paint removal

[Marc @ MPC Motorsports]

It does work better when it is room temperature. Also, it tends to lose its effectiveness after awhile. For $5 a bottle, I'll strip a few models, pour it down the drain, and get a fresh bottle.

[Radio Joe]

It does work better when it is room temperature. Also, it tends to lose its effectiveness after awhile. For $5 a bottle, I'll strip a few models, pour it down the drain, and get a fresh bottle.

I did think maybe it died so I did buy a brand new bottle and tried again.... Same result.

Im gonna bring the stuff in the house and see if it improves.

[jbwelda]

it really does affect different paints different ways. maybe you just got some stubborn paint? ive noticed it will strip some paint starting right away but other paint even after a couple of days nothing much happens...but then it finally starts budging.

it would probably work better in warmer temps too but thats just a guess.

i definately would not recommend dumping it down the drain though...and especially not if youre on a septic system. just sayin.

[vizio93]

i definately would not recommend dumping it down the drain though...and especially not if youre on a septic system. just sayin.

How would you dispose of it ?

[Chuck Most]

It does work better at room temp, but it works better still when it's warm. In the summer, I usually set it out on my deck in the sun, so it works its magic quicker. In the winter? Well, I'm just a bit more patient!

I've noticed that most Testors paints let go pretty easily after a bath in the purple pond, ditto most automotive type paints. Some of the Krylon stuff doesn't like to come off with PP, but that's been pretty rare in my experience.

The way I dispose of mine may be a bit crude, but my process is the following- I pour it into a garbage can full of old newspapers, and when it dries, I use the newspapers (with the dried Purple Power and paint residue soaked it) to start fires in my furnace. Probably not the most PC way to do it, but it works, and it's a far piece better than just pouring it into the nearest storm drain and/or your idiot neighbor's swimming pool.

Edited December 18, 2009 by Chuck Most

[vizio93]

The way I dispose of mine may be a bit crude, but my process is the following- I pour it into a garbage can full of old newspapers, and when it dries, I use the newspapers (with the dried Purple Power and paint residue soaked it) to start fires in my furnace. Probably not the most PC way to do it, but it works, and it's a far piece better than just pouring it into the nearest storm drain and/or your idiot neighbor's swimming pool.

Oh, well I guess it is better than down your drain, and as for the swimming pool, your the one who has been puttin' that stuff in my pool !!! :lol: :lol:

Edited December 18, 2009 by vizio93

[Chuck Most]

Oh, well I guess it is better than down your drain, and as for the swimming pool, your the one who has been puttin' that stuff in my pool !!! :lol: :lol:

Nope, not I! It would be one hell of a drive for me just to dump a couple of gallons of Purple Power into YOUR pool!

[vizio93]

Nope, not I! It would be one hell of a drive for me just to dump a couple of gallons of Purple Power into YOUR pool!

:lol: I guess your story holds up, partly because you live that far away, and partly because I don't have a pool :lol:

[Marc @ MPC Motorsports]

I did think maybe it died so I did buy a brand new bottle and tried again.... Same result.

Im gonna bring the stuff in the house and see if it improves.

Don't know where you live, Joe, but if it is cold it will work much better inside where it is warmer. If that does not work, you will need to try one of the other proven paint removal methods like Easy Off Oven Cleaner, Testors/Polly S Easy Lift Off, or 91% isopropol alcohol. The purple stuff does not work on lacquer or Tamiya and Testors acrylics.

[Radio Joe]

Don't know where you live, Joe, but if it is cold it will work much better inside where it is warmer. If that does not work, you will need to try one of the other proven paint removal methods like Easy Off Oven Cleaner, Testors/Polly S Easy Lift Off, or 91% isopropol alcohol. The purple stuff does not work on lacquer or Tamiya and Testors acrylics.

Sorry I gotta actually put some info into my account- I live in Laurens, SC

It just seemed odd because I took apart a truck and dunked the cab and it ate the paint within 2 days, but the fenders and bed have taken over 1 week in new PP. So I will bring it in and hopefully that will fix it.

I did find that the clear rustoleum spray doesnt come off in the PP..... Oops.

[jbwelda]

>How would you dispose of it ?

yeah thats the problem. so far i have been reusing it almost ad infinitem and it doesnt seem to wear out. so ive not had to dispose of any major amounts. i just know that by looking at what it will do to your hand if you dont wear gloves, you probably dont want that in your water supply.

