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Posted

Most hobby shops that sell R/C stuff will have it, as it is meant for that crowd and will be stocked with the Paints meant for R/C bodies.

Posted

Thanks for all the help. I don't own an airbrush & saw that Spaz-Stix chrome paint comes in aerosol.Has anybody tried the aerosol?

JR

Yes, it works great. For the best sparkle and good adhesion, I suggest putting it over Alclad black undercoat rather than another gloss black, but I haven't tried the new Spaz Stix black undercoat.

Posted

Ok, this may sound dumb, especially since I have been building for almost 25 years, and have had a couple cheapy airbrushes and I have a can of propellent, but I have never used an airbrush before. What is the proper way to clean the airbrush, especially after using Alclad? I normally use DupliColor rattle cans for my paint, and I can only spray paint outside because I don't have a spraybooth. I need to know because on my latest project, a Ford big rig, I have to rechrome this front bumper I modified for it,

HPIM2118.jpg

plus the fuel tanks to remove the seams where the fuel tank halves meet, and a few other parts as well. I have had Alcad for about 4 years, but have never used it because of being afraid of ruining the airbrush because I didn't clean it right.

By the way, this is the cheapy airbrush I have to use with the canned propellent:

HPIM1754.jpg

Posted
What is the proper way to clean the airbrush, especially after using Alclad?

Lacquer thinner cleans just about everything.

I'm lazy, so I just run lacquer thinner through my Paasche H model before and after every use. Post-use, I fill the cup with lacquer thinner and scrub with a brush to remove any residue. As I spray the LC, I adjust the nozzle in and out.

After several uses, I take it apart and give it a good cleaning. Canned air can be helpful but I don't think it's absolutely necessary.

To my knowledge, I've never had a problem because of left-over paint in the innards of the brush.

By the way, a really useful accessory for an airbrush is a foot switch. Saves time and hassle, at least the way I've got mine set up. You can probably get one at Harbor Freight or Home d'Pot.

Posted

one more question how much does the aerosol can sell for? i may go see if i can find some today.thanks guys

jamie,

I picked up a can of Spaz-Stix today at a hobby shop and the retail price was $12.49. I was able to get a 20% discount and they had a sample of the paint on a rear differential and it looked real good. I was also told to spray it over Krylon black paint.

Posted

Lacquer thinner cleans just about everything.

I'm lazy, so I just run lacquer thinner through my Paasche H model before and after every use. Post-use, I fill the cup with lacquer thinner and scrub with a brush to remove any residue. As I spray the LC, I adjust the nozzle in and out.

After several uses, I take it apart and give it a good cleaning. Canned air can be helpful but I don't think it's absolutely necessary.

To my knowledge, I've never had a problem because of left-over paint in the innards of the brush.

By the way, a really useful accessory for an airbrush is a foot switch. Saves time and hassle, at least the way I've got mine set up. You can probably get one at Harbor Freight or Home d'Pot.

Thanks, Tom. You said the lacquer thinner cleans "just about" everything, The only paints I use regularly is Tamiya, Model Master, regular Testors (very little), and sometimes Polyscale acrylics, would any other these NOT be cleaned by the lacquer thinner. Also, what is the foot switch for? I'm just wondering, because as I said I don't have a permenant area inside to spray, I have to spray paint outside, and I only have canned propellant for it. I've been wanting to use an airbrush more, and with my current project I have to learn because of all the Alclad I have to spray on it. Right now, I need all the advice I can get! :D

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