Any problems using acrylic and lacquer on regular primer?

[Mr. Show]

I recall reading somewhere that certain combinations will lead to very bad things. Will that happen to me using regular automotive primer then covering with either acrylic or spray lacquer?

Also, is there anything lacquer clear can't be used on?

Thanks.

[Mr. Show]

Thanks for the help. I was wondering why the frame I primed 4 days ago felt a little wet in spots and was rubbing off. Then there's the smaller pieces I primed and hit with acrylic that now have the original color of the plastic showing through both layers. I just hope I can save them.

I'm pretty far from Omaha and Bellevue, and I just started this hobby a few days ago, so probably not. Plus I've already bought too many kits and don't want to think what I'd do in that environment.

[Greg Cullinan]

James,forgive my highjack

Hey Mark,(or anyone willing to steer me in the right direction)

I have a few questions,if you could help I appreciate it.

I hate to bother you with what is probably repetitive questions,

I googled,visited each manufacturers website with no insight.

1. Is Dupli-color primer lacquer based? ( this has been the only primer I've used and have a liking for it)

2. House of Kolors airbrush,ready to spray bottles, lacquer or enamel? Or urethane?

I made myself a small cheatsheet due to my mixing up the facts.

So far I come up with(from your reply )..

enamel over lacquer-ok

lacquer over lacquer-ok

I honestly have 10 different brands/types of paint including Creatix water based

and unfortunately don't know what to do with them .. Thanks again

Multifaceted questions? I'll take a crack at them!

If the automotive primer in question is lacquer based, then yes indeed you can use any painr over it. If it's enamel I wouldn't recommend any lacquer paint on top, even if it's a hobby lacquer, just to be safe.

Now, if you use a non hobby lacquer or enamel primer, you need a barrier to protect the plastic from it, as automotive primer & paint, be they lacquer or enamel are hooter than hobby paints.

Get a bottle of Pledge With Future Shine acrylic floor polish & either brush it on, or airbrush it over the bare platic for a barrier. Then you can proceed with any lacquer or enamel primer on your model. I use Future as a barrier when I use Duplicolor lacquer primer, with no problems. If the Future runs or dags, you can remove it with ammonia or Windex, or let dry & sand. If you brush it on, don't be concerned with the brush marks, as Future is self leveling, & the strokes will go away as it dries.

The only lacquer clear I know of that's safe for enamels is Testors Gloiss Cote or Testors Model Master Gloss Clear Lacquer. I personally use Krylon Crystal Clear acrylic spray for most clear coats. If you try that, be sure to get the one sold at Michaels, Hobby Lobby & other art supply stores, & not the one in Wal Mart's hardware dept or at hardware stores. Different SKU number & formula, & much hotter than the other Crystal Clear I mentioned.

Finally I see you're in Nebraska. If you;re near Omaha are you going to the Mid America Nats this Saturday?

Here's a link foir more info:

http://www.modelcars...=1

[Greg Cullinan]

Mark,

Thanks for the info and clarity.

[Mr. Show]

Man, I barely have space enough for my little worktable, let alone 100+ kits! Please say you're building that Joker Goon Car soon - that thing was awesome.

About Duplicolor primer: is there a way to tell if it's lacquer? I assume the cans that don't mention it one way or another are enamel? Does anybody know anything about the Rustoleum Universal series? The can says it can be used on anything.

Also picked up some Pledge with future yesterday as suggested. There was one for wood and one for vinyl/tile floors. I got the latter and hope it's the right one.

Edited October 5, 2010 by Mr. Show

[Mr. Show]

I finally bit the bullet and bought an airbrush. It's a basic one (but looks much higher quality than the thin plastic ones by Testor's) - Badger 250 - but with winter coming I knew I wouldn't be able to paint with cans since I can only use those outside.

So for my next question, is a there a comprehensive beginner's guide for airbrushing? Google isn't being much help as I've only found moderate to advanced tutorials which are beyond my scope currently. Thinning for testor's enamel is 1:1, correct?

Thanks for any help. Can't wait to get started with this.

Edited October 5, 2010 by Mr. Show

[bobbyj]

Mr. show I have ALWAYS used lacquer paint and NEVER have used future on ANYTHING. I have always used dupli-color or plasti kote and never had a problem eating any of the plastic or making it soft. you do have to sand the whole body or at liest scuff it with a scuff pad of some sort. I use the grey ones sold at auto body supply stores.you also have to wash the car before you paint. you also have to spray at liest three coats remember lacquer shrinks when it drys so dont get to worried if it looks like your loosing detail wait for it to dry over night. 1:1 is good for any enamel. auto paint out of an airbrush is a little different. I use a lot of house on kolours and Kandys, and lacquers and acrylics they are a little thinner then enamels and should be mixt 2:1 for good atomization and color cover. back to the canned lacquers they are great they r all i use as far as primmer and clears (although i spray the clear into an airbrush jar) I have found that duplicolor is ok plasti kote is they way to go if you know where to get it esp. the clear it drys smoother then the duplicolor. you can spray plasti coat over duplicolor but not duplicolor over plastikote. confused yet? good. lol enamel over lacquer ok lacquer over lacquer better lacquer over enamel? break out the easy off and bondo you WILL have pits int the car if you catch it soon enough. so that would be a no go! anything else I am forgetting?

lacquer clears dont dry smooth!!!! because again lacquer shrinks. so you have to polish it. some people use a polishing kit. I dont like them they are a pain in the neck. I use a good clean soft cotton rag old t-shirts work best on the tip of my finger and regular car wax NON-SYLICONE. the 2001 something another works best. sorry cant remember what it is..... I know that it is in a BRIGHT NEON GREEN bottle that says 2001 real big on the front.really you can use any polish to do this but you dont want a "polish" you want more of a "buffing compound" but not to "gritty". polishing a car this way takes about 12 hrs. to do the whole car. but it goes fast sitting in front of the TV. stay off the corners they get rubbed even though you try no to.

sorry its so long. lol I just like talking about paint.lol I never understood the whole "future" thing some people swear by it. idk maybe its me. if there is anything i mist and/or any questions about my process let me know.

Bobbyj

[Mr. Show]

Can future be sanded? I brushed it onto a body, being as smooth as possible and only going one direction, but after it dried I saw raised ridges and a lot of what looks like scratches on the body. Would a second coat fill those in? It's kind of thick and I'm worried about losing detail.

Edited October 9, 2010 by Mr. Show

[charlie8575]

Can future be sanded? I brushed it onto a body, being as smooth as possible and only going one direction, but after it dried I saw raised ridges and a lot of what looks like scratches on the body. Would a second coat fill those in? It's kind of thick and I'm worried about losing detail.

I don't think it'll sand out from what's been said, but Windex will strip it right off.

Charlie Larkin