Decal Solvent?

[RacinRay88]

Hey Everyone. I've ran into some problems in the past with older model kits... i built a 1990 dale earnhardt car but the decals didn't want to stick once applied...they just kind of flaked off. the most recent car im building is a mid 90's F1 car. i applied the goodyear decals to the tires but once they started to dry they just started peeling and flaking off. i was wondering if decal set or decal solvent whatever it is would solve this problem or if anyone had tips on how to stop this madness!!! thank a lot!

[carchub]

With every model I've gone through (all 3 =P) I've had this exact same problem, it makes me so mad, I always end up skipping the decals or using clear-drying white tacky glue to get them to stay. Just sayin I have this problem too, and that I'd also like to know what can fix this.

[935k3]

The best thing to do with decals that will not stick is to use a Q-Tip or paintbrush and apply Future either to the back of the decal or on the area where it is placed. Any excess can be cleaned with a Q-tip soaked in Ammonia or Windex. It's better than white glues because it's thinner. It also helps with the silvering effect when placing decals over flat paints such as seat decals on a race car. For tires I usually mount them on the rim then apply Future with a Q-Tip to the entire sidewall. Then apply the decal then I brush on a coat or two of Poly S Flat clear to seal them.

Edited February 15, 2011 by 935k3

[RacinRay88]

With every model I've gone through (all 3 =P) I've had this exact same problem, it makes me so mad, I always end up skipping the decals or using clear-drying white tacky glue to get them to stay. Just sayin I have this problem too, and that I'd also like to know what can fix this.

Yah! its very aggrivating! my last Earnhardt car i did had the most beautiful smooth glossy paint job with great detail....but the decals wouldnt stick....what good is a nascar model if the stickers wont stick......its just a plain black car then.... Since it is the 10th year since Earnhardt Sr's death i bought 2 new kits both are late 80's early 90's... and im afraid if i dont find a solution im going to be disapointed

[RacinRay88]

The best thing to do with decals that will not stick is to use a Q-Tip or paintbrush and apply Future either to the back of the decal or on the area where it is placed. Any excess can be cleaned with a Q-tip soaked in Ammonia or Windex. It's better than white glues because it's thinner.

what is "future" that sounds like a great idea. the windex wont hurt the paint finish?

[935k3]

what is "future" that sounds like a great idea. the windex wont hurt the paint finish?

The only paint that is affected by ammonia is Tamiya's water based Acrylics in the jar. You can buy Future at any grocery store or Walmart in the isle where household cleaners are. It is now known as "Pledge with a Future Shine" Click this link to learn all it's uses. Future

Edited February 15, 2011 by 935k3

[curt raitz]

Decals can be fussy...especially if they have been around for awhile,

decals need to be stored in a cool, dark and dry place

most will respond well to using a hot damp towel to press them into place

solvents such as Micro Sol, Micro Set, Solvaset, Decal Fit and others will help "suck" the decal down

should test these on a portion of decal sheet ya won't need

The decals from Revell used to be the worst, nothing would get these things to stick!

In the past couple of years they have gotten much better.

Decals overall are getting much better and a lot of aftermarket decals are available i.e. Slixx, IndyCals, Studio27, etc.

A clearcoat can be sprayed o'er them for further protection, opening a discussion about "shiny race cars"

Edited February 16, 2011 by curt raitz

[Mike Kucaba]

The only paint that is affected by ammonia is Tamiya's water based Acrylics in the jar. You can buy Future at any grocery store or Walmart in the isle where household cleaners are. It is now known as "Pledge with a Future Shine" Click this link to learn all it's uses. Future

I've found that ammonia will strip Testor's and most other acrylic paints of the water based type. Also,ammonia is the recommended stripper for Future. It's stated right on the label on the bottle.

[vaughn]

Some of your older model decals actually state,"Do not use Solvent". Why, I do not know. I followed their advise and then after using Solvaset on some others, that did not state that, with great results. I went back and like an idiot applied it to some older decals already on a model that were fine before and the Solvaset wrinkled them. Moral of the story...leave well enough alone. But I have had no problem with Solvaset on decals that says its ok to use a decal set.

[935k3]

I've found that ammonia will strip Testor's and most other acrylic paints of the water based type. Also,ammonia is the recommended stripper for Future. It's stated right on the label on the bottle.

i forgot about those because I don't use them. You are right, basically it will strip any waterbased acrylic. Although it does not attack Floqil's Poly S fast enough and can be used if done lightly and quicky.

[935k3]

Some of your older model decals actually state,"Do not use Solvent". Why, I do not know. I followed their advise and then after using Solvaset on some others, that did not state that, with great results. I went back and like an idiot applied it to some older decals already on a model that were fine before and the Solvaset wrinkled them. Moral of the story...leave well enough alone. But I have had no problem with Solvaset on decals that says its ok to use a decal set.

Solvaset and Microscale's MicroSol are both way to strong for Tamiya's decals. I use a hot damp cloth pressed over decals instead of solvents. It sets decals instantly without wrinkles. Small areas can be done with a hot damp Q-Tip.

[RacinRay88]

ok im building a few old Earnhardt Monte Carlo's.... one is from 1988 the other is the 1981 and 1986 combo kit from 1993.... any tips on applying old decals like that...or better off trying to find aftermarket decals?

[curt raitz]

ok im building a few old Earnhardt Monte Carlo's.... one is from 1988 the other is the 1981 and 1986 combo kit from 1993.... any tips on applying old decals like that...or better off trying to find aftermarket decals?

any after market decal would be better than the kit decal...

[W117monte]

Be careful with microsol.?I just ruined my decals on my Larry Morgan prostock olds with micro sol. It turned them inta a wrinkled mess. They are 18 years old.

[Ddms]

Be careful with microsol.?I just ruined my decals on my Larry Morgan prostock olds with micro sol. It turned them inta a wrinkled mess. They are 18 years old.

I think you're right about Microsol. If you're applying brittle old decals, seems like they should be strengthened before they're applied. Microsol actually softens and weakens the film.

There is some stuff called "Badger MODELflex Liquid Decal Film." It's supposed to be good for sealing DIY decals. According to the Hobbylinc webpage, it also "allows you to save old decals when brushed over an old decal."

I haven't tried it, but Badger is a good brand, and it costs less than $2, not including shipping, of course. The Hobbylinc site is at http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/bad/bad16-803.htm.

[wrecker388]

For my first NASCAR i used Elmer`s glue diluted with water.You take it and just brush it wherever you want your decal,hope it helps.

[Chillyb1]

You can try a couple of things to make old decals useful again. This stuff made by Microscale, makers of Micro Sol and Micro Set: http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-12&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=11

And similarly, shoot a coat of clear over the decals while still on the decal sheet. When dry, apply decals as usual.