Masking Tape?

[Deckerz]

Iv run into problems lately with masking, i use tamiya acrylics for paint.

The problem is once iv shot one colour i usually wait 24 hours before shooting another, iv never had to mask before because i usually do fade effects but iv got to mask for the project im working on right now.

I shot flat black for the front half of the car, waited 24 hours, masked onto the black to paint the back half but when i took the masking off (i always to this slowly) i took some of the paint off too.

If i shoot the black again then clear coat it should this prevent the masking from tearing the paint off?

Also what is the best masking tape? Iv just been using conventional painter paper tape from hardware store.

[Steve Keck]

Declan,

First I rarely use acrylics but two things come to mind reading your post.

Tamiya makes a great low-tact masking tape in various widths.

And the other is are you using primer? It helps paint adhere.

Parafilm would have to be trimmed after it has been applied but it is even less agressive than the Tamiya tape.

Steve

[Deckerz]

Yep, iv been painting for years but iv never had to mask when i use acrylics but when i have masked in the past iv been using cellulose paint and masking tape doesn't tear it up. Yep i use primer, do all the prep work and before paint i wipe it down with wet wipes to get any extra dirt off.

[MikeMc]

What caught my eye was flat black and clear..... I would suggest shooting the lighter color first then masking for the flat black and shooting it last...are you using tamiya thinner? that could be the problem with adhesion. I use Tamiya tape and have had no issues

[Deckerz]

What caught my eye was flat black and clear..... I would suggest shooting the lighter color first then masking for the flat black and shooting it last...are you using tamiya thinner? that could be the problem with adhesion. I use Tamiya tape and have had no issues

OK, i don't use tamiya thinner, people say its best for tamiya paint but i get brilliant results from tap water.

[MikeMc]

What caught my eye was flat black and clear..... I would suggest shooting the lighter color first then masking for the flat black and shooting it last...are you using tamiya thinner? that could be the problem with adhesion. I use Tamiya tape and have had no issues

OK, i don't use tamiya thinner, people say its best for tamiya paint but i get brilliant results from tap water.

if it does'nt adhere to the model I don't care what it looks like. Acrylics are a wonderful medium in which to work,that said they also seem to be the toughest to use as each brand seems to have its own quirks. I have sprayed Tamiya bottle acrylics thinned with tamiya thinner and gotten perfect results. Water will slow down the drying process which has a tendency to produce runs and poor adhesion to high spots, while using alcohol works just the opposite, causing uneven color on uneven surfaces. The tamiya thinner which I think is high priced, does seem to work the best every time for airbrushing......for hand brushing take your choice!!! they all seem to work there

[lanesteele240]

I use the tamiya tape because it is not as thick as painters tape. it is thinner than auto body tape which i use when appearance does not matter. if the tape is to thick the paint will build up real thick where the tape joint is. if possible, don't spray towards the tape. if you do, paint just fills in the area at the tape line and makes a radius and a very thick step from the top paint to the bottom paint. this could cause the paint to come off when removing the tape. also tear you tape off at an angle. it helps on 1:1 paint jobs so i do it on my models too.

Edited May 16, 2010 by lanesteele240

[impcon]

I use the tamiya tape because it is not as thick as painters tape. it is thinner than auto body tape which i use when appearance does not matter. if the tape is to thick the paint will build up real thick where the tape joint is. if possible, don't spray towards the tape. if you do, paint just fills in the area at the tape line and makes a radius and a very thick step from the top paint to the bottom paint. this could cause the paint to come off when removing the tape. also tear you tape off at an angle. it helps on 1:1 paint jobs so i do it on my models too.

You might try using Scotch Magic Tape for masking.. It's thin and easy to work with and leaves virtually no raised edge atthe edge of the newly applied paint. I have used it on models and on 1:1 vehicles for masking off decals or even painting on stripes simply because unlike conventional autobody masking tape, it leaves a super clean edge. You can often find the larger sized roles on sale at Staples and other office supply stores and it's a lot more affordable than buying the small rolls with the clear, plastic dispenser. Plus, it is readily available in drug stores and most any dollar stores so there is no waiting for an order to arrive in the mail. Also, it doesn't seem to soften the paint that it applied to causing it to lift the paint when you unmask like cheap masking tape.

[tanarries]

iI have done a bit of masking on both 1:1 and models and one trick i have used with both laquer and enamel is the prestick your tape (ie take the tape and ether stick tit to a clean serface and then use it to mask your seam, part, ect "i usually usre my panst ")

this takes some of the adheasive off the tape and keeps it from pealing the paint.

but like everything in this hobby it just take practice toi get it right.

[Rider]

A method I use and have been successfull with is the following. Lay down the masking tape, and never over a matt surface it'll bleed almost every time even with this technique. Once you have your tape laid down and "rubbed" really well spray the edges of the mask with a coat of clear, not too thick just enough to "seal" the edges. Let it set up for at least 12hrs, then shoot your next colour. Here's a shot of a paint job I did using this method. All the checkers where hand cut, laid down, cleared then shot with black.

http://www.escalemodels.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4490

[charlzrocks]

I hate to mask anything as I always loose some paint somewhere!

[59 Impala]

I just bought some Frogtape (Shurtape)from Sherwin Williams paint store. It's supposed to be the same as Tamiya's tape, but you get a lot more for your money. It is a low tack tape so it shouldn't remove any paint when removed. I haven't used it yet but I will pretty soon. The guys in our club put me on to this tape and they say it's perfect. This tape comes in a plastic container and is the Yellow color. Hope this helps someone out and to save some money. Dan

[Steve Keck]

I just bought some Frogtape (Shurtape)from Sherwin Williams paint store. It's supposed to be the same as Tamiya's tape, but you get a lot more for your money. It is a low tack tape so it shouldn't remove any paint when removed. I haven't used it yet but I will pretty soon. The guys in our club put me on to this tape and they say it's perfect. This tape comes in a plastic container and is the Yellow color. Hope this helps someone out and to save some money. Dan

Be careful. Sherwin Williams here closed out their Shurtape code CP-60 - but no plastic container. It seems to stick best to its self and nothing else.

[59 Impala]

Be careful. Sherwin Williams here closed out their Shurtape code CP-60 - but no plastic container. It seems to stick best to its self and nothing else.

Steve, I'll update when I paint my Studebaker the two tone that I'm gonna use. I sure hope it works good. Thanks for the heads up. Dan

[Deckerz]

Thanks for all your suggestions guys i found the eaisiest way of the sugestions was to mask off, lay down my first colour, then some clear to seal it then mask for the second colour, lighly clear that then take masking off and do a wet coat.