, but I think you made an excellent choice on the sleeper. I'll be watching, now!! :lol:

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Wow thnx guys!Yeah somtimes I can never make up my mind.May be the reason Ive been building this for 2 years.But anyway I got the hood painted, frame painted and new wheels n hubs painted.got my chain racks built and I guess Im gonna mount them on the frame not sure.After calling more than 2 dozen Pete dealers and such yeasterday I spoke with a guy in Pa. who finally gave me the dimensions I needed for a new project, the last pic.wont be for this truck but should come out good.myfonepics286.jpgmyfonepics291.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok so here is my issue, I decided to try n add a third tank but its a tad smaller round and Im gonna have to cut it down a bit.Any ideas are welcome Im stuck.

What are you planning the third tank for? If you're adding for a wet line for hydraulics, first I would suggest putting it behind your fuel tank, not in place of the battery box like you show it in the pic. It looks to me that you should have the room between the tank and chain holder to do that or just mount it on the passenger side of the frame opposite the chain hanger. Also if it's for a wet line, those tanks are usually added by the dealer, so slight differences would be prototypical for that. Hope this helps! ;)

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Well I didnt really know why I wanted to add it I just thought it might look good.Now Im not sure I want to add it at all.Would a truck have only one chain hanger?Would the hydraulic tank be a bit smaller and why would a truck have it?Sry for the questions.I really need more help here thnx guys.

Edited by Pete1980
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Pete1980,

I thing that your build looks very good so far!!!

I like very much the traditional look 2 toolboxes - 2 fueltanks and now you have 2 chainracks. I believe that you don't need anything more than these. And as it mentioned above by Tim, an SBFA with Big sleeper should be a cool truck. A heavy long hauler!!!!

I don't thing that your build needs a third fuel tank. Save this tank for a future project. Just thing about a nice headache rack, it should look realy nice with the chain racks.

About your questions, a working truck can be equiped with all these goodys that the operator needs to do the job. If there is not every day necessary to use chains one chain rack is ok, but it is more practical to have one for each side of the chassis. Additional tanks should have their own dimentions in diameter or in leght. Its all up to the needs of the operator or the needs of the job that the truck is used for.

Hope this helps...

Greeitngs,

Kostas.

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Well I didnt really know why I wanted to add it I just thought it might look good.Now Im not sure I want to add it at all.Would a truck have only one chain hanger?Would the hydraulic tank be a bit smaller and why would a truck have it?Sry for the questions.I really need more help here thnx guys.

Well, let me see if I can help! :lol:

First, one chain hanger for tire chains should be fine. Most of the over the road trucks I've seen only have one, I think, because there aren't that many chains on a noraml truck. I know when I was still driving over the road, the area with the most chains required to meet the chain laws was Donner Pass in California just west of Reno. The chain laws for the pass was enough to cover 8 tires, and the chains must be with the truck just to go over the pass, whether it was snowing or not. The configuration was, at that time, all 4 front axle drive tires, the outer 2 rear drive tires, and at least one outer tire on each of the trailer axles, placed on oppisite sides of the trailer. In the case of the front drive axles, chains called 3 railers, which would look like a regular set of chains with another section like in your picture added on, were required. The trailer rule was like this, if you had a chain on the driver side front axle outer tire, the other chain would be placed on the passenger side rear axle outer tire.

As for the hydraulic tank, the size of the tank in your pic would be perfect, because they are typically smaller than the fuel tanks. A truck would have the hydraulic tank for either two reasons, if they haul a dump or other hydraulic trailer or just for the flexibility of trailers it could haul. I drove a truck for a towing company called a Landoll that was more or less a stepdeck style trailer, but it was a tractor trailer rollback wrecker. Here's a pic I found online of that type of trailer.

317C.jpg

The rear tandems were hydraulicly controlled, and as they slid forward like in the pic, the bed tilted. As they slid to the rear, the trailer leveled out. I would say that if you plan to have it as a heavy hauler or just even if you have no idea what trailer will be behind it yet, go with the hydraulic tank. That way if you decide to put a dump trailer behind it, you already have the tank in place.

If you have any more questions or need any more advice, don't be afraid to ask! :lol:

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