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Posted

Gentlemen- I will be picking some of this gear up online as my local hobby store doesn't stock it. The problem I am having is that there are far too many options and I don't know where to begin.

For a typical 1950- 1970 muscle car what do I need for the trim? I'm thinking it's bright chrome but am loath to buy sight unseen.

Thanks for the help.

Posted

Injun Ed say............... Ultra Bright chrome no good , pay big wampum for junk ! Pay big wampum for regular chrome , work good......... Ed Shaver

Posted

Ultra brite BMF looks better, but the durned stuff just won't stick! You made the right choice, grasshopper.... buy regular BMF B)

Posted

Did BMF get their issues with the glue worked out so it doen't come out bumpy looking? The last BMF I bought was terrible! I threw it away after only using maybe a half inch!

I now have two sheets of Model Master Ultra Thin.But it is harder than heck to get it off the backing in one piece!angry.gif

Posted

Did BMF get their issues with the glue worked out so it doen't come out bumpy looking? The last BMF I bought was terrible! I threw it away after only using maybe a half inch!

I now have two sheets of Model Master Ultra Thin.But it is harder than heck to get it off the backing in one piece!angry.gif

Yup the new and improved IS!!!!!!!Just finished using both Ultra and Regular chrome on my '47 aerosedan build.cool.gif

You can see the difference, I only used the ultra on straight flat surfaces....and it stuckblink.gifblink.gif

to remove foil from the backing use little tabs of tape...Alex Kustov uses that trick and it workswink.gifwink.gif

Posted

Yup the new and improved IS!!!!!!!Just finished using both Ultra and Regular chrome on my '47 aerosedan build.cool.gif

You can see the difference, I only used the ultra on straight flat surfaces....and it stuckblink.gifblink.gif

to remove foil from the backing use little tabs of tape...Alex Kustov uses that trick and it workswink.gifwink.gif

Thanks Mikey! I'll give it a try!cool.gif

Posted

The Ultra is more difficult to work with, but I do like the difference when the job is done. I use Ultra for chrome and regular for stainless. I can get the Ultra on and get it to look, but be prepared to discard three pieces for every piece that you get to look good. Unless you're into hassles and frustration, go with what the others have said.

Posted

I still use the "regular" chrome; I tried the "Ultra" and wasn't happy with it...it didn't stick well, and had a slight pattern of adhesive that showed through.

When BMF was going through the period of foil that cracked and the adhesive became weak, I couldn't use nearly a full sheet before it was toast.

When BMF came out with the first "new and improved" it was a nightmare. I could not trim it without tearing, using new blades. When applied, the adhesive made it look like it had orange peel...even on a perfectly smooth surface. It was coated, wouldn't buff out like it should. It made me learn to use kitchen foil with the Microscale foil adhesive. It works well enough, but I still would prefer regular "old" BMF.

When they reformulated it again, I heard good things. I got a fresh sheet this spring. So far, so good.

  • 2 years later...
Posted

Which is the best Bare Metal Foil to use? I know this maybe a matter of preference.

Improved Chrome or Ultra Bright Chrome?

I have heard some say, that the Ultra is thicker and doesn't adhere as well.

Any thoughts?

Posted

Regular BMF. The Ultra is thicker, and the adhesive not as good. At least that is my experience.

Posted

Yep. Improved Chrome.

What he said .... the ultra chrome is a lot thicker and really doesn't want to conform to curves of any kind.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Has anybody else been having nothing but problems with this stuff? with a brand new blade in my x-acto knife I go to cut a small piece and it wont cut though it just drags a big clump of the foil up and when I finally get a piece off and apply it to the body it wont stick to save its life. ive tried applying it on a cleared and uncleared body and I get the same results. I thought that I got a defective sheet and went to my hobby shop and asked for a refund, as I expected they wont take it back because I opened the package. I had no choice other than to buy a new sheet and when I get it home the same things happening. I'm 14, I don't have a job other than yard work for neighbors and chores around the house so im barely making enough to continue this hobby so blowing 16 bucks on junk unusable bare metal foil is a huge blow to my funds and I cant continue to build if I cant foil the models so im pretty angry mostly over the money part of it but is there anything I can do to make this stuff usable?

Jason

Posted

I tried it but I really don't care for it. Worked ok but when I applied it it just seemed to "bright". I guess why they call it ultra bright. Didn't look bad in the envelope but did not care for it on my model.

Posted

Jason, there may be a problem with that lot of product, take it back to the store you bought it. You might even want to send an e-mail to BMF and tell them this story, they might replace it themselves. Just what I would do.

Posted

Try using a medical blade. Available from Squadron or your local pharmacy. I had trouble with the sharpest of x-acto blades, but when I switched to the medical blade, it worked wonders and sliced through with no snags. I've also found that keeping the foil sheet in the fridge helps with the foil curling when you cut it and keeps it fresh and sticky. Might be no truth to that, but give it a shot. Also, I like to spend some time and lightly sand the trim I will be foiling with 3200 grit to get any inperfections out of the surface and promote adhesion. Also, BMF is available all over Ebay for 7-8 dollars shipped. Try to use a merchant that seems to sell a lot of the stuff to increase your chances of getting a fresher sheet.

Posted

Ultra rite is not very good. It is too thick. Best to stick with the regular stuff.

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