charlie8575 Posted June 21, 2010 Share Posted June 21, 2010 But Mousie, thou art no thy lane, In proving foresight may be vain: The best laid schemes o' mice an' men Gang aft agley, - Sir Robert Burns, To a Mouse And, as with the little mouse, my plans to finish the Goat prior to the end of the build didn't go quite as originally envisioned. I took advantage of today's very late sunset (almost 9:00) and low humidity and squirted on several very light mist coats of paint to fix some sand-through I experienced with 4000-grit sanding sheets. These are some pictures prior to the touch-up. The chassis had proved rather fragile, and is now re-assembled with superglue, as that seemed to be the only thing I could get everything to hold together with. The red-line decals proved so troublesome, I decided to go with black-walls, and I think they look pretty good. They'd look better if the tire companies wouldn't try to bankrupt the model manufacturers on royalties. These are some pictures shot about 7:10 P.M., after misting on several very light coats of paint from the can. I did these in super light coats, with one medium-light coat to finish up and cover the sand-through. It's still out back drying, and I think it looks pretty good. I ended up putting an almost-invisible coat of primer on the hood to touch it up. (Note: while typing this, some portion of soft/hardware decided not to cooperate. These pictures will come in later.) I may have to re-do the interior. I'm just not happy with how it came out; way too glossy. I might also try a more satin-finish paint, which is too bad, because the Chrysler Engine Blue is very close to the blue Morrokide Pontiac used. It was suggested that I might have been a bit close with the airbrush. I'll try doing that differently, as well. Charlie Larkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 It's nice to see one of these getting done. I have one in the box that wants to be the '67 Tempest Le Mans I had. Now, Charlie, if you wouldn't be reading about taxes while you build you might get it done ... (I know, I should talk...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie8575 Posted June 22, 2010 Author Share Posted June 22, 2010 Actually, Mike, that was at my cousin's house (he's a manager and senior tax preparer for H&R Block,) so I borrowed his desk. I was over watching a movie and brought the Goat along to do the wet-sanding while I was waiting for his girlfriend to show up. I ended up blowing one more coat of paint on, as the finish on the body was still a bit rough, but that smoothed it right out. I'll just clear it and call it done. Maybe a LIGHT pass with 12 000-grit sandpaper to make sure, first. Pictures will come once the new-fangled electronic junk decides to play nice with each other. Cripes, I wish I could develop color film myself.... Charlie Larkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie8575 Posted June 22, 2010 Author Share Posted June 22, 2010 Now that the computer and con-sarned digital camera aren't fighting (and people ask me why I still insist on film for 99% of my photography...)the previous-promised pictures. I might have to give one more pass on the hood to deepen it a little. I'll see in the morning with daylight. Mike...thought occurred to me with that '67 you want to do. You might be smart to use the MPC '67 GTO body and interior tub as a base and mate it up with the Revell running gear. Having been around the Buicks a lot, I can tell you that there are a lot of subtle differences between the 1966 and '67 A-bodies, and the '67 shell might be the better starting point. From what I remember, the shell, except for the core support (radiator wall) is pretty good, and you could actually make it really nice using the under-hood details from the '66. Charlie Larkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Space Cowboy Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 Hey Charlie looking great. I like the color and just keep those pics coming.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie8575 Posted June 22, 2010 Author Share Posted June 22, 2010 Coming from you, Bruce, high praise indeed considering the marvels you create. I just blew one more coat of paint on the hood. It was about a shade off, probably because of the re-priming I had to do. Now, it looks about right. The heated can of spray paint evacuates very nicely and leaves a nice, fine spray pattern. For those of you that don't do it....why? You'll get all the paint you can out of the can and it looks better. Within the next 24 hours, I'll be re-doing the interior, I hope. I just need to find someplace I can put the tank for the time being. Charlie Larkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 Mike...thought occurred to me with that '67 you want to do. You might be smart to use the MPC '67 GTO body and interior tub as a base and mate it up with the Revell running gear. Having been around the Buicks a lot, I can tell you that there are a lot of subtle differences between the 1966 and '67 A-bodies, and the '67 shell might be the better starting point. From what I remember, the shell, except for the core support (radiator wall) is pretty good, and you could actually make it really nice using the under-hood details from the '66. Charlie Larkin I actually have both kits. I came on the MPC '67 after already buying the '66 Revell in anticipation. I WAS still planning to use the '66 just because I think it's such a better kit. The body is a class above as the MPC looks crude and not well molded. There's a misaligned mold seam right across the A pillars. The chassis detail looks like it was molded in bubble gum and uses metal axles. They are like a 60's kit (MPC) compared to one 20 years newer. Still, there is some validity to what you're suggestion. I went and did another search on the differences between years and found more info. Now I SEE it in these 2 bodies and may be no turning back . use the MPC '67 body .. possibly even on the '66 Revell chassis. Of course, my work has just doubled!!! .. as usual.. why I never get anything done! The big difference is in the rear. The rear taillight panel on the 66 is straight across on the top edge while the 67 flares up at the sides. The Rear of the fenders and trunk are also shaped differently. So, by all rights, I SHOULD be using the MPC '67. Maybe just use some details off the Revell would be the best plan. I had only one photo of the car and it's only the side of the front end in the background. I hated that car from the day I got it used from a dealer. They saw me coming. The automatic was a defective piece of junk. After about a good half hour on the highway it would start acting up. What it actually did has been erased from my mind because it was the worst automotive experience I ever had. Was something like going in and out of gear. I was in college and poor, but the local Chevy dealer had the trans in apart a couple times and finally claimed it had been fixed. I picked it up for a wedding trip back to New York (from Indiana) and halfway across Ohio on the trip back the trans started smoking. The transmission was devoid of any fluid! At least the original problem never surfaced. I then sold it immediately for a song and dance. The guy called me and told of the original transmission problem occurring on his way home and said he through in a junkyard standard trans. BEST thing that ever happened to that car. He got a bargain as the 326 was the best engine I ever had in any car. It never lost a drop of oil and ran like a top. This doesn't address the night two of us spent in the college golf cart show replacing the rear end. Sorry I got wound up.. that car brings out the worst in me just thinking about it. Last American car I ever owned. Anyway, yours is looking good, but you need to find the focus button on that cam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie8575 Posted June 23, 2010 Author Share Posted June 23, 2010 Well, one quick update. I may end up shooting a coat of Dullcote over the interior to tame the shine. I'll see how this coat of paint dries. I painted the carpet with Testors Flat Sea Blue, which is a nice match for the GM blue carpets of the time. I think it'll also help darken/tone-down the interior shine once assembled. I dry-brushed the door handles and window cranks with Chrome Silver. I'm pleased with how well they came out. Charlie Larkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie8575 Posted June 25, 2010 Author Share Posted June 25, 2010 (edited) Tonight, I finished the interior. I was rather surprised Revell didn't supply seatbelts. Having neither the money for aftermarket ones or spare parts I can put my hands on conveniently, we'll have to do without. The GTO should have five total with the bucket seats. Putting that decal/clear lens sandwich together was one of the more frustrating things I've done in recent memory. Contrary to most, I actually like molded-in detail. Partially because it'll last longer than printed items, and partially because I detest decals. I also dry-brushed the scripts and tried the rear window garnish. I'm going to go with the Micro-Mask adhevsive/foil method for the window and other trim. I was quite pleased with how the dry-brushed scripts came out. I used to be really good at that, and this is the first time I've done it in a very long time. Here are a couple of interior shots. This is an exterior shot of a mock-up, with a partial interior installed, taken outside under a tree so as not to wash out the color too badly (very sunny day today.) Charlie Larkin Edited June 25, 2010 by charlie8575 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59 Impala Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 Nice Goat Charlie. I like the color. You did a great job on this build. I hope you post more pics of your builds. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie8575 Posted July 27, 2010 Author Share Posted July 27, 2010 Well, a couple of weeks ago, I got around to foiling. I used the Micro-Scale adhesive on kitchen foil. Overall, I'm quite pleased with it, and recommend anyone interested to try it. This is my first attempt at foiling, so don't be too mean. I do think this stuff might be a bit thick for more delicate moldings. I'm going to try BMF again. If you're wondering, my dad's normal digital camera vanished, so I had to use the webcam I have to take the pictures. Ignore the ugly guy. Charlie Larkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie8575 Posted July 27, 2010 Author Share Posted July 27, 2010 Okay...now that I found the camera. Here are slightly better pictures: What a difference a camera and decent lighting makes. Charlie Larkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie8575 Posted December 1, 2010 Author Share Posted December 1, 2010 Having been sidelined the last couple of days with this rather nasty little cold, and as result, not able to be of good mind enough to actually do school-work, I decided to build and get some of that caught up. I glued the windows into the GTO, using plain old Elmer's Glue-All. The lenses for the headlights have been secured, and I painted the turn-signal lenses amber, as for some reason, I remember them being amber. In any event, amber paint for lenses was an auto parts store staple at the time, so it's still within prototypical reason to do it that way. I decaled the tires with the redlines; I noticed those decals, even after setting solution, really don't like to snuggle down. Oh well, hopefully they'll stay on and even out with time. I also glued some homemade license plates onto the bumpers. These are 1966 Massachusetts issue. I used liceneplates.tv blanks and Open Office.org's Draw to resize the plates to 1/25. With some degree of luck, I'll have this one done within the next week or two, as it's getting very close now. Enjoy. Charlie Larkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 GREEN plates! I haven't seen those in a long time, but I was living in Connecticut at that time. Were those after the maroon ones? I loved those. It's all looking good ... I am giddy over that exterior/interior color combo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie8575 Posted December 2, 2010 Author Share Posted December 2, 2010 (edited) Mike, the maroon plates were 1964-'65. Green was the last year of the issued every year or two plates. In 1967, they issued the white with blue lettering that was used until 1973 or so, before phasing in the original red and white plate, as opposed to the ugly thing they have now. I have a few more pictures. The grille assembly categorically refuses to fit properly, so I've simply done the best I can with it. It appears to be slightly warped, and as we know, straightening plated parts is not advised. I also wish Revell had simply made the side-view mirror in one piece. While the kit part is gorgeous, I'd gladly give up a small amount of detail for less fiddly-poke. It started to get to the point where this build was not fun anymore for tonight, so I stopped. Here are some additional progress photos. Charlie Larkin Edited December 2, 2010 by charlie8575 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie8575 Posted December 2, 2010 Author Share Posted December 2, 2010 The hinges have been glued to the hood. The rear window wouldn't stay in until I ran a bead of tube cement down the intersection of it and the package-shelf. It's attached to the interior tub now, but is at the right angle. The chassis fits so tightly in the body, that glue isn't necessary. There's really nowhere to glue it, anyway. The hoses and battery are now in-place. About ten minutes ago, I attached the door handles and wipers. This model is now done. See under-glass. Charlie Larkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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