Detailing before or after clear coat?

[rickd13]

Hi guys. Just started to get into car models again and I was wondering, when should I paint the door handles, side lights, and window trims. Before or after clear coats? I'm using Dupli-Color clear coat over a lacquer body paint. For detailing the trim, I will be using a silver enamel. What do you do if you get some of the detail paint on the body of the car? Is there a way to fix it?

[Drgon63]

NOOOOOO Paint on trim any more... BARE METAL FOIL.. try it you will love it.... eliminates paint on finished project...

[Harry P.]

I agree. Don't paint chrome trim with silver paint, use foil instead. You'll get a much more realistic effect. After all, silver paint doesn't look like chrome trim, it looks like silver paint.

[rickd13]

What do you do if the detail you are trying to highlight isn't chrome? Or you are trying to highlight tiny words like 'cuda by the tail light or the tiny writing on the side of the air scoop. What about the fender vents on the 'cuda where the inside of the vents are supposed to be black and the outside is silver? Can you bare metal foil those also? What about key holes or anything else that should be chrome looking? Thanks guys.

Edited March 5, 2011 by rickd13

[Harry P.]

You can foil pretty small emblems and scripts. All you need are a sharp knife, a magnifier and a steady hand. Sometimes, though, it is easier to use silver paint on small items like door locks and small scripts and emblems... they're so small that silver paint will give you a passable "chrome" effect.

Some people will take a piece of foil and cover the scripts before they paint the model. Then after painting, they remove the paint from the high spots of the script detail by using a polishing kit to reveal the foil.

[rickd13]

You can foil pretty small emblems and scripts. All you need are a sharp knife, a magnifier and a steady hand. Sometimes, though, it is easier to use silver paint on small items like door locks and small scripts and emblems... they're so small that silver paint will give you a passable "chrome" effect.

Some people will take a piece of foil and cover the scripts before they paint the model. Then after painting, they remove the paint from the high spots of the script detail by using a polishing kit to reveal the foil.

If I do use the silver paint on, for example, a door lock, should I do it after the clear coats? What do you do if a little paint gets of the mark? Can it be rubbed out?

[MikeMc]

or build customs....you sand off all the extra junk ...But BMF will bring you to a better level

[MikeMc]

If I do use the silver paint on, for example, a door lock, should I do it after the clear coats? What do you do if a little paint gets of the mark? Can it be rubbed out?

If you want great locks, sand off the uglies, Paint, clear and polish that beauty...then a drop of future or clear acrylic..drop on a "PE" door lock..like on this 47...

sanded off the handles and the solenoids are wired to the locks.....

with

without....

Edited March 5, 2011 by Stasch

[Harry P.]

If I do use the silver paint on, for example, a door lock, should I do it after the clear coats? What do you do if a little paint gets of the mark? Can it be rubbed out?

If you use silver paint to detail locks and badges and things like that, and you mess up and get a little silver where it shouldn't be, just use a bit of body color and a small brush to paint over any excess silver. Then do your clear coat after all the emblems and little silver details are finished. That's how I do it, anyway... I'm sure other people have different techniques.

[pharr7226]

If you use silver paint to detail locks and badges and things like that, and you mess up and get a little silver where it shouldn't be, just use a bit of body color and a small brush to paint over any excess silver. Then do your clear coat after all the emblems and little silver details are finished. That's how I do it, anyway... I'm sure other people have different techniques.

Hmmmm... So simple and effective. I love this place. I learn something almost everyday.

[Wolf75]

I find the metallic silver sharpies work pretty good in detailing small things like the emblems.

[Guest]

If I do use the silver paint on, for example, a door lock, should I do it after the clear coats? What do you do if a little paint gets of the mark? Can it be rubbed out?

When I do use silver paint, I use Testors Chrome silver, and use it after clear coats. Silver has a tendency to not dry well, and it is possible the paint could run into the clear. But I only use it on door locks and badges, nameplates, etc, all other chrome should be BMF.

[spad007]

if you clear over silver then you might get a pewter look .

it some how changes the depth of the color.

I used silver or chrome paint with clear over to

fix plastic bumpers on a Dodge Caravan.

[rickd13]

Thanks for the advice so far. I am definitely going to try the Bare Metal Foil. Keep the tips coming. Im trying to learn as much as possible.

[DRG]

I'm one that used to paint the tril with chrome silver paint also. It looked good to me.

When these guys first started busted my bubble I thought, hey, it's my model and I think it looks good.

Truth be told I was afraid to try something new.

But I did and I am glad they busted my bubble over it.

It makes a world of difference and isn't really that hard to work with.

Try it, be patient, use a sharp #11 blade to trim with and marvel at the difference.

[rickd13]

I'm one that used to paint the tril with chrome silver paint also. It looked good to me.

When these guys first started busted my bubble I thought, hey, it's my model and I think it looks good.

Truth be told I was afraid to try something new.

But I did and I am glad they busted my bubble over it.

It makes a world of difference and isn't really that hard to work with.

Try it, be patient, use a sharp #11 blade to trim with and marvel at the difference.

Thank you for the help. I need all the advice I can get at this time.