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Fender clearance issue.


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I bought some kits to bash and put the rest in my race car stash and forgot about them. I ran out of parts for my old school rail and was looking for something to do.

I need to make clearance for some wider taller tires on a 69 camaro. On a back yard race car it's no big deal to just wrap some sand paper around the correct size pvc pipe and go to town. But I have a set of 69 camaro, mustang, chevelle, and challenger set aside to build into race cars and I want that factory built trans am look to them. So I'd like to keep the fender opening with factory look to them.

The camaro has a distinct lip around the fender for chrome trim. I think I only need to remove that amount to make everything fit. I was thinking of using a round diamond file so I could control the removal of material and keep it uniformed by starting at one end of the fender and dragging it across to the other side. It should remove an equal ammount and follow the contours, right?

Got any better ideas?? Not sure I want to try a motor tool for this. I'm afraid I'll screw it up real quick and end up using the pvc and sand paper anyways.

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Use some emery cloth, around 160 grit. The heavier cloth is stiff enough that when you can double it it will roll instead of having a sharp crease. Roll it tight for the sharp radius and looser for the more round ones. Takes material off slower than the other methods you mentioned and gives a lot more control.

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Use some emery cloth, around 160 grit. The heavier cloth is stiff enough that when you can double it it will roll instead of having a sharp crease. Roll it tight for the sharp radius and looser for the more round ones. Takes material off slower than the other methods you mentioned and gives a lot more control.

Thanks for the idea. I have some in my tool box used for polishing cranks and bearings and such. I'll have to see what grit that is. If not the right grit I know just where to pick some up.

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The polishing grits with be to fine. I'm talking some pretty coarse stuff for initial shaping then you can go back to the finer stuff for final shaping and finishing. Think of that first grit as the torch and the finer stuff as the grinder on a real car.

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The polishing grits with be to fine. I'm talking some pretty coarse stuff for initial shaping then you can go back to the finer stuff for final shaping and finishing. Think of that first grit as the torch and the finer stuff as the grinder on a real car.

Will do. I'll still have to check and see what I have and then check the store Monday and see what they have available. Thanks again for that idea.

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Gently heat the fender and push it out with the backside of a spoon.

That's a good idea for making a lip or flared fender, but I want these to follow the stock lines of the original car for that showroom stock look. I'll keep that in mind though for other projects. I never thought of that.

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Tub wont work, since that would be against the rules for the kind of race car I am trying to build, and then your still stuck in the front. See that little lip on the front fender just under the body line, that's about all that needs to be removed on both front and back.

I'm trying to do some things that I have not tried before and with only one body, I need to get it right the first time. That makes me a little worried about it I guess, but I'm going to have to start somewhere and stop worrying about it being so dang perfect. As I know from real life exp. circle and road race cars do not stay perfect for long. Racing is a contact sport.

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It's a rather simple fix , simply add short blocks to the ends of your shackles , it will lift the rear end enough to allow your tires to clear the wheel wells. This will also give you the proper rake that all of the Super Stock cars had back in the day.

Donn Yost

Lone Wolf Custom Painting

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