Scale-Master Posted November 17, 2010 Share Posted November 17, 2010 (edited) I had to put a long term project aside for some paint to cure, (and not being one who can just wait for paint to dry), this kit looked like it would be something that would benefit from some detail painting (which I was in the mood to do) since the engine is molded as part of the main body. I apologize for the diminished quality of the photos as almost all the work is being done while it is dark (outside) and I don’t feel like setting up a proper studio for each wild hair I get to shoot pictures of its progress. Standard body prep for finish paint was done first. I did remove the ejection pin marks from the under side of the hood. On the other side of the hood above where the hood prop boss is located a sink mark had to be filled with a little CA. Here is a shot of the body and engine molding after clean up. It has been primed with Tamiya white fine primer. Next, I sprayed the engine bay with the body color. Edited November 17, 2010 by Scale-Master Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 17, 2010 Share Posted November 17, 2010 I apologize for the diminished quality of the photos as almost all the work is being done while it is dark... Might want to try turning on a light??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted November 17, 2010 Author Share Posted November 17, 2010 Might want to try turning on a light??? Thanks for enlightening me on my lack of illuminating clarity! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 17, 2010 Share Posted November 17, 2010 I mean, I know California is broke... but you guys still get electricity, right??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno Posted November 17, 2010 Share Posted November 17, 2010 Might want to try turning on a light??? Brilliant! What an idea guy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted November 18, 2010 Author Share Posted November 18, 2010 OK Dave, since you asked… Once the red dried (overnight) I went in by hand and painted the black, dark metallic grey, silver, gold and white details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Woodruff Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 Cool stuff Mark! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted November 18, 2010 Author Share Posted November 18, 2010 The chassis is similar to many of Tamiya’s other offerings, much of it molded in one piece in curbside fashion, but with some patient detail painting it can be brought to life relatively easily. I sprayed the body colored parts of the chassis… Then started hand painting the details… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acarnut2 Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 Likewise, I have the same problem trying to detail tight areas like that by brush painting. But I have seen where guys have masked off tight areas with "Silly Putty" and Kaduku or Tamiya tape and have had tremendous success. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted November 19, 2010 Author Share Posted November 19, 2010 Mark, when you hand paint the details are you using Tamiya acrylics or Testors/Model Master enamels? i still seem to be struggling with using Tamiya's acrylics for brush painting of larger areas. it seems to want to "tack" up on me before i've gotten the chance to get it laid down in a smooth coat. with the enamels i don't really have that problem and using a little bit of thinner and fresh paint goes a long way to a nice finish, for some reason though i'm not having the same luck with acrylics. Dave, I prefer the Testors enamels for brush painting, but I do use some Tamiya acrylics. I like the Tamiya transparent colors too. You have to do your painting in only a couple brush passes with the acrylics or, as you noticed, they start to pull the earlier partially dry paint up. When it gets to that point, just let what you have done dry and then go back and put another coat on. You can use the Tamiya X-20A thinner as a reducer, but it gets runny really fast and does not like to stick to smooth surfaces sometimes, so add it sparingly, but it does work well as a retarder. The dark metallic gray on this engine is a mix of Tamiya acrylics, applied in two coats. Acarnut, As for masking, those are good suggestions that work, but I prefer to just hand paint and not mask if I don't have to. There's likely to be clean up either way, so for me it saves time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted November 19, 2010 Author Share Posted November 19, 2010 And now back to the build... I masked off the red and detail painted areas and sprayed the flat black. A little shading, washing and dry brushing were done to provide some depth and hopefully life. Some areas were picked out by freehand brushing with varying degrees of grays to break up the monotony of the black. And the other chassis parts were finished too… The exhaust pipes are plated so the chrome was toned down and tinted a bit. And here it is finished… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Laski Posted November 19, 2010 Share Posted November 19, 2010 Nice touch with the brush, Mark! I'm not surprised, though, given what I have seen before. Thanks for