[CustomFerrari]

i was looking around the house for something to remove the p[paint from my brush with and i couldn't find anything then i saw this bottle of simple green and i remembered my mom using it to remove paint form one of my bros models so i took it to the paintbrush and it was very successful returning it to original color when i used it was black when i first got it, it was chestnut but it works well on cars and brushes and household stains so just a suggestion but keep it around the house

[trey]

im a newb to this i did my first paint job and it wasnt bad but im not satisfied can anyone tell me a safe way to remove this paint?

[Longbox55]

What kind of paint did you use? Enamal? Laquer? Different finishes use different methods of removal, and you'll get different answers from just about everybody. Oven cleaner, DOT3 brake fluid, Superclean/Purple Power, and ELO are the common ones used by most of us for enemals, use 91% rubbing alcohol for laquers. I personally use Superclean, as it is not as toxic as some of the others, plus I keep it on hand for its intended purpose as a floor degreaser. Strips chrome off very well, too. just don't use it to strip aluminum or die cast, it's very corrosive to aluminum.

[CustomFerrari]

im a newb to this i did my first paint job and it wasnt bad but im not satisfied can anyone tell me a safe way to remove this paint?

Well when i first began i used Enamel. If that's the case your best bet in my opinion would be to try 'Simple Green' the all purpose household cleaner. The paint wont come off right away give a few hours to a day and it should get most of the paint off.

[Longbox55]

I forgot to mention Simple Green. Yes, it is very effective at removing enamals, but it does take longer than Superclean and Purple Power. It isn't as toxic, though. In fact, Simple Green was originally invented for cleaning coffee machines. It will strip chrome off plastic parts, too, but again, not as fast as the other products, and it does leave a residue.

[trey]

I forgot to mention Simple Green. Yes, it is very effective at removing enamals, but it does take longer than Superclean and Purple Power. It isn't as toxic, though. In fact, Simple Green was originally invented for cleaning coffee machines. It will strip chrome off plastic parts, too, but again, not as fast as the other products, and it does leave a residue.

ok thanks guys

[Ragnar]

I use enamel, lacquer, and acrylic paints, and I use Super Clean to remove all types of paint, and chrome from parts. I buy a lot of old models for parts at Swap Meets and shows. Some of these have had paint on them for 30-40 years and Super Clean has no problem removing that old paint.

CHEERS!

Edited May 20, 2010 by Ragnar

[Brutalform]

I had this Starliner body soaking for over 24 hours now, and the fluid did not do a thing to it. Did not even soften it. The paint appears to be a glossy thick blue, with a lot of streaks in it, brush painted. I bought the kit off ebay real cheap, as the body and hood were painted. I really only wanted the frame for a 64 Galaxie build, and thought, if I can salvage the body, why not? I thought brake fluid would remove all paint?

[charlie8575]

I've never had any luck with brake fluid myself.

I've found I like either oven cleaner, Whestley's Bleche-Wite whitewall cleaner or Super Clean/Purple Power. Just be sure to use gloves especially with the Super Clean or oven cleaner. The Bleche-Wite is a bit weaker, and does take a day or two to work, but is fairly effective.

I've also read here that that Dawn Power Dissolver for dishes is very good for paint removal. Perhaps you can try some of that.

Charlie Larkin

[sobpinstriping]

I have had to leave it set for about two days before then with a rag I rub it out put it back in and repeat, tamiya paint doesnt like to come off as easy as testors so I thought it wasent working but I just tossed it back in and forgot about it and it all came off in time

hoped that helped

cheers

mat

[TurboKitty]

I've had hit or miss luck with DOT3 brake fluid. It works good to get chrome off, and some paint like enamel. For lacquer, 91% isopropyl alcohol works good for me, or Easy Off oven cleaner in the yellow can. Did you sand a few spots down to the bare plastic so the DOT3 can get down under the paint layer? That may be the issue. If nothing else works, try Testors ELO (Easy Lift Off). I've been told it works very well for all kinds of paint, and it's available from the Testors website, $13 (I think) for the large can of it.

[bang bang]

I have used brake fluid exclusively but have never been in that much of a hurry to repeat a screw up.lol Most of the time the part will set in the fluid for days & I then will hose it off & wash it with dawn dish liquid. then I'm ready to go again.

[highway]

I also use brake fluid for paint stripping, and I also do not get in a hurry. I usually throw my stuff in Lake Brake, and most of the time, forget about it. By the time I finally remember the tabled project, the paint falls of as I lift the body or parts out. That reminds me, after 3 years, that truck cab should be done!

[Brutalform]

Thanks for the helpful replies everyone!!