rickd13

1. 1970 Hemi Cuda with a Mod Top 2. 1971 Hemi Cuda convertible 3. 1970 Dodge Challenger R/T in panther pink with white interior 4. 1970 Boss Mustang or Mach 1 in grabber orange with white interior 5. 2012 Aston Martin Vantage ( want something new and comfortable to drive)

I like Duplicolor better. You can find Duplicolor at AutoZone and Advanced Auto Parts.

I just remembered a great novel that I forgot to include in my list in a previous post. Red Dragon by Thomas Harris (same author as Silence of the Lambs). It is one of the most horrifying book I've ever read. Of course Silence of The Lambs was great also.

The movie is a complete joke. There is no way anyone could turn The Lovely Bones into a good movie. If anyone has any interest in the subject, please read the book and avoid the movie at all costs.

Two of the best books I have ever read are Replay by Ken Grimwood and The Lovely Bones by Alice Sebold. Replay is a novel that makes you ask the question, "What if you could live your life over again? And again? And again?" It is a great book that starts out like it is going to be a light, fun story but turns serious and thought provoking. Everyone I recommended the book to loved it. The Lovely Bones is a novel that is told from the perspective of a 14 year old girl in heaven. It is a heavy, heartbreaking book. I absolutely love the book, but I actually had people who got mad at me for recommending it to them because the book is so heavy. Two great action novels are a Consent To Kill by Vince Flynn and Hard Fall by Ridley Pearson. Both books have great, well developed characters. Hard Fall will give you chills when you realize that the book was written nine years before 9/11. Other books I really liked are 1984 by George Orwell, The Stand by Stephen King, Seabiscuit by Laura Hillenbrand. Degree of Guilt by Richard North Patterson. Dying Breath by Wendy Corsi Staub, and The Fourth K by Mario Puzo (about a fictional fourth Kennedy brother that becomes president), just to name a few.

I take all off the parts off of the trees and trim and sand off the mold lines before I start painting. I tape all the pieces that need to be painted the same color to a big piece of cardboard and then I prime and paint them that way. I also assemble the pieces I can before I start painting ( for example: the engine block)

Dry brush technique. Dip a fine brush in the paint and then wipe it off on a napkin. A little paint stays on the brush. You can then go over the embossed letters very carefully. I like to use enamel paint for this because it dries slow and if you mess it up you can wipe it off with a little rubbing compound on a rag or on the tip of a toothpick to get at the tight areas.

I use Duplicolor sandable primer in the 12oz. can. It is my favorite primer. Then I use Duplicolor Perfect Match premium automtive paint in a black can that has a picture of the hood of a red car on it. It comes in a 8oz. can. I'm fairly sure it is an acrylic lacquer. You will have to use some kind of clear coat over the white base color if you want it to look glossy. You can use the Duplicolor clear. The can looks the same as the paint but the clear does not have a "shaker" ball inside of it. That should work well for you.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=27431&hl=vinyl This is a great way to do a vinyl roof. I just did a white vinyl roof on a 1970 Dodge Super Bee using this method and it came out great.

The piece I am working on is a tail light section of a 1970 Dodge Super Bee. The whole piece is chrome. There is a section in the middle that has the letters DODGE on it and a little bee emblem. That area is supposed to have a dull aluminum look and the Dodge letters are supposed to be black like on the 1:1 car. Can I mask the rest of the piece off and spray Duplicolor spray paint right over that chrome area to get that dull aluminum look or do I have to remove the chrome coating from that area first in order for the spray paint to stick?

No. Actually I want to remove the chrome from the letters also because they need to be painted black.

Does anyone know how to or have a technique to strip chrome off of part of a piece? For example I want to strip the chrome off of the name plate section of a chrome tail light piece. I do not want to strip the chrome off the perimeter of the piece or around the individual tail lights. Is sanding my only option? If sanding is my only option, how could I preserve the raised lettering and still remove the chrome on and around the little raised letters?

Awesome!

I would definitely do it after the clear coat. I got the best tip ever from this forum. If you paint the details after the clear coat it will make it easier to wipe off the paint if you mess up and get paint where you do not want it. The tip I learned from this forum that has been invaluable to me is if you get paint where you do not want it, use wax or a rubbing compound (I use Scratch X) to wipe away the mistake. It works great and it doesn't screw up your paint job.

Can anyone give me some advice about masking off the body of the car so I can spray for a vinyl roof? What do you use to mask all the little nooks around the rear windshield? Bare metal foil? It seems almost every time I try to do a vinal top it comes out sloppy. The car I'm doing (1970 Superbird) already has a vinyl top look molded on the car, so I'm not looking for advice on how to get a vinyl top look. I just need a good technique on how to mask.

I apply the decal with water and Micro Sol and I gently try to work the decal into the panel line with a smal soft paint brush dipped in Micro Sol and then I let it dry. After it dries, I apply some Micro Sol over the panel line so it softens up in that spot and then I very carefully cut it with a #11 blade.

That is hilarious.

Does anyone know the story with the Tamiya spray paint, in particular, the TS line? My local hobby store has not received any new Tamiya spray paint in over four months. I really love their TS-29 semi-gloss black. It is perfect for interiors. Does anyone have any suggestions on where I can purchase Tamiya TS-29? Do they even make it anymore? I already checked ebay.

Actually, I figured out a good way to do it on my own. I put red enamel paint on the the car and set the part in it. When the paint dried the part was set perfectly.

Is there a way to glue or attach two painted parts together without scraping off the paint or damaging the paint? I need to glue or attach the tail light lens to the car and I painted the inside of the clear lens red. If I scrape off the paint it will show through to the outside of the lens when it is attached. I also need to attach a brake light strip to the back of the car that has the same issue. Any suggestions?

Thank you for the advice. It was exactly what I was looking for.

I looked at other threads on here about filler, but I'm not sure I understand. What is CA filler? The problem I have is, when I scribbed the panel lines the knife slipped and made scratches. How should I handle these? Can I just put a coat of liquid cement over them and wait until it dries and then sand them? Another question I have is, how do you fill the seems you get when you glue two pieces together, like the seem created by gluing the front and back of a seat together?

Thanks guys.

Does anyone have any suggestions on a brand of spray paint in a rattle can that would replicate an aluminum finish?

What line of Krylon paint do you use? Fusion or the Indoor/Outdoor line? What kind of primer do you use if you use any?