sharing. -Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbwelda Posted November 19, 2010 Share Posted November 19, 2010 man you really brought that chassis to life! too kool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted November 19, 2010 Author Share Posted November 19, 2010 Thanks guys! I use lacquer thinner to cut the silver. I knocks some of the brightness down and it makes it flow better. It also makes it dry faster and harded and it stands up to light clear coating pretty well. But then I am using it for non-chrome finishs so the graying and dulling of the silver under clear works in my favor too. Now back to our show already in progress... The rear wing as cleaned up and the bottom painted first. Once it was dry it was assembled. Temporarily mounting it to the car while the cement sets assures proper fit will not be an issue during final assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted November 20, 2010 Author Share Posted November 20, 2010 It is a huge compliment to hear I helped somebody with a trick, thank you! Now back to the engine… After a final round of washes and drybrushing to accentuate the molded in details, the engine bay was masked off and the underhood surrounding area was shot with a very dark gray. The rubber seal between the two areas was hand painted black. The contrast is not high, but in better light it is enough to differentiate the seal from the panels. I plan to shoot “real†pictures in daylight once it is finished, hopefully it will look better… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corvette.Jeff Posted November 20, 2010 Share Posted November 20, 2010 im lovin this build mark,hopefully ill be able to detail paint like you one day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montelsc Posted November 20, 2010 Share Posted November 20, 2010 looks great coming out really nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted November 20, 2010 Author Share Posted November 20, 2010 Thanks for the kind words... Even about drybrushing Time to mask the underhood area off and shoot the body… I chose TS-49 Bright Red although the instructions call out TS-8 Italian Red. I like the look of this color better and depending on the lighting an argument can be made for both looking correct. Usually I use the airbrush and sometimes supplement the last full coats with the can, but this time I opted to try just shooting from the can. Light coats, let them flash for 5-10 minutes (maybe 15…), shot about six coats. Also did the hood, top of rear wing and front fascia at the same time… (The mirrors were shot red when I did the engine bay by airbrush.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted November 20, 2010 Author Share Posted November 20, 2010 While the paint on the body is drying… The brake rotors can be supplemented with Tamiya PE parts, but my kit does not provide them (there might be a version that comes with the PE parts as I have seen with other Tamiya kits), and there is no engraved detailing on the rotor faces. However, the instructions included drawings of the PE parts so I used that as a guide to create decals for the rotor faces. Standard hand painting, shading and dry-brushing for the calipers/details… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted November 21, 2010 Author Share Posted November 21, 2010 The suspension sub-assemblies go together well, a little time spent detail painting pays off, but I doubt much of it will be seen on the completed model, it is tough to see all the paint work even at this stage…let alone capture it in photos. But it is fun to do nonetheless… Front: Rear: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Eh? Posted November 21, 2010 Share Posted November 21, 2010 Mark, thanks for all the updates on this project. I was just looking at the front and rear suspension sub-assemblies and wondered why you painted the edges of the brake disks red. Excellent work. Your excellent freehand painting of details is something I aspire to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted November 21, 2010 Author Share Posted November 21, 2010 The dash is crisply molded, but the instructions direct to paint a few somewhat tricky details. A good brush and a little patience are the best approach. Same thing for the well molded once piece intake piece on the chrome shot. I painted it in two phases with Testors Black Chrome Trim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 21, 2010 Share Posted November 21, 2010 It's amazing what you can do with paint detailing alone. And of course, a steady hand! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted November 21, 2010 Author Share Posted November 21, 2010 It's amazing what you can do with paint detailing alone. And of course, a steady hand! It takes a lot of coffee to do this too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted November 21, 2010 Author Share Posted November 21, 2010 (edited) Interior bucket/pan, somewhat the same single piece set up needing a few shades of black and gray plus silver to bring up the molded in detail... (The shifter and hand brake are separate parts.) Edited November 21, 2010 by Scale-Master Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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