rickd13

It looks nice.

Awesome, That is my favorite color for that year Charger. It is also my favorite body style for the Charger. That color is called Citron Yella. I built that same kit in the exact color with the black vinyl roof just like yours.

Thanks for response. Your car looks great.

Where did you get the different hood for the car? I have been wanting to do this kit also, but I wanted a hood like the one you used and I know that the Revell GTX kit comes with a different hood.

I am using Tamiya lacquer spray paint out of the can (Black TS-14). I was wondering how much time do you wait between coats? Do you wet sand between coats? If you do not wet sand between coats, how do you handle any imperfections in the paint before you apply the final coat?

It looks great. Thanks for the reply.

This is exactly what I am worried about. I know I can get the prep work done well, but what I worry about is getting the sanding and polishing right, especially in the tight spots and corners.

I don't use an airbrush. I paint straight from the rattle can. Do you think I can get similar results with the same Tamiya TS-14 right out of the can? Do you wet sand in between coats, and then just sand and polish your final coat?

I am thinking about doing a car in black. I have never done one in black before and I have heard that it is a tricky color to get right. What is the best way to get good results with black? I thought I read that a good way to do black is to use a flat black base coat and then a nice wet look clear over the flat black. Is that the best way to do it?

I love the Mod Top. I have been wanting to do that same exact Juliano car myself.

Try Model Car World Automotive Finishes. http://www.mcwautomotivefinishes.com/paint/catalog.html

I think you may be screwed.

Beautiful.

Looks sharp.

Duplicolor.

It is called dry brush technique. Get a very fine high quality brush and dip it in the paint. Then wipe the paint off the brush with a napkin or rag until most of the paint is off the brush. You then take the brush and go over the lettering. Try to go over the lettering at as much of an angle as you can, like almost parallel to the letters. The black paint should start to show just on the letters because they are slightly raised. You may have to go over the letters a few times to get them as dark as you want.

Clear the car first and then detail paint. The Testor's enamel will work great over the clear and if you make a mistake detailing, the enamel paint will clean of easily with a little Scratch X or any other rubbing compound or car wax. The clear over the enamel will ruin the detail paint.

Those are ridiculous!

He is right. I do this as well.

The best method is dry brush. The car is cleared in lacquer, so I use enamel paint on the brush. It works great because if you mess up with the enamel paint it can easily be cleaned off by using Meguiar's Scratch X without damaging the lacquer clear coat or paint if you did not clear coat. I will take the point off of a wooden tooth pick, so it is dull, and dip it in a little Scratch X and remove the excess paint if it gets on the car around the emblem. It works great.

Love it!

I want to start using plug wires on my engines. I am practicing with some wire and a plastic spoon. I tried CA glue, and that seems to hold the wires (plug and boot) together fine, but it doesn't seem to bond with the plastic spoon. What kind of glue will bond the wire to the plastic of the spoon? Do you use CA glue to bond the wires to the holes drilled in the engine?

I could not agree more. I have ordered replacement parts and decals and they shipped them to me at no cost. Not even shipping costs. I love Revell.

How do you guys put the mock up version of a car together? I know you can't use a permanent glue because you have to take it apart to paint it. So what do you use to hold the mocked up version of the car together?

Exactly.