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Posted

heres somthing the guys here online would ask me from time to time to do, had a little time today ,so i shot some photos,the round brass tube i use is stock #1251,same that i use for my hinges,and can be got at the hobby store,the putty i use is evercoat polyester glazing putty,and can be got at automotive paint stores,and maybe some parts stores,,everything else is just hoddy stuff i think most of us already have.

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frist you need to decide where you want your antennas,draw and cut a shape like this in the plastic,i like to stagger them,one higher than the other.

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i also like to thin the back side of the model where the antennas will go,makes it easyer to cut the plastic from the outside of the car,be careful not to thin to much.

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next mark the tube where you need to cut it,and cut at an angle.

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place the two tubes in the slots you have cut.

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and glue from back side.

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next will need to mold the tubes in ,i use this putty, you can also use CA glue but the putty sands a lot nicer.

this what it looks like puttyed up.i like to put small brass wire in the holes so they dont filled full of putty,pull out when done puttying.

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molded ,sanded and shaped.

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primered , sand and paint.

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there, its that easy, if anyone still has Q's just ask, ill try to help you out. good luck.

Posted

Awesome tip! Done this a few times but forgot about it till you mentioned it.

I've done this on several builds but use the aluminum tubing for it. I find it a bit easier to work with because it is softer, so I don't tend to file or sand away more plastic than metal. Just my thoughts.

BTW, I have also used this type of process for frenching lights, custom scoops & vents, and exhaust cutouts.

Posted

Custom can be many things, but don’t Frenched antennas usually just have an opening, not bumps or fairings that disrupt the flow of the body design? The tutorial looks good, but I think if they were flush, only having the “exit†holes in the body, it would look more accurate to most real jobs, at least the ones I have seen. Thanks for sharing.

Posted

I agree with Scale-master....The fairings/antenna mounting surfaces usually tend to be a bit further down in the holes on typical frenched applications.....[at least the one's I have seen as well.]

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Cool tutorial to help get things started though....

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Custom can be many things, but don't Frenched antennas usually just have an opening, not bumps or fairings that disrupt the flow of the body design? The tutorial looks good, but I think if they were flush, only having the "exit" holes in the body, it would look more accurate to most real jobs, at least the ones I have seen. Thanks for sharing.

Look up Bill Hines, he did kind of a tear drop to his frenched atennas back in the 50s

  • 10 years later...
Posted

Hey guys I put up this how too many years ago, I’m just wondering if anyone took a try at it ?? If you have post up a pic , I’d love to see it, thanks ! 